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  1. Today
  2. I dragged this old post out of the trash heap. Your model is a higher btu/hr rating and different serial but I think this post may help guide you a little in deciding whether to trash your Airco or keep it. The response to delislej is by Howard Pike, who has posted here many times and whom I regard as the member most familiar with Airco heaters.
  3. I have an Airco AH-130 in the house I as of late purchased in Edmonton, AB. The heater tech I had do the assessment says the warmth exchanger is rusting(though no clear openings) and we ought to supplant the heater. Presently it is old, and presumably goes back to development in 1975. In any case, actually I'd want to keep this thing, as I don't believe the new high productivity models to last more that 10 years, and with issues at that. I've approached a few spots for a statement to supplant the warmth exchanger, and am informed that parts aren't accessible. What I'm thinking about is whether that is truly valid, or on the off chance that they simply need to sell me another heater. Anybody ready to let me know whether there is a spot to get parts for these things?
  4. Endorsed flex couplings utilized underground satisfy a particular ASTM guideline to withstand earth loads/shear. The just one I know about is protected (a tempered steel band) and has formed in bushings.
  5. Also, there's something seriously wrong with this statement. Why are they digging out the center after having placed the perimeter?
  6. Why not just hire a stump grinder to grind out the bulk of the stumps? Then you can clean up whatever remains with a little baby excavator.
  7. Yesterday
  8. The stumps have to go. Well, you could leave them in and let someone else deal with them later. They will rot and it will settle. I don't think I would be worried about termites. You can eradicate them.
  9. The issue isn't the termites, it's that the stumps will eventually decay. When they do, something, somewhere beneath the home will lose the support they once provided. Get the stumps out...by hand if necessary. I've done it before.
  10. Hi We are building a new home. Trees were taken down 4 years ago. After pouring the foundation, while digging out the center, they came across two tree stumps they did not hit while pouring the foundation. What is the best way to deal with this so we do not run the risk of termites in the future? The walls are two high to get a piece of equipment over to try to dig it out plus they don’t want to take a chance of damaging the integrity of the walls. Thank you, Katie
  11. The panel is a 200 amp, which in '92 allowed 40 breaker poles. The tandem is not allowed in that panel. The discoloration looks more like some type of chemical contamination than heat damage, but still may be a concern. There is some obvious paint overspray. I don't call out Challenger panels just because of their brand, particularly the newer ones like in your photo. There are many examples online of some failures of these panels. I have a pretty extensive photo library of failures on ITE, Siemens, Square D, Cutler Hammer, and others. The Square D breakers are not listed for use in that panel. AFCI breakers were not available in '92, so there really is no "listed" AFCI breaker for that panel that I know of......possibly Siemens, but doubtful. I think providing the AFCI protection is a positive safety upgrade that outweighs the non listed breaker issue.
  12. I'm wondering what's everyone's take on Challenger panels. I've read up on some known issues with them but not to the extent of FPE Stab Loks and such. The issues with Challenger panels don't seem as clear. The panel I inspected today was from a 1992 built home used mostly Westinghouse breakers. It did have a tandem breaker installed and Square D homeline AFCIs. The manufacturers label was missing so I could not determine the circuit total limit of the panel or get any other info. I also noticed some discoloration where the main breaker connects to the hot bus bar that I'm concerned about. I've attached a few pictures of the panel. What do you all report if anything about Challenger panels? Are there certain breakers or issues to look out for? Thanks for the help, Kiel
  13. Last week
  14. I think your input is always good. Just a difference of opinion between two different entities! thanks for making all of us think.
  15. I think your opinion is fair. We went back and forth for quite some time on whether to write the article because it's a topic that I'd label "risk management adjacent." What ultimately made us decide to do it was 1) the frequency with which inspectors ask us about it and 2) the number of inspectors who think that incorporating can replace other risk management tools, like insurance. Our goal with the article was for it to be an introduction to the subject that helped start inspectors in the right direction with the guidance to do as you suggest: talk to your attorney and CPA to find the best fit. Hence the push for attorney and CPA calls throughout and in the final paragraphs: "Choosing an entity type for your home inspection business can be difficult. However, with the right understanding, you, your attorney, and your accountant can make the right choice for your business. "Whatever you decide, be sure to protect your company with E&O and GL insurance. To get coverage with us, take 10 minutes to xxxx (edit) for a no-obligation quote." As always, thanks for the feedback!
