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    • By dryhero
      Has anybody had experience using a Temtop PMD331/351 particle counter? Look amazing on paper, features, build quality, etc. However, they are 1/4 the cost of gold standard manufacturers like Fluke, TSI, Lighthouse, MetOne, etc.  ($1,200 vs $4K-46K)Likely using lesser quality sensor(s)? Re-calibration might be difficult (Chines manufacturer). I can't find ANY discussion regarding reliability/accuracy.  Salespersons for the large, above mentioned brands simply say "I've never heard of Temtop"
    • By FirsTimeBuyer
      Hi All, We are looking to purchase a home. Home inspection report says pier and beam are offset (picture below). Is this fixable or should we walk away ?  
    • By Denray
      Have a new 95+ Rheem heater.  When the power is out, and on a generator, only the fan will come on, but burners won't light. My old 80% would light up no problem.  Any ideas?
    • By Alberto Diaz
      I’m considering making an offer on a townhouse that has a support beam that is splitting. The house was built in 1970 and there are no sign of sagging floors. Is this something I should be concerned about? Thanks in advance. 
    • By Marc Arnold
      We moved into a home last December, and ever since then, I have experienced dizziness, blurred vision, nasal congestion and occasional body aches in my living room. This feeling does not seem to happen in other rooms like my basement, where I spend 9 hours of my day working. It also does not affect my wife and daughter who think I am crazy because of this.  In March, we had our HVAC system replaced. There was significant mold growth on the coil of the gas pack unit. The AC units and furnace
    • By JMark
      My apologies for the poor photo.  I have a new roof with several voids along the rakes due to the differing thickness of architectural shingles.  My roofer says it isn't an issue with regards to rain and moisture due to the starter strip, remains quiet when I raise the issue of wind, says there is nothing he can do, and calls me picky.  It would appear to me be a moisture and wind issue which could be corrected by ending the course with a portion of shingle the same thickness, but I'm not the pr
    • By mgbinspect
      Greetings all, One of my fellow home inspectors called me yesterday, as the "old guy" to see if I knew when installing an electrical service panel in a bathroom became verboten. He had actually been asked that question by a local county building inspection official, who is dealing with it in a renovated home. (Virginia is an unusual state in that only new work must meet new code requirements. Old work is deemed grandfathered.) So, I in turn reached out to Bill Kibbel, who suggested tha
    • By MPdesign
      Good afternoon. I know that this is a bit off-topic, but I know that yo uare some smart guys who have seen alot. I have installed alot light fixtures, but I have never see a mount like this. This is for a chandelier at the ceiling side.  Does anyone know how this was suppossed to be hung? It is threaded on the right side with female threads. There is an escutchean that slides over to cover this and the box at the ceiling.  Thank you! 
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      Looking for Lighter Ladder

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      Trying to Locate Source of Dizziness and Allergies

