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  1. Yesterday
  2. While I have a netface page I don't post there re inspection. Which arrangement do you mean. the upflow or the valve thingy. What I see most with gas heaters is lack of combustion air. No chapter and verse here, but disposal in GA is to "an approved drain", best I remember.
  3. According to most of the Georgia professional inspectors on Facebook, that arrangement is not only allowed, it's expected when there is a basement. I don't know why they don't just dump it on the floor like we do here.
  4. I never heard of an amendment that allows that in GA. That discharge should just turn down and terminate near the floor where nobody will get scalded. Because it is open ended the little drain makes no sense. I bet the fixer was no plumber at all.
  5. I am using eSignToday.com. I pay $0.50 for each esignature, which is cheaper than having to pay a monthly fee when I don't use it all the time. With eSignToday.com, I upload my own document where I only need a signature, and then the signature appears on the last page of my document. Hope this helps.
  6. I suspect that, by 'upgrade', Trent meant a new computer. If you want to be able to upgrade the latest operating system on the same computer, get a Mac.
  7. there is no way. I just bought windows 7 beacuse my friend told me that I can update to win 10 for free, but its not true. the license its really expensive
  8. The Georgia amendment allowing this is dangerous. It violates every plumbing code (must drain via gravity, cannot be trapped, can't have more than 3 90° elbows), and the valve manufacturer instructions. In the event of a high temp or high pressure failure of the water heater, IF the safety valve functions that mess of plumbing is going to burst...either between the first and second elbow or the bleeder cap is going to become a projectile. And that's a big if. The valve is likely to be corroded from water trapped against it and fail to open, turning the tank into a bomb. That water heater would
  9. Thanks, Marc and Tom. I am in fact in Georgia. This just seems wrong overall. If you follow the pipe upward it also seems like it dumps back into the cold water line. Is that allowed by the Georgia amendment?
  10. That is prohibited by every plumbing code except for a Georgia amendment. Are you in Georgia? If you are it's probably allowed. It's still wrong though.
  11. Last week
  12. The T&P drain line should never rise or even level off. It needs to slope downward in the direction of drainage throughout it's length for precisely the reason the inspector mentioned.
  13. Thank you . Closest I have gotten to an actual part and we did order it. Crossing our figures now. Dimensions are a good fit.
  14. Two elements are broken. Is it possible to find these elements still? I have been all over the internet but maybe I am looking in the wrong places.
  15. Question about a strange TP valve discharge line. So this water heater has a TP discharge line that runs up and out of the house. On initial inspection, the inspector noted the potential for water to collect & corrode the valve as well as the potential for backflow into the water heater. Seller "corrected" the problem by having a plumber come out and install a 90 degree elbow with a drain at the upward turn. Is this legal/good practice? My understanding is the line should drain with gravity which to me means that it should go down & over the side of the WH, but this is at
  16. I often see gable ends vents with ordinary screen wire on them. Minimum mesh for roof vents is 1/8". It allows max vent area while still keeping bugs out. Old screen wire can get mighty clogged with dust.
  17. I think one of the causes is that the closet doesn't have adequate ventilation. Moisture level soar when there's no ventilation.
  18. Thanks for the detailed answer. Do you think one of the cause is that it is in an enclosed closet? Thanks
  19. I would take to appliance repair shop and try and match up with replacement dryer coils (I'm no home inspector though).
  20. i personally stay away from prescribing any retrofit-upgrade-alteration to properties i've not inspected & really have no knowledge of beyond that of the op w/o any pix numerous prospective clients actually send me pix & my standard reply is "unless i can see the current conditions in person i cannot factually comment any further, if you need someone to offsite evaluate i am not your inspector"
  21. If there is not a lot of blackness underneath the roof sheathing in the attic then the gable vents are doing their job. That means the attic is being ventilated adequately. Don't mess with something that is working. Assuming this, clean the gable vents and blow in a minimum of 14 inch cellulose insulation across the attic floor. This will keep a naturally hot attic from radiating down through the ceiling in summer making the AC work harder, and help keep warm air from rising into the attic in winter. I think that's all you want. Trying to get balanced heating and cooling with a one z
  22. He said this is a flip and you should not do anythi ng right.
  23. Personally, I'd throw on a ridge vent and add soffit vents. Then close off the gable vents.
  24. You don't have 24 filaments. That's a 20 kw furnace. It has 4 filaments in two sections. The section that you're holding in your hand in the picture is a 10 kw module with two 5kw filaments. I think that I can see a break in the upper filament. What about this Goodman/Amana module: https://controlscentral.com/tabid/63/ProductID/682253/goodman-amana-parts-bt1420034-10kw-heat-element-kit.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQjw28T8BRDbARIsAEOMBcyrvft4o9OmPGYv7_54WN4vZL0_zAcSLWwXD2xOYq00DV8MSeOunR4aAvaUEALw_wcB It looks very similar, just check with the seller to be sure that the dimensions will be the sam
  25. I agree with Marc, but, the gable vents may need to be cleaned and worse case may be too small. Address the insulation first and see where that gets you. Blown cellulose is an excellent bang for your buck.
  26. If the gables are vented, you don't need soffit vents.
  27. My son mistakenly purchased a flip without having me take a look first. The upstairs and attic are way too in the summer. I have an AC guy coming out to check the system but already know the attic has some issues. There is not enough insulation that we will address. The house is probably from the 60's or so. None of the houses in the neighborhood (or his) have soffit vents. He has a very small (maybe 4-6") soffit. He has a gable vent with a non working (or mounted) powered fan. I can mount this and ensure it works. From what I have read it was not unusual for houses from this era to be built w
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