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  1. Today
  2. Does anybody have a pic of what Hardie Board looks like?
  3. Gee Jim, looks a bit dangerous with that glass behind it. Or am I biting on a joke?
  4. Yesterday
  5. It may have been accepted at the time, but is a funky mess by the standards of today. Best to recommend a new breaker panel, and an electrician might want to install a new meter housing. Then the power company may want the weather heads upgraded to a single mast, and in the case of two owners, this could escalate into a big headache for a new home buyer. So don't go too easy on something like this, which was just barely adequate to start with.
  6. I've seen a number of them. They were semi popular in Central NY.
  7. Hey your right my bad it’s not the same exact panel I’m on the other side of the duplex with this photo , but okay makes sense the bare copper is the neutral and the equipment grounding conductor is bonded to the neutral at the meter instead of the panel
  8. No, this is a different panel. The one you posted before had all different breakers. Like Marc said, the big bare copper wire is the incoming neutral. What's missing is a grounding electrode conductor.
  9. Last week
  10. The bare copper coming in alongside the two utility hot wires is the neutral. It's supposed to be insulated, not bare. The equipment grounding conductor doesn't come in with the utility wires, rather, they begin at the panel neutral bar and accompany each circuit. The 240 volt dryer circuit seems to be the only 240 circuit in the house.
  11. This spiral stair was so unusual yet so impractical I did not mention it in my report. Made from schoolhouse desktops and a steel pole. Not much of a landing tho. Dig it. (I did not test it myself)
  12. I posted a pic awhile back of this panel without the cover taken off. Could someone help explain a few things for me, this is the main panel, there are two hot conductors coming in from the back and looks like a 6 gauge bare copper coming in that connects to the neutral bus. That bare copper wire I thought was the equipment grounding conductor but where’s the neutral? Is the copper wire the neutral but then we’re is there equipment grounding conductor? The bigger wire dropping straight down from the top is just to the dryer, and its a main lug only panel so no main disconnect, fewer than 6 movements to disconnect , and on the sec there’s just two sets bc it’s a duplex.
  13. Thanks for the reply. My search of Mike Holt etc shows it as being not available, and as such, antiquated. Google search shows some General switch breakers for sale on ebay. Home built in 1987.
  14. Then I'm in good company. I've told several clients to keep their old equipment because it will outlast anything they might replace it with. On a side note, how many stamps does it take to mail a furnace?
  15. Well my hobby is building ship model kits.
  16. I have the same problem on several of my Anderson narroline window. I replaced the window sills with PVC board. Just uploaded a video to You Tube. Search for “replace rotted Anderson Window sills.
  17. I don't recall ever hearing of them.
  18. I generally agree with you & Chad, but here's my thought process: Zip codes started in 1963, and postal zones (one or two digit codes) go back to 1943. This one has neither, but it certainly doesn't pre-date 1943, so the absence of a code doesn't necessarily date it. (I've found the presence of a zip code or postal zone to be good at dating a furnace, but the absence of one doesn't mean much. It could be that they didn't feel the need to add a zip code (or postal zone) since they weren't mailing it. . . ) I agree about the chrome and the likelihood of it being from the '50s, but the sticking point is that this was a gas furnace from the get-go - it wasn't converted from oil, and there's only a small chance that this house had gas service in the '50s. Portland didn't have any natural gas until 1956, and even then, it was quite rare until the '60s. (We had manufactured gas much earlier, but that was long gone by the '50s.) So the '50s is possible, but unlikely. The data plate states 66% efficiency (90/135), which is probably what it gets when everything is perfectly balanced, it gets a rolling start, and it has a tailwind behind it. One of my partners used to do combustion analysis on these things and he said that, once tuned up properly (which wasn't particularly difficult), they could deliver about 65% efficiency pretty reliably. I was able to get a good view of the burner and the outside of the drum-style heat exchanger, both of which looked great. In the report I observed that the furnace is old and inefficient, but paid for and that it would probably outlast several If anyone's interested, I included this paragraph in the report:
  19. Have not seen this brand before. General switch co. Is it antiquated?
  20. If only it were so simple. The rule you're quoting is for masonry chimneys that serve fireplaces. Alas, gas B-vents don't follow the rules for "chimneys." Their minimum height above the roof depends on the slope of the roof and the diameter of the vent. Maybe, or maybe not. There's quite a bit of leeway when you actually do the calculations.
  21. One of the first jobs I used the FLIR C3 was a 1946 Cape with multiple additions... through the fifties and sixties.. The LA said.. "you're gonna love this one... it's all electric heat.. some is in the floor and some in the ceiling and I have no idea which is which.. " The C3 solved it easily and made a huge impression on those present...
  22. Well... chimney (AKA 'vent') terminations should be 3' above where they leave the roof and 2' above anything within 10' of the roof... the problem here is the water heater vent is simply too short..even if it was by itself.. . it's also probably an over-sized chimney now that the furnace was removed from it... It's apparently an 'orphaned' water heater and that can make the water heater draft poorer and exacerbate the blah blah blah blah blah.. and lead to corrosion.. If the WH is older, I'd say replace WH with direct-vent and remove the old metal chimney...it's rusting pretty good .. Does that make sense? (Especially the blah blah blah)? As for the water heater exhaust getting entrained into the furnace intake there.. I doubt it but I guess it's possible..
  23. Ok, cleaver. Thanks for pointing that out, otherwise I would have gone the rest of my life wondering about it.
  24. Les

    Holland Furnace

    It was prior to 1958, ala the lack of zip code. Also, I have inspected many of these and they were about 33 1/3% efficient and lasted forever. Made in Holland Michigan down by the lake and Howard Miller clock company. Chad is correct about the use of chrome. The company got started as a furnace manufacturer and morphed into a furnace cleaning company using giant vacuum trucks. http://www.hollandprofessionalclub.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/2017-March-Rob-Sligh-The-Rise-and-Fall-of-Holland-Furnace-Company.pdf there are dozens of stories about the company and most are about how the company influenced commerce and fraudulent business stuff.
  25. well, at least it was not crestfallen.
  26. It's humor. It is the crest.
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