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  2. Annotated bibliography writing includes a lot of work. You have to find relevant sources, read them, and make an annotation for each one. Preparing a worthy paper calls for the application of strong analytical and writing skills. If this assignment is challenging for you, turn to professional writers to buy an annotated bibliography https://gold-essays.com/annotated-bibliography-writing.html
  3. Yesterday
  4. I had the same problem as the poster: dead outlet on a GFI circuit. It happened to be an outlet in the master bath. The nearest GFI was in the guest bath but it had never tripped and did not seem to affect the master bath outlets at all. So I called in my "fix anything handyman." After checking various things, he took the cover off the master bath outlet. Lo! The hot wire had separated from the outlet fixture. That's where the circuit break was. It took fifteen years for that to happen but it was clearly the result of the wire not having been properly tightened when the house was built. As it turns out, the guest bath GFI does also control the master bath. Moral of the story: when the obvious answers are wrong, dig deeper. Don't assume everybody did their job correctly. Assume someone screwed up.
  5. Last week
  6. It finally got cold enough to warrant turning on the furnace last night. The shutter was set pretty much to the minimum opening so I opened it up a little more. I've I added a picture of the shutter and another video of the flame to the gallery above. It is definitely more blue in person though. The camera seems to have a hard time picking up that color while the yellow\white\orange are very bright. I'd be interested to see if anyone has a really "blue" flame on an old furnace like this though. Seems to be working great again this year. As expected.
  7. Yeah, that's what comes out when you inhale too many hydrocarbons. Just joking.
  8. Hair spray, cooking oils, candles, floor waxes, many foams, plastics and, 'rubbers' vinyl upholstery and shower curtains, kayaks, carpet, carpet pad, olympic bumper plates, margarine, shirts from Wal Mart.
  9. You really shouldn't clean a flame sensor with anything rougher than an emery cloth or a scotch brite pad. How short are the short cycles?
  10. I have a furnace that is doing a short cycle. I took the flame sensor and cleaned it with a pair of plyer, it has not corrected the issue, wonder if I was too rough with the sensor and need to replace it now. Are they sensitive to a very rough clean up???
  11. Do you keep propane bottles in the house? (For camping lanterns, stoves, etc) Does your garage open into your house? (Vehicle exhaust) Gas welding equipment? Bottles of wood finish? Oil lamps? Maybe those stinky room freshener things that you plug into the wall?
  12. I agree that the air shutter should be opened a bit. The roll out at ignition is happening because the air in the vent is cold and it takes a few seconds to establish draft.
  13. It has a few different positions, but I believe all of them leave some portion open. I think the lower right portion of the shutter is open. Sorry, for not having pictures of that part. I'll check it out tomorrow and if we ever get cold weather (I'd be okay if it stayed 20 degrees above normal all winter just this once) I will make sure to try the shutter in different positions to see if it changes. I just remembered something else too, I get a bit of roll out (I think that's the proper term) when the burner kicks on, like the flames lick out slightly before it starts burning fully. Is it possible that is related to the incomplete burning? Is there anything I can do it make it not do that? It looks super sketchy, but it's apparently been doing that for decades.
  14. The flame color indicates incomplete combustion. Probably not enough air in the mix. Is the air shutter on that burner completely closed?
