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Deck flashing clarification

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[#1] Posted: 02/18/2009 - 7:46:20 PM
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The deck is attached by lag bolt directly into the wood siding. Flashing is missing, however, shouldn't that area of siding be removed then proper flashing installed?
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Michael Carson
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Deck flashing clarification
[#2] Posted: 02/18/2009 - 8:02:36 PM
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With the siding acting as the sheathing, I would say no. I would like to see the ledger slightly shimmed out from the siding with some washers so water can not get trapped up against the siding. Or a free standing deck would be perfect in this case.

I've bounced back and forth on this same question when it comes to plywood siding. I can't say I've ever seen any authoritative source showing exactly what is allowed/ proper. I haven't checked the APA website lately though.....

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Deck flashing clarification
[#3] Posted: 02/18/2009 - 8:06:39 PM
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There's no way to flash that properly without having the top side of the flashing tucked behind the siding. From there, it should extend down, then across the ledger board, and then lip down. So yeah, it's wrong as built and it's rot waiting to happen behind the ledger.
I'm sure you know there are other wrong things visible in that pic. But since you didn't ask about them, I won't get into that!

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Deck flashing clarification
[#4] Posted: 02/18/2009 - 9:14:17 PM
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Couple of Diagrams that should help.

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Deck flashing clarification
[#5] Posted: 02/18/2009 - 10:03:37 PM
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Love the "modified" hanger at the end joist! And please tell me those aren't drywall screws at the balusters. With that type of siding, the "spaced" ledger (Mike's 2nd photo) would be the easiest fix. Even then, I'd be glomping caulk in and around the holes before the lag bolts went in. That's assuming the deck is worth saving, which judging by the other stuff is probably too big an assumption.
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Deck flashing clarification
[#6] Posted: 02/19/2009 - 03:10:19 AM
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Thank you for the info, I could not find anything definitive regarding the wood siding other than the diagrams. I'll say that the siding should be removed and flashing installed. Yes, the joist is modified and missing nails, and yep those are drywall screws, footing problems. Lets go over what else is wrong so when someone else runs a search for this on our site like I did there will be other information.
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Deck flashing clarification
[#7] Posted: 02/19/2009 - 05:18:30 AM
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Mike,

I like that diagram.

How often do you actually see the exterior sheathing actually run down over the band? So often it is just the band or a sheathing scab over the band for a filler.

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Deck flashing clarification
[#8] Posted: 02/19/2009 - 07:12:50 AM
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Quote: Originally posted by hausdok


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Mike,

Why does this pict show you can use screws to attach the ledger? What type of screws (versus bolts)?

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Deck flashing clarification
[#9] Posted: 02/19/2009 - 07:22:44 AM
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Lag screws.
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Deck flashing clarification
[#10] Posted: 02/19/2009 - 09:08:26 AM
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Quote: Originally posted by Jerry Simon

Mike,

Why does this pict show you can use screws to attach the ledger? What type of screws (versus bolts)?
Hi Jerry,

I don't know what was in the mind of the person that drew that diagram. If memory serves, I got it by going to the APA site and then following some links there to another site called "Build A Better Home" or something like that. It's possible that "screws" refers to some of the new self-drilling super-strong ledger screws that some manufacturers brought onto the market a few years ago; those are installed with an impact driver, have a self-drilling head that eliminates the need for pilot holes and they're supposed to be stronger than lag bolts and have better holding power.

For those of you that came to inspections from the electrical, HVAC, plumbing or other trades, if you've never actually "built" anything, you might spend some time on this site. You can get a free downloadable deck construction guide there or simply click on the "Building 101" tab and you'll learn a lot.

Since T1-11 is structural sheathing, some folks don't like to cut through it to install a ledger. That makes sense because, if you cut it in the wrong place, you end up leaving the bottom edge unsupported. If one cuts through this stuff to install a ledger it's necessary to make the cut below the bottom of the sole plate, preferably a couple of inches below the top of the rim, so the sheathing can be tied into the rim and maintain strength against racking.

