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Sharkbite vs. Screw Down Compression Fittings


fyrmnk

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Hi all, installing new kitchen cabinets. I prefer to solder the copper lines, but due to space constrictions not sure I'll be able to. Considering Sharkbite fittings and manual compression fittings and looking for input. Are the manual compression ones similar in durability to Sharkbites? Any known issues with either? I could solder extensions on them while the old base cabinet is out if I have to to be able to solder my valves back on, but don't really want any unneeded new fittings in the lines if I could avoid it.

Most Sharkbite reviews I've read were good, just looking for any other input from you folks. Thanks, Kevin

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I would go compression. They are less than 1/3 the price of shark bite and can be removed and replaced if they leak.

Thanks, Sharkbite says it can be removed and reused. The manual compression ones can too? Old ones I replaced had the crimp inside it that grips the pipe so had to cut them off before I sweated new ones on. Could have been because they were so old maybe? Thanks again.

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The Sharkbites have a tool that slips around the pipe that you use to release the gripper rings to remove them. I would only use them where they are accessible for inspection and replacement. Time will tell how long the rubber gaskets will last.

The compression rings you had to cut were copper? Those rings can't be replaced but they last forever.

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I would go compression. They are less than 1/3 the price of shark bite and can be removed and replaced if they leak.

Thanks, Sharkbite says it can be removed and reused. The manual compression ones can too? Old ones I replaced had the crimp inside it that grips the pipe so had to cut them off before I sweated new ones on. Could have been because they were so old maybe? Thanks again.

The nut and ferrule stay, the valve comes off.

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I would go compression. They are less than 1/3 the price of shark bite and can be removed and replaced if they leak.

Thanks, Sharkbite says it can be removed and reused. The manual compression ones can too? Old ones I replaced had the crimp inside it that grips the pipe so had to cut them off before I sweated new ones on. Could have been because they were so old maybe? Thanks again.

Aww, got ya. Misread, thought you were saying they could be removed and reused. Might just go that route if I can't sweat them, since the originals lasted 30 years.

The nut and ferrule stay, the valve comes off.

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Just changed my water heater 'bout two weeks ago. I chose sharkbite over copper and it was a piece of cake. Went fast, no issues.

Marc

Thanks, if I can't sweat or get wrenches in for compression, might spring for these. Haven't been able to find much about failures with them, didn't know if anyone else has. Have heard even less about compression failing.

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I just used shark bites in an underground main supply to replace a sweat fitting in a 1" copper line. Time will tell if it was worth it or not. I did not find any documentation on the burial of the product.

It was kind of tough to manipulate the slip repair coupling while standing on my head in a narrow trench after fighting mud for 6 hours but it it held when I finally got it in place.

I screwed up the first fitting though trying to force it over an out of round pipe.

I finally cut back enough pipe to get to a clean section and it worked.

I figure anything else short of silfoss would have failed in that situation so I'm feeling pretty good with Shark bite so far.

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I just used shark bites in an underground main supply to replace a sweat fitting in a 1" copper line. Time will tell if it was worth it or not. I did not find any documentation on the burial of the product.

It was kind of tough to manipulate the slip repair coupling while standing on my head in a narrow trench after fighting mud for 6 hours but it it held when I finally got it in place.

I screwed up the first fitting though trying to force it over an out of round pipe.

I finally cut back enough pipe to get to a clean section and it worked.

I figure anything else short of silfoss would have failed in that situation so I'm feeling pretty good with Shark bite so far.

Any fitting used on a copper water service buried in the ground should either be silver soldered or a flared fitting.

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  • 1 year later...

Shark bites are great and I've used them quite a bit. I'm able to remove them by hand and without the special tool.

The only thing to bear in mind when using Sharkbites is that they do not conduct electricity, so if applicable they must be bonded over to maintain continuity..

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I just used shark bites in an underground main supply to replace a sweat fitting in a 1" copper line. Time will tell if it was worth it or not. I did not find any documentation on the burial of the product.

It was kind of tough to manipulate the slip repair coupling while standing on my head in a narrow trench after fighting mud for 6 hours but it it held when I finally got it in place.

I screwed up the first fitting though trying to force it over an out of round pipe.

I finally cut back enough pipe to get to a clean section and it worked.

I figure anything else short of silfoss would have failed in that situation so I'm feeling pretty good with Shark bite so far.

Around here underground water service work needs to be either hard soldered or hammer flared couplings.

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Whit Sharkbite I would recommend that you chamfer (bevel) the ends. A small nick in the O-ring will come back to haunt you. It may take 6 months to a year before it starts leaking. Else. well prepared ends and caution, leaves you with a good easy connection. Longevity is another question; 5 yrs, 10yrs, 20yrs, 30yrs or more. We don't know yet. I have been using them for 10+ yrs and have seen a few failures due to installation technique.

PS; Almost forgot to mention. Don't forget about elect bonding when using Sharkbite.

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