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  2. Yeah, they're just meant to deny termites a concealed route to dinner. Forcing them to build a tube around it makes it possible for us who look to find it.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Just realized that when you click Activity on the upper tool bar, you get the list of topics with the most recent on top but within an individual topic the most recent post is at the bottom. What's the logic behind it?
  5. The stump, the second one that I pulled out, was a test of my resolve. I felt I had to show myself I could do it. Took me months. Shovel and ax. Once it was out, it left a circular hole 9 feet in diameter and 28 inches deep. A fire pit still sits where the tree once was. Took me years to burn all the firewood that came from that tree....alright now...I'm done bragging.
  6. ...what a funny picture. No wall visible, no foundation. Truck way to small to o pull that tooth. Not many contractors would be willing to dig and pour with stumps that big inside.
  7. It's not redundant if there are concentric rings on that knockout. I'd have used the EGC bus for that, not sure why. It should be either green in color or bare copper. A cable is an assortment of conductors within one jacket.
  8. The light and ventilation portion is pretty forgiving if you consider the exceptions to §303.1. If the openings are not required for egress, operable sash may be avoided altogether if their is a whole house ventilation system. (see M1507) As for 8%, if there is an alternative artificial light source that can provide adequate (place esoteric number here) light then one can avoid meeting the requirement.
  9. Is the cable running from the neutral lug up to the main service entrance cable raceway bushing area redundant panelboard bonding (in addition to the neutral bar bond screw) ? If not, what's the purpose of this cable?
  10. Hi! my name is NInaholm. I am new here.
  11. Last week
  12. That's not exactly correct. It says that "habitable rooms" shall have an aggregate glazing area of not less than 8 percent of the "floor area" of such rooms. That floor area might cover portions of the room that don't contribute to the habitable space of the room. The requirement applies to the "floor area" not the "floor area of the habitable portion of the room." To my eye, it's clearly talking about the gross floor area of the room. So for both your questions, the floor area for lighting and ventilation would be the same as the floor area for, say, carpeting. That said, different jurisdictions might interpret this differently. If it's a critical issue, call the local building department and ask.
  13. Habitable space with natural lighting and ventilation requires 8% of the floor area be windows and 4% be openable. How is the floor area defined in the following cases. 1. A habitable attic. Is it the area with 7 ft or greater headroom? 5 ft or greater headroom? Or the full area including out to where the rafters meet the floor? 2. A second story room that has an opening to the floor below. Is it the perimeter floor area around the opening? Or the full area as if the opening was not present? (For example, a 16 X 28 ft room with a 8 X 20 opening to the room below, and a 4 ft wide perimeter of actual floor.) Which provisions of IRC govern?
  14. Yes, exactly. They read as if they've been fed back & forth through a translation program. "Ramona's" IP address is in Delhi. Perhaps someone in India is testing a new AI home inspector.
  15. Two posts about an 1975 Airco AH-130 furnace in Edmonton - first in Nov 2019 and now Feb 2020. The second sounds like an AI re-write of the first: "Ramona's" other post is another re-write, this time of a Bill Kibbel post in Plumbing.... WHY??
  16. I dragged this old post out of the trash heap. Your model is a higher btu/hr rating and different serial but I think this post may help guide you a little in deciding whether to trash your Airco or keep it. The response to delislej is by Howard Pike, who has posted here many times and whom I regard as the member most familiar with Airco heaters.
  17. I have an Airco AH-130 in the house I as of late purchased in Edmonton, AB. The heater tech I had do the assessment says the warmth exchanger is rusting(though no clear openings) and we ought to supplant the heater. Presently it is old, and presumably goes back to development in 1975. In any case, actually I'd want to keep this thing, as I don't believe the new high productivity models to last more that 10 years, and with issues at that. I've approached a few spots for a statement to supplant the warmth exchanger, and am informed that parts aren't accessible. What I'm thinking about is whether that is truly valid, or on the off chance that they simply need to sell me another heater. Anybody ready to let me know whether there is a spot to get parts for these things?
  18. Endorsed flex couplings utilized underground satisfy a particular ASTM guideline to withstand earth loads/shear. The just one I know about is protected (a tempered steel band) and has formed in bushings.
  19. Also, there's something seriously wrong with this statement. Why are they digging out the center after having placed the perimeter?
  20. Why not just hire a stump grinder to grind out the bulk of the stumps? Then you can clean up whatever remains with a little baby excavator.
  21. The stumps have to go. Well, you could leave them in and let someone else deal with them later. They will rot and it will settle. I don't think I would be worried about termites. You can eradicate them.
  22. The issue isn't the termites, it's that the stumps will eventually decay. When they do, something, somewhere beneath the home will lose the support they once provided. Get the stumps out...by hand if necessary. I've done it before.
  23. Hi We are building a new home. Trees were taken down 4 years ago. After pouring the foundation, while digging out the center, they came across two tree stumps they did not hit while pouring the foundation. What is the best way to deal with this so we do not run the risk of termites in the future? The walls are two high to get a piece of equipment over to try to dig it out plus they don’t want to take a chance of damaging the integrity of the walls. Thank you, Katie
  24. The panel is a 200 amp, which in '92 allowed 40 breaker poles. The tandem is not allowed in that panel. The discoloration looks more like some type of chemical contamination than heat damage, but still may be a concern. There is some obvious paint overspray. I don't call out Challenger panels just because of their brand, particularly the newer ones like in your photo. There are many examples online of some failures of these panels. I have a pretty extensive photo library of failures on ITE, Siemens, Square D, Cutler Hammer, and others. The Square D breakers are not listed for use in that panel. AFCI breakers were not available in '92, so there really is no "listed" AFCI breaker for that panel that I know of......possibly Siemens, but doubtful. I think providing the AFCI protection is a positive safety upgrade that outweighs the non listed breaker issue.
  25. I'm wondering what's everyone's take on Challenger panels. I've read up on some known issues with them but not to the extent of FPE Stab Loks and such. The issues with Challenger panels don't seem as clear. The panel I inspected today was from a 1992 built home used mostly Westinghouse breakers. It did have a tandem breaker installed and Square D homeline AFCIs. The manufacturers label was missing so I could not determine the circuit total limit of the panel or get any other info. I also noticed some discoloration where the main breaker connects to the hot bus bar that I'm concerned about. I've attached a few pictures of the panel. What do you all report if anything about Challenger panels? Are there certain breakers or issues to look out for? Thanks for the help, Kiel
  26. I think your input is always good. Just a difference of opinion between two different entities! thanks for making all of us think.
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