  15. Thanks so much for the input! Too bad about that tube dripping directly on the top. I think most of the crud just comes from mineral deposits from boiling water dry thousands of times, but it has definitely caused the top of the exchanger to rust. I'm not sure how long it has been since the humidifier was last used. At least 30 years I'd say, since I'm good friends with the previous owner and I don't think they ever used it. The heating\plumbing guy did set the gas valve by ear\sight so most likely it is fine. It's been through two winters since then and it hasn't been nearly as hot. I do notice that when the "Warm Air Control" thermostat turns the fan back off after it has been running (after the burner has been off for a few minutes), it has a tendency to turn the fan back on within a minute or so, as if the heat that has saturated into the exchanger has heated up the inside of the system again. I doubt this is a sign of any kind of problem, but it is the only recurring "issue" with the system. I can just lower the fan temperature some more, but it already blows a bit of not-so-warm air after it has cooled, so I'm not sure if it's worth it. As for the flame color... it's a bit hard to show on video but I took this last year. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gdtwH96m7Sv4Sbub6 It's pretty close to how it looks in that video. Listen to it with some good speakers or headphones and feel the rumble. It's quite an impressive (and terrifying) home heating appliance. 😉 Maybe you can help with one concern I have had about this due to something that happened shortly after I started using it during the first winter. I heard the furnace running\burning but it seemed like the fan wasn't running when it should. I went down stairs and was horrified to hear the motor running but not blowing... the wheel that the belt wraps around had actually slipped off the spindle (I think that's what the shaft protruding from the motor is called), so there was nothing to turn the belt to run the fan. I was able to fix it after some aggravating contorted hammering with my body half inside the thing, and I made sure to adjust the belt after following some instructions I found. Most likely it was too tight before and caused the wheel to pull off over time. Anyway... if this happens again for some reason, does it appear that the temperature controller is wired in such a way that it will shut off the gas valve in the event of unchecked overheating like this? I believe it is, but I'm not 100% sure. I see one circuit inside the unit labeled "limit" and one labeled "fan". EDIT: I'm an idiot. There is literally a diagram on the front of the unit showing this exact FL-1 fan+limit control in the power circuit for the device. Come to think of it, I believe it was turning on and off without blowing the fan, which is what tipped me off that something was wrong. So, nevermind. I just had think back two years. Crazy to think we moved in here just a few short months before the pandemic hit. No wonder it's all a blur.
  16. It's really nice to see some TIJ folks stepping up - even some that don't visit here anymore. Chad, Please let us know if he needs anyone to help out up there. Don't care if it's just raking leaves.
  17. Hello, Looking for a possible cause of high levels of light hydrocarbons in my home that was found on air quality testing through Prism Analytical Technologies. Trying to determine if chronic sinus problems, headache, eye irritation, etc. are caused by environmental sources in my home and we are stumped as to the source of the hydrocarbon level. No gas appliances at all (stove, water heater, dryer, washer, etc are all electric). Any thoughts are appreciated.
  18. If you only know Gary through this website, you might think you don't know him well, but that's not true. He is the same when he posts on TIJ as he is on the phone, as he is on late-night texts, as he is in person. He's the opposite of Baskin-Robbins: he only comes in one flavor. He's a hard-working, fun-loving, bare-knuckled sumbitch who disagrees with me on just about everything. Last time we spoke he told me he'd be working up until noon on the day they bury him and I believed it. I still do, but fate has other plans in the short term. If you can, please write a check for a guy who'd do the same for you. If you can't, please share the link on your social media. In any event, I'm sure he'd appreciate a kind thought or a kind word.
  19. Those apostrophes can be expensive. Somehow, this brings Calvin Trillin to mind. The Nation used to pay him a flat rate of $100 per poem, so he wrote the shortest possible poems in order to make the most money per word.
  20. Yes. We called them barrel-style heat exchangers for obvious reasons. It's very primitive, surprisingly efficient (or inefficient, depending on your point of view), and very long lasting. Subsequent designs incorporated narrow shapes and were intentionally deformed in various ways to improve the transfer of heat, but those deformations always ended up being the sites where failures began. In this heat exchanger, the most likely point of failure will be the welded joint where the exhaust cylinder meets the main cylinder. *Never* re-connect that humidifier. Doing so would destroy the furnace. I'm surprised to see the humidifier tube set to drip directly on the heat exchanger - most of these that I've seen have a little tray that sits above the heat exchanger. Perhaps this one once had such a tray. No matter. Don't use the humidifier. Get your "old timer" heating/plumbing guy back to adjust it. With a furnace like this, the adjustments are not about efficiency. And, yes, 180 degrees at the registers is way too hot. Discard the idea of "maximum efficiency" with this beast. It'd be like tuning up my 1949 8N tractor for maximum MPG. With both of these critters, you tune it by sound & feel. The gas flame should, indeed, be blue, but understand that whenever your furnace is running, rust flakes are falling into the flame and burning yellow or orange. The plate on the end of the burner looks fine to me.
