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Severna Park, Maryland Posts: 3457
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Collins, NY Posts: 3138
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drywall / cement board joint
[#2] Posted: 04/16/2012 - 06:37:17 AM |  | |
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The same way you handled the other drywall to Hardie joints, except you may want to use a corner trowel.
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Tom
http://clearcreekhomeinspection.com/
Life is tough enough as it is, it's tougher when your stupid. Don't do stupid things. Dr Joe Lstiburek |
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Oswego, NY Posts: 1735
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Severna Park, Maryland Posts: 3457
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Collins, NY Posts: 3138
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drywall / cement board joint
[#5] Posted: 04/16/2012 - 12:59:07 PM |  | |
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Quote: Originally posted by gtblumQuote: Originally posted by Tom Raymond
The same way you handled the other drywall to Hardie joints, except you may want to use a corner trowel.
If you're going to use a corner trowel, close the door so your friends won't see you with it.
Blum, that reminds me of a joke my mother told me when I was a teenager.
What do fat girls and mopeds have in common?
They're both fun to ride until your friends see you on one!
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Tom
http://clearcreekhomeinspection.com/
Life is tough enough as it is, it's tougher when your stupid. Don't do stupid things. Dr Joe Lstiburek |
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Chicago, IL Posts: 9501
Joined: Dec, 2003
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drywall / cement board joint
[#6] Posted: 04/16/2012 - 3:56:03 PM |  | |
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Durabond 90. Mud one side of the corner, let it dry, then mud the other side. It's easier for beginners that way; doing them both at once isn't hard, but it's a little tricky for first timers.
I have a corner trowel hidden somewhere......
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Kurt in Chicago
"If I smell it, it goes in the report".............Phillip Smith...2012
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Friday Harbor, WA Posts: 494
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drywall / cement board joint
[#7] Posted: 04/16/2012 - 4:59:27 PM |  | |
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Doesn't matter what tools you use inside the house, as long as your friends see you outside washing your bazooka.
Personally, I don't know that I'd bother running tape down from the ceiling onto the backerboard walls. I'd rather stick tile to clean backerboard than drywall mud.
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Chicago, IL Posts: 9501
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drywall / cement board joint
[#8] Posted: 04/16/2012 - 5:02:35 PM |  | |
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Or, Dave's way. it's easier and works great.
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Kurt in Chicago
"If I smell it, it goes in the report".............Phillip Smith...2012
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Oswego, NY Posts: 1735
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Friday Harbor, WA Posts: 494
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drywall / cement board joint
[#10] Posted: 04/16/2012 - 8:18:42 PM |  | |
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If my mother heard me tell that joke, she'd beat me.
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Severna Park, Maryland Posts: 3457
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Oswego, NY Posts: 1735
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drywall / cement board joint
[#12] Posted: 04/17/2012 - 05:01:28 AM |  | |
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Not bad. If you already bought metal corner bead for the outsides, take it back and get a roll of Strait Flex corner tape. It's a thick perforated paper tape made for outside corners. It's a little pricey but it's worth it.
If you smack a corner later on, you end up with a dent to fix instead of a wad of bent metal that's never going back where it was.
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I'm Gary Blum and I approve this message
www.gtbinspectionservices.com |
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Severna Park, Maryland Posts: 3457
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drywall / cement board joint
[#13] Posted: 04/17/2012 - 05:43:46 AM |  | |
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Metal bead already there...too late. Maybe next time.
Sanding is going well. I'm using flexible blocks to dress the corners and rough edges first. Then I'll switch to 220 grid style and smooth out the fields and blend everything in.
I thought about running a fine bead of paintable caulk down the inside corners for a fine smoothing touch. Anyone ever done this?
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John Dirks Jr - Arundel Home Inspection LLC - MD license: 29827 Maryland Home Inspectors - Maryland Home Inspection - Maryland Radon Testing - Baltimore County Rental Inspection
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Severna Park, Maryland Posts: 3457
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Olathe, KS Posts: 252
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drywall / cement board joint
[#15] Posted: 04/17/2012 - 08:01:26 AM |  | |
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I stopped my backer board short from the ceiling about 1/4", and running tile up to about 1/8" from the ceiling sheetrock, and using color matched caulking at the ceiling/tile joint to finish it off. It's made by the grout manufacturer.
