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  1. Today
  2. I don't know if it's the same company but it's likely.
  3. Could these be the same Shaw sinks that were in the UK for like a century? Those had a lifetime warranty. Crazing would definitely be a manufacturer's defect.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Shaw fireclay kitchen sinks are very popular around here, especially the farmhouse style. I've always liked their products, which seemed to be of high quality. Lately, though, I'm seeing one after another with extensive chipping and crazing of the finish. On some of the crazed ones, stains have worked their way under the glaze and look like bruises. Last week, I saw one sink with over 70 small chips in the bottom and another with over a dozen. Is anyone else seeing this? Has Shaw, perhaps, had a run of bad sinks?
  6. Last week
  7. Earlier
  8. Maybe I did misunderstand that about the swale... But even if it's about moving dirt around, if I did it, I'd still take the tree out that I have in mind because it's a dying maple, a sign that it's not getting enough water as maples seem to be trees that thrive on wet grounds. So if I did remove the maple, that would open some options up for grading and I guess that's why I instinctively blended that *optional* component to your swale concept. My apologies on that--I tend to merge ideas but assume the final product is the original concept when I think things through too quickly. But
  9. Removing the tree may aggravate the issue. In the summer, it removes a large amounts of water from the ground. If you think you'd need to remove massive amounts of dirt, You've missed the point. Its mostly about redistributing dirt.
  10. I'm curious about any distinctions that exist between the swale + pond idea vs. French drain + dry well idea. The swale + retention pond sounds okay but it also sounds like it would be the most disruptive to a yard without providing the more efficient medium to transfer water. One difference I can see as being better with the swale + retention pond idea is that the final point where the water ends up would be open to daylight and more likely to dry up faster whereas a dry well would likely retain water longer due to its encapsulation and less air movement, etc... Both benefit from percolation,
  11. Marc's proposition has merit. I, also, am 99.9% against interior systems.
  12. Pretty close, John. Image is from a poorly patched garage floor.
  13. I ran a tight string along the middle at fender height (my tiller has fenders). I then cut a path the width of my tiller, removed the excess soil, then sloped the sides with tiller by swaying it sideways. Took two days. It's about 100' long, 12' wide. About 2 cubic yards of soil removed. Photo taken while standing in the ditch.
  14. I see... If you did it yourself, how did you do it? If you hired someone, what kind of person did you hire to do it? Did it have that much of an impact on water and drainage to feel like it was worth doing? When I think about doing that with my yard, it's hard for me to believe it would put a dent in the amount of water I sometimes deal with in my basement, but I'm not at all dismissing this as a possible option... I guess a lot of it just depends on how it gets graded and how much gravity it gets to use.
  15. 'Grassy trench path' doesn't quite cut it. A swale is like a ditch, only much more shallow and much more wide. Done correctly, you'll hardly notice it, but it'll drain the property. Did it myself years ago on my own property to carry water from the rear to the municipal ditch in front: Edit: You could do a dry well...same thing.
  16. Hmmm... I'd have to think about that. I'd have to swap no less than about 1 foot worth of pea gravel in areas above the perimeter drain to have a substrate I could use for something like this unless I opt to use some sort of drain pipe approach...but the dirt substrate would allow molding a swale shape to encourage water to sink into it. I'd have to think about the depth of the pond, too, because I can't see anything less than 3' working as I'm assuming this kind of system depends entirely upon gravity and grade to work well. Then there's the placement of the pond or ponds themselves: if I did
  17. Would you consider a small rainwater drainage pond to which you could drain two swales that begin on either side of the driveway, encircling the house and draining into the pond? Make the swales no more than 1 inch deep at the driveway, no more than about 10 inches deep where they dump into the pond. Perhaps 10 to 15' wide at the deepest point. Very mild, nothing ugly. Make the pond about 12' in diameter and deep enough to alleviate your issues. Make the pond as far away from the house as you can, and as close to the city rainwater drain line as possible. Cut a level swale from pond
  18. I'd suggest adding some information about your qualifications. What makes you a good choice when a buyer is looking for an inspector? What services do you offer, if any, aside from general inspections? And how about a sample report? Show people what they're paying for.
  19. Once you have satisfied customers, I would direct them to Google reviews rather than Yelp. Yelp might decide your reviews are fraudulent if you decide agains paying them to promote your business listing. Yelp is terrible.
  20. Do you write reports for "Peace of Mind" or to identify conditions? Where do you ply your trade? Do you have spell check or a thesaurus? concealed defects that make exist.
  21. Thats where the body lay until it was discovered. Or, it could be iron leaching from the soil, Or, ?
  22. Pretty much. Looking at it from the outside, you wouldn't really think it because it doesn't show an obvious bowl landscape but once you see how water behaves during rains, you realize it needs grading but because of the property itself, it's just not very possible. The closest I might be able to do is take down a tree by the city street and then bulldoze the heck out of the land to grade down the street direction, but I'm not convinced it would be impactful enough to merit the money and effort. I've attached 2 images: both basically show the house and the land it sits on. I'll try to fin
  23. Bill, the problem with my home is that I don't have the yard to do any grading with and since my downspouts are already at 20' out, I'm basically out of other options besides spending gobs of cash on replacing each remaining older wall. I wouldn't do that even if I had the cash to because the older walls aren't structurally problematic. But even if I did, I'd still be dealing with managing the water once it's inside because no way exists to prevent it from coming in, especially now that I have a perimeter drain line that channels water into a sump basin through the footing for it to be pumped
  24. Hi Don, The above is very honest feedback. People visit sites to see and meet the inspector they might be hiring. Who is your "team"? What are each of their qualifications and experience? It doesn't even mention what area. It doesn't show a location to indicate it's a legit business. No need to tell people why a home inspection is needed. They already know and are searching for a competent candidate. There's nothing in there that would ever result in your site showing up in a search - ever. Also, your meta tags are useless for search indexing. Typo and punc
  25. That's structural terra cotta. historicbldgs.com/terra_cotta.html If it is vitrified (and not just shiny from being wet) and the long edges are rounded, it could be telephone tile. historicbldgs.com/telephone_tile.html If it's not vitrified, then the shell is quite brittle. Ask your contractor to show you how well he drills the sides of flower pots. I've seen plenty of attempts at drilling - for termite treatments and installing anchors - that have blown out very large sections. I don't much care for adding interior drain systems. I never thought letting even more water into a
  26. Possibly the worst home inspection website I've ever seen. Nothing about it makes me want to hire you.
  27. I call it out as having the possibility of containing asbestos. The reason it may contain asbestos is that the majority of vermiculate insulation in North America came from a mine in Montana and got comingled with asbestos. The following statement was copied and pasted. Vermiculite from the mine near Libby, Montana, is contaminated with tremolite asbestos and other amphibole fibers (winchite and richterite). Asbestos-contaminated Libby vermiculite was used in loose-fill attic insulation that remains in millions of homes in the United States, Canada, and other countries.
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