  21. Earlier
  22. Well, I just poked around in there with my boroscope and it's not at all what I expected! The furnace is literally just a cylinder with fire inside it (with an intake and exhaust), with a box around it that a fan blows through. I expected some fins or at least some contour to give it more surface area for heat transfer, but I guess that's just not how things were done back then. So yeah, no cleaning required in there, for sure. I didn't see any dust on any of the surfaces at all. It was a pain in the butt to get the scope in there were I wanted it but the joints where the main "cylinder" of the exchanger connect to the front opening and the exhaust didn't appear to be rusty either. The top of the exchanger where the water for the "humidifier" would sit is pretty corroded looking, but it looks quite thick so I don't think it's rusting through any time soon. I have digital CO detectors in the house so we should be fine. One more question. We had some home heating efficiency people in the house shortly after we moved in and the one guy was checking the levels of various gases at the exhaust on this furnace. I mentioned that we had replaced the gas valve and I wasn't sure if it needed adjusted. Seeming confident about the situation he kept cranking up the gas valve to output higher and higher because the efficiency reading on his little gadget said it was burning more efficiently (it told him 77% I think). When he left I was a bit concerned with how much louder the furnace got... I didn't want to overheat anything and I got the impression this young guy was probably more experienced with newer furnaces. I checked the temperature at the closest register in the living room and it was insanely hot... like 180F. I had the plumber stop by a couple days later to take a look at it, and he adjusted it back down a bunch, but I'm not sure if there was any rhyme or reason to his adjustment either. Is there any way to know for sure if it is burning at maximum efficiency without overheating anything? I've read the general rule that gas furnaces should burn blue, but this thing looks more like a flame thrower inside... some blue, but mostly yellow. Is that normal? If you look at the pictures I posted earlier you'll see a chip out of one corner of the plate on the end of the burner. Not sure if that would make any difference. Thank you again for all the help, and sorry for the wall of text. Read at your leisure.
  23. That's really interesting -- but I don't think an apostrophe is the real problem here.
  24. I wouldn't replace it unless/until it needed expensive repairs or unavailable parts. Dad's 1948 General Motors Frigidaire isn't real efficient and it's noisy, but still keeps things really cold. And look up from above the burner. Should be done every fall when serviced. It'll stop some gravel.
  25. Thanks for the info! I'm honestly surprised to hear that there isn't any reason to clean out a 70 year old furnace. Don't the heat exchangers get packed with dust? I'm a PC repair tech so I spend a lot of time cleaning heatsinks and fans to improve heat dissipation. I know they exchanger isn't going to have such fine fins, I just can't imagine having that much air moving through a system for that many years without it needing cleaned out. Maybe the exchangers aren't built the way I'm picturing them. I'd love to see some picture of one of these things broken down. Now that I think about it, I do own a boroscope camera. I should just look down in there from the top to see for myself what it looks like. It's interesting that right at the top of the unit there's a small door. It might be related to the humidifier system built into the unit. That system is hooked up but we've never bothered running it. Also, is that cheapo light weight filter sufficient for something like this? They're like $2 a piece at a local hardware store. I can buy all that I need and replace them often without spending an arm and a leg.
  26. This is the first time I've ever done something like this- I met Gary in 2007. He was a student in a licensing course I was teaching for ITA. Tom Raymond was there too. Together, they challenged just about everything I had to say and the discussions we had benefited the class and the three of us alike. Gary recently had a stroke that will seriously challenge his ability to make a living for a while... and maybe for a while after that. If you can help, he'll appreciate it very much. https://www.gofundme.com/f/lets-help-a-brother-in-his-time-of-need
  27. National builders are some of the worse builders I've seen. Something went dead wrong with that pour. It may or may not be an issue later. Builder may well fight you fiercely, claiming it's not an issue. I've seen it happen in my own area to a friend of mine.
  28. What the heck happened? It looks like something struck the stem wall. Did a piece of machinery back into it or something? The rough pile of concrete turds around the footing suggests that the entire front section was somehow loosened and someone tried to "glue" it back in place with a wheelbarrow full of concrete. I'd ask the super what happened. If he says that he doesn't know, he's either lying or incompetent. As for the future, as long as the base under the broken section is well compacted, this shouldn't cause future problems. You might have the builder patch the crack with mortar just so that any future movement will be revealed.
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