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  • Posts

    • Thanks Bill... I did look into those Werner ladders... the Werner 16ft is 31lbs (LG Fiberglass is 28lbs)... the 24ft is 45lbs (LG Fiberglass is 42lbs), the 28ft Werner is 56lbs (LG Fiberglass is 50lbs), and The Werner 32ft is 68lbs and the LG is 61lbs. Something that I didn't know until I looked at the differences is that LG is using "Maximum Reach Height" based on some ANSI standard - so the Werner's might actually be longer than the LG ladders. Ultimately, they're pretty close for most sizes, but in my mind, shaving off even a little bit of that carry weight is probably worth it. Which means I'm still sold on the LG at this point. Something else when doing this comparison though, the LG are fiberglass, have a lifetime limited warranty, and the bright green I consider to be a safety feature. As for Werner, definitely a top tier brand for a reason - and they do have a lot of safety add-ons available for their ladders - but I can't find any information about their warranty. Incidentally I do have a Werner fiberglass Type I 6ft step ladder. It's been a great ladder, don't get me wrong, but I'm trying to be as lightweight as I can be. Oh, I did discover that LG's Conquest 2.0 multi-ladder (I don't know how new it is) can reach the same distance as the 16ft at 7lbs more in weight, plus you get the flexibility of the multi-ladder if that's needed. I think the Werner M17 aluminum multi-ladder was a touch lighter though. Again, thanks for the info, it kinda pushed me to do a little more research... and if price becomes an issue for me, the Werner will definitely win on that count.
    • That swale suggestion by Marc coupled with a solid gutter system connected to an underground yard drain are probably going to be your best option based on the limited information those photos provide. Obviously with a yard drain the issue is where to dump the water, and without having a first-hand view of the property, this is all speculation. Should you opt for a yard drain, make sure the pop-up emitter contains a 12" diameter turf restrictor plate at the surface - it does wonders in preventing the grass from growing over the emitter and impeding its performance. There should also be at least 1 inline catch basin in EACH underground run (since you have a shingled roof). I typically like to see these located in all systems somewhere at 10-15 ft from the house, removable grates are usually the best "cover" option but solid covers work as well, both should have turf restrictor plates to keep grass from growing over them. The grates provide a great visual "indicator" to monitor performance as well as maintenance use and ventilation. Where the downspouts meet the corrugated pipe entering the ground, there should be a Wye fitting with a grated cover, or if you have a lot of leaves, you can install a downspout clean-out with filter to facilitate easy maintenance (see photo below). The Wye or (DCF) not only provides maintenance access, without disturbing the above ground gutter components, it also provides an "air gap" as well as an emergency overflow in case the drain gets clogged for some reason. What you don't want, and what I have a seen a lot of, is a major separation from your downspout and the underground drain components. Those surface grates typically installed 2 or more inches just below the downspout usually get clogged with debris, ultimately turning the immediate area into a pool from the runoff coming out of the downspout and defeating the whole purpose of the drain. Velocity is your friend when it comes to maintenance, the faster you can allow the runoff from the roof to get to its discharge destination, the cleaner your system will remain, so if you can go with a 3" pipe, that usually works well. One more thing, don't use the black corrugated pipe from the big box stores and absolutely do not use PVC or SDR35 pipe underground for this type of system, there are locations in the system where they may be useful (such as providing for a freeze drain before the emitter, knife cut corrugated does a better job in my opinion, but you want the flex of the corrugated as much as possible. And that corrugated should be virgin pipe. The black pipe from the BB stores is always "regrind" which might last 10 or 15 years underground, but it is subject to rapid deterioration because it is recycled and contains "binders" to keep everything together - the binders are the problem as they breakdown, even underground. A virgin corrugated pipe can last up to 500 years underground and will almost certainly last a minimum of 100 years if installed correctly. These are the Downspout Clean-outs (with Filter) (DCF) connectors that I use to connect the downspout to the drain... You may find something similar, as long it still provides access to the drain itself to run an inspection camera or a hydro-jet should the system become clogged for some reason, such as an animal getting trapped in the system, usually because of an emitter fault - which could be caused by excessively high grass - especially without a turf restrictor, or some child removing a grate or cap and stuffing it with debris. IF you run into a contractor that uses recycled corrugated (I believe all of the big box stuff is recycled), or believes there MUST be a turf grate under the downspout (to satisfy the air gap requirement)... WALK AWAY and find another contractor, because while they may have been doing this for 40 years, they aren't keeping current with the science behind the design or construction of these systems - and any project they do for you has an expiration date attached to the system before the first piece of sod is ever cut (many don't do this) or the first shovel of dirt is ever moved. So a couple of quick things to look for: 1) There is almost never a place in an underground downspout that you want a T fitting - Wye fittings (or combis) should be the only connector installed underground, to facilitate water flow, unless there is a need for a catch basin (because you have a shingled roof). 2) Use 3in corrugated if you can (not always available) especially in a yard such as yours where it does not appear you have a good slope. If the corrugated is yellow or blue, it is definitely not recycled, if it is black, make sure it is not recycled. 3) The downspout connectors I presented above act as a vent to the system and facilitate keeping leaf debris out of the system. While there is a possibility that they may "overflow" (Ice or Debris usually) they are a crucial component as they don't get clogged very often, or may never get clogged depending on tree debris and climate. Just don't let the contractor use the air gap vent requirement to justify separating the downspout from the drain. If you do use a leaf deflector, make sure it doesn't spill out more water than passes into the drain line - that will defeat the purpose entirely. I've seen large and small, open-grated "leaf deflector" units that put a considerable amount of water right where they are located during severe storms, just the time you don't want that to happen. If you can't tell whether they keep the water flowing into the drain, better to just use a wye fitting with a grate cap on the side piece and check your clean-outs or catch basins regularly. Hope this helps. PS: I know this is a late response, but sometimes these projects can take awhile to put together for some folks. So I'm offering this reply in the event you haven't completed your project yet, or the results did not produce the desired outcome. I'm new to the forum here and consider drainage to be one of my specialties, so hopefully sharing some of that knowledge will help someone.
    • I see that the minimum circuit ampacity is 10 amps . . . though if it's working, I guess that's all you need. 
    • Adding some thoughts. I own a water damage restoration,  mold remediation company in Nebraska. Mold and the human body are complicated. My opinion is the mold is something to be aware of in your environment, but is perhaps is not as big of an issue as it's made out to be.  Mold spores will be present in virtually any indoor environment, but types and concentrations will vary. Moisture content (approx. 16%) of the material the mold spores settle on determines if this mold is actively growing or not. Your exposure to dry mold is like any other allergen, your immune system can react, or not. Mold that is actively growing on a wet material is an entirely different animal. It's now consuming organic matter and releasing organic vapors and perhaps mycotoxins, endotoxins, etc. An inexpensive moisture meter can be very useful if you know where to stick it. : ) Make sure your not growing mold in your home. Keep things clean and dry. Moisture sources go beyond liquid water. Chronic excess water vapor can provide enough moisture to allow the mold found in our normal household dust to grow (like in your crawlspace). Most crawlspaces should have a dehumidifier running if they aren't already heated/cooled by your HVAC system. Air sampling with spore traps are generally helpful in getting a snapshot idea of your aerosol mold count. But it changes from hour to hour, day to day, and cost approx. $100/sample, all things considered. Recommend NOT having a lot of samples taken. I also don't think surface samples/tape lifts are worthwhile since it often indicates how long it's been since a surface has been cleaned versus mold actual contamination levels. Think ceiling fan blade versus kitchen countertop. IF your not growing mold in your home, then you can lower your levels. Water damaged materials with visible mold growth should likely be removed...carefully, to avoid dispersing/spreading spores. I think EVERYONE should use HEPA filtered vacuums in their homes, but not brands like Dyson, Shark, etc., because although they may have a HEPA filter, they can't perform like a professional vacuum. Pullman-Holt, Nikro, Minuteman, etc. start at around $600 but are superior.  After HEPA vacuuming, damp wipe. Anything that removes dust will also remove mold spores. Avoid dry feather "dusting". Microfiber towels will remove the most particulate from a surface. Just use warm soap and water and avoid scrubbing the surface. You're wiping, rinse often. Then HEPA vacuum again.  Filter your air with the highest filtration filters your HVAC will accept and consider a stand-alone HEPA filtration unit. I like ugly, bulky professional air scrubbers because they filter the most CFM per dollar. Some residential units have too many options, are overpriced, don't perform well and are more fragile. Hope this is helpful!
    • Mine says Minnetonka, Tito, Latoya, and Germaine.
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