  16. there are not enough words to express how disappointed I am with this article. I really think you are out of your lane of expertise and no amount of anecdotal information will make it valid information. The only exception is the paragraph where you quote Joe Ferry. He is an atty and he is knowledgeable about the subtleties of legal advice. Insurance companies and home inspectors are generally not lawyers. My strong opinion is this: Go to your attorney and/or tax person and get legitimate advice; not legal zoom and "make money now blogs"
  17. Hi, The Inspector's Journal Readers! This is Aubri from InspectorPro Insurance. The following is an excerpt from our article on choosing an entity type for your inspection business. We actually received quite a few requests to do an article on this topic, so hopefully this can be of some help! Enjoy! Aubri *************** Whether you’re just now entering the home inspection industry or have been an inspector for years, establishing and maintaining your own business is no small feat. One of the most common questions we receive from new or growing inspection companies is what type of business entity they should create. In this article, we hope to help you decide which entity type is right for your inspection company by sharing insights from attorneys, accountants, and your fellow home inspectors. Home Inspection Entity Types: A Quick Comparison There are three major types of business entities that home inspectors may consider: sole proprietorships, corporations (C-Corps or S-Corps), and limited liability companies (LLCs). Important Considerations When choosing which entity type is right for your business, the home inspectors we interviewed recommend the following considerations: Your growth plans. Which entity type you choose impacts ownership, income distribution, and taxation, and of each of these factors can impact your growth potential. Thus, knowing where you’d like your home inspection company to be in the future will likely impact which entity type you choose. For example, James Szczesny of 4 Seasons Home Inspections in New Mexico has been a sole proprietorship, a limited liability company (LLC), and a corporation. With his certified public accountant (CPA), Szczesny’s strategy has been to adapt his business entity type as his company grows. As he’s generated more income, Szczesny has been more equipped to invest in the entity types that cost more to establish but provide larger tax breaks. Alternatively, Nick Calero of CR Pro Home Inspections in Florida planned to start his inspection business as a one-man operation. If things went well, Calero intended to incorporate. After discussing his plans with multiple attorneys, Calero decided to begin his inspection career by creating an LLC. “It all came down to what our future goals were going to be, how large we wanted to make the company, and…the steps that it would take to get there,” Calero said. “We felt that, as a small, one-person show, [an LLC] would be the best option for us [starting out].” [READ MORE]
  18. Thanks Jim. I know NHIE is big on distractors and it never hurts to be reminded of that. There was a second half of my question. I know some of the indicators for identifying structural masonry. With anchored, I would assume you should not be able to physically see any indicators of the anchors themselves. I did some research on it and watched a few videos on the building process after I got to this question. Identifying what is NOT there, is something that I need to spend more time on. I appreciate the difference between the comprehensive NHIE text book versus the AHIT course book. It makes your thought process become more in depth as opposed to just giving you the answers like AHIT. I still cannot knock the AHIT course. I understand that it doesn't do a great job in preparing you to just hit the road or start getting calls. It did however, give me a great overview of what I am getting into. I know exactly what I need to work on and get familiar with (which is a lot). I know that I will not have a problem passing the IL state exam and that it is just the tip of the iceberg. I am trying to take all of the info from this site and as many other resources I can get my hands on to complete practice inspections. I am also gaining confidence in my ability to ask meaningful questions when I find a few ride-alongs. Thanks again.
  19. That does not look like Hardie Mike...
  20. the brown sticky gook: water soluble. washes away with ammonia. it is rat or mouse pee. the order is musk like almost similar to tar like (bitumen like smell). the water in the urine has evaporated leaving behind the salts and acids of a rodent pee.... it shows up commonly on warm pipes, warm tanks, such as water heaters, etc... the warm pipes evaporate the water quickly and the rodents like the warmth................get some rat traps!
  21. Sorry, I don't know of such a resource. Have you asked a friendly heating tech to just cut out the split section and braze in a new piece of copper?
  22. So, with the NHIE, it helps to keep in mind that every question should have one undeniably correct answer and three distractors. The undeniably correct answer might not be a term or concept that you would use, but it will have at lease one reference source to back it up - that's almost always the building code or an industry guideline or best-practice guide. The distractors are designed to sound plausible to those who lack the knowledge that the question is designed to test. Your best strategy for taking this test is to forget about what *you* would call this wall, but choose the answer that seems to be the "most" correct. In this question, you can rule out structural masonry right away because all you can see are stretchers, no headers. While it's conceivable that a structural masonry wall *might* be built like this, it's very unlikely. The second choice, "adhered brick" is a possibility, but it's less likely than the next one, "anchored masonry," which is by far the most likely candidate. I have no idea what "supported brick" is supposed to be. I suspect its something that the question writer just made up. Bottom line: I think it's a fair question. Someone who really knows brick will have no trouble getting the right answer. Someone who doesn't might not get it.
  23. I'm getting the feeling it's LP and not Hardie plank. 🐑
  24. I totally agree with Les. Keep it simple. Your client may be an archeologist.... he doesn't get the techno-babble. "Several anomalies were noted at the electrical installation. We recommend consulting a licensed master electrician to further evaluate the electrical panels/subpanels and perform all necessary corrective action to ensure a safe and efficient installation." That's it. Maybe a couple of pics
  25. I see this every winter. Usually not too much snow in the attic, except for the other day when, after quite a blizzard, i found about 2 cubic feet of snow sitting in the soffit area. Probably a missing flashing at the exterior. The snow melts and evaporates rather quickly in most cases and presents no real problem.
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