Some folks that install on the face of the T1-11 will insist that the slots will allow it to drain without trapping water. It seems to work most of the time but not all the time and it's those 'not all of the time' situations that we have to be concerned with so I think spacers behind that ledger would have been an excellent idea.

Either of those diagrams will work with T1-11 siding by cutting away a section of the T1-11 in order to install a ledger; just ensure that if you use the second drawing - the one with the back flashing only - that you use spacers so that water can't get trapped behind the ledger and ensure that your flashing is against the studs and behind the WRB behind the T11 and extends at least six inches up the face of the studs. This means you need to free the bottom of the panel along the entire rim and once the flashing is in it needs to be re-secured through the flashings. If you omit the spacers like in th first photo, make sure that you use a head flashing on top of the ledger, along with the back flashing, to keep water out.

For spacers, you can dink around with coating little pieces of wood with a preservative or cutting blocks from pressure-treated wood or trying to line up a bunch of flat washers, but a better solution is the Deck2Wall Spacer. These things are cool; you pre-drill pilot holes in the ledger and rim, line up the spacers on the backside and screw them to the ledger. Then it's easy for one guy working alone to attach the ledger without the frustration of dinking around with blocks and washers.

Jeremy, I see T1-11 covering rims all the time without joints. It all depends on whether the builder planned it out carefully first and purchased longer 9 or 10 ft. panels that can extend over the rim without the need to install Z-flashings.

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Deck flashing clarification
[#11] Posted: 02/19/2009 - 11:53:47 AM
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Approved screw attachment.

Download Attachment: F-DECKCODE07.pdf
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Darren
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Deck flashing clarification
[#12] Posted: 02/19/2009 - 5:59:06 PM
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Quote: I see T1-11 covering rims all the time without joints. It all depends on whether the builder planned it out carefully first and purchased longer 9 or 10 ft. panels that can extend over the rim without the need to install Z-flashings.


I'm talking about regular half inch ext. sheath behind the siding. More times than not, I see a filler applied to the band instead of longer material. I'm curious if everyone else is seeing simular method. New construction of course.

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Deck flashing clarification
[#13] Posted: 02/19/2009 - 6:03:33 PM
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Hi,

OK, well now I understand. We see it done all the time because it's part of building seismic resistant structures.

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Deck flashing clarification
[#14] Posted: 03/04/2009 - 09:27:32 AM
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Quote: Originally posted by hausdok

Couple of Diagrams that should help.

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Click to View

12.97 KB

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike




These pics are worth a thousand words. Thanks for sharing.

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Deck flashing clarification
[#15] Posted: 03/04/2009 - 3:28:19 PM
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How wide are the spaces between those ballusters? Looks like a mile.
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Deck flashing clarification
[#16] Posted: 03/04/2009 - 5:03:28 PM
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I make it at exactly 5 inches.

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Deck flashing clarification
[#17] Posted: 03/04/2009 - 8:07:41 PM
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Having just used them in a report, I happen to know that the diagrams came from the APA's document on Flashing details for Walls & Windows.



Download Attachment: APA Flashing Detaiols for Walls & Windows.pdf
524.06 KB

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Deck flashing clarification
[#18] Posted: 03/04/2009 - 8:50:12 PM
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Yep,

My memory served, it did come from a Build a Better Home document.

Guess I'm not totally brain hindered yet.

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Deck flashing clarification
[#19] Posted: 03/05/2009 - 05:21:42 AM
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I think that the lag bolts/screws should be staggered to help prevent the ledger from splitting.
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Deck flashing clarification
[#20] Posted: 03/05/2009 - 07:41:40 AM
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Quote: Originally posted by Steven Hockstein

I think that the lag bolts/screws should be staggered to help prevent the ledger from splitting.


Steve,

Adopted in 2007 IRC supplement, the bolts/lag screws need to be staggered.
There is also a bolt 'schedule'.

It's not very good (scanner down) but here's a photo of the handout I got at a DCA seminar.

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Deck flashing clarification
[#21] Posted: 03/05/2009 - 1:35:38 PM
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In case anyone wants the ledger board requirements, here is an article about this subject:

http://www.deckmagazine.com/pd...ledg.pdf

Steven C. Hockstein, AIA
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