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Kevin Wattenbarger Allied Home Inspections, Inc. Olathe, KS "Helping You Understand Your Home's Health" www.AlliedHomeInspections.com www.911owned.com |
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Eureka, CA Posts: 444
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drywall / cement board joint
[#16] Posted: 04/20/2012 - 09:30:53 AM |  | |
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I bought all my doors as solid seconds. Made all my jams. All the trim for my windows from rough opening to finish. Made all my moldings, which ended up being 3 piece. Made my own cabinets and counters excluding doors and drawers. Measured everything like 6 times. Bla, bla, bla. People come by and see it say, "Nice, have any beer".
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| Denny Waters |
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Lafayette, Louisiana Posts: 3840
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drywall / cement board joint
[#17] Posted: 04/20/2012 - 11:19:49 AM |  | |
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Quote: Originally posted by John Dirks JrThis is the first time I've done an entire room. I used a corner trowel to set the tape but went to a 12" knife for the rest. Place in corner and spread outwards. I used the following video as a tutorial. I like the goal of minimal sanding. Knocking down ridges before the mud totally sets seems helpful. http://www.youtube.com/v/a1QSVX7SiCoDownload Attachment: P1240714.JPG1328.38?KB Download Attachment: P1240715.JPG1044.19?KB Download Attachment: P1240716.JPG1550.49?KB Download Attachment: P1240717.JPG1507.1?KB
Is it common practice to put that many screws in the drywall?
Marc
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"If Guam gets too overpopulated, it might tip over." Congressman Hank Johnson (D) GA |
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indy, IN Posts: 291
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drywall / cement board joint
[#18] Posted: 04/20/2012 - 2:36:34 PM |  | |
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[/quote]
Is it common practice to put that many screws in the drywall?
Marc [/quote]
our small remodel co. typically field screws @ 12" oc and butt joints @ 8". So, yes?
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Severna Park, Maryland Posts: 3457
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drywall / cement board joint
[#19] Posted: 04/21/2012 - 12:43:40 AM |  | |
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Whoever suggested using clothesline rope for tile spacers, thanks. It's a great idea. I'm using 3/16 nylon and it blows those little tile spacers out of the water. I cut the rope sections to about 8". I leave the bottom part protruding to make it easy to pull them out.
In other news, we had to deal with defective tub issues and some crafty thinking about the best way to level the floor. I'll be using a different size notched trowel in various areas under the hardie boards. I'll check again after that and might scratch in a few patches with thinset and a trowel before setting floor tiles.
Also, I realized too late that my tub alcove rough opening is 60 1/2" which is 1/4" too big. This posed problems with tile overlap at the tub lip. Rather than rip everything back out I decided to use a 1/2" notched trowel to spread thinset for the wall tiles. The added thickness makes up the difference just about perfect. When the mortar mix is just right, working with the heavy application is not too cumbersome.
Checkout the warped tub skirt. Also, the skirt hit the floor and the feet were still 1/4" off the floor. F'ed up! Download Attachment: P1240723.JPG 1487.91 KB
Playing with various tile layouts. Download Attachment: P1240725.JPG 958.98 KB
You can see the difference in the original floor mortar bed as much as 1/2" from one end to the other. Download Attachment: P1240729.JPG 1557.98 KB
Taped in and setting tile. Download Attachment: P1240743.JPG 1184.41 KB
Mortar bed with 1/2" notched trowel. Download Attachment: P1240746.JPG 1094.38 KB
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John Dirks Jr - Arundel Home Inspection LLC - MD license: 29827 Maryland Home Inspectors - Maryland Home Inspection - Maryland Radon Testing - Baltimore County Rental Inspection
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Rochester, New York Posts: 4113
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drywall / cement board joint
[#20] Posted: 04/21/2012 - 04:25:44 AM |  | |
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No water-proofing behind the enclosure tile?
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Chad Fabry StructureSmart Home Inspection Rochester, NY www.structuresmart.com
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Severna Park, Maryland Posts: 3457
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Oswego, NY Posts: 1735
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Chicago, IL Posts: 9501
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drywall / cement board joint
[#23] Posted: 04/21/2012 - 1:01:12 PM |  | |
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If you're not running a steam generator, you don't need waterproofing under the tile. If it's a steamer, you gotta have it.
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Kurt in Chicago
"If I smell it, it goes in the report".............Phillip Smith...2012
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