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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    This scary face rose out of the garlic patch.
  2. 2 points
    This was an interesting find.
  3. 1 point
    I started building another wood burning "boiler" this past weekend. I'm posting pics just in case anyone's interested. The fire chamber on this one is 24 inches across, 42 inches high and five feet long. It weighs 1700 lbs and is 1/2" thick. The tank is 3/8" and I treated myself to new materials for a change. The tank weighs 1800 lbs. The fire chamber and tank are all welded up now even though they're not in the pics. So far it's taken 40 lbs of rod. One pass w/ AC to fill and then two passes DC reverse polarity to be sure it's water proof. I'll post some progress pics when I get the fire chamber in the tank. Download Attachment: fire1.JPG 45.39 KB Download Attachment: fire2.JPG 41.23 KB Download Attachment: poortruck.JPG 59.74 KB Download Attachment: tank.JPG 43.36 KB Download Attachment: tank1.JPG 49.66 KB
  4. 1 point
    I generally agree with you & Chad, but here's my thought process: Zip codes started in 1963, and postal zones (one or two digit codes) go back to 1943. This one has neither, but it certainly doesn't pre-date 1943, so the absence of a code doesn't necessarily date it. (I've found the presence of a zip code or postal zone to be good at dating a furnace, but the absence of one doesn't mean much. It could be that they didn't feel the need to add a zip code (or postal zone) since they weren't mailing it. . . ) I agree about the chrome and the likelihood of it being from the '50s, but the sticking point is that this was a gas furnace from the get-go - it wasn't converted from oil, and there's only a small chance that this house had gas service in the '50s. Portland didn't have any natural gas until 1956, and even then, it was quite rare until the '60s. (We had manufactured gas much earlier, but that was long gone by the '50s.) So the '50s is possible, but unlikely. The data plate states 66% efficiency (90/135), which is probably what it gets when everything is perfectly balanced, it gets a rolling start, and it has a tailwind behind it. One of my partners used to do combustion analysis on these things and he said that, once tuned up properly (which wasn't particularly difficult), they could deliver about 65% efficiency pretty reliably. I was able to get a good view of the burner and the outside of the drum-style heat exchanger, both of which looked great. In the report I observed that the furnace is old and inefficient, but paid for and that it would probably outlast several If anyone's interested, I included this paragraph in the report:
  5. 1 point
    One of the first jobs I used the FLIR C3 was a 1946 Cape with multiple additions... through the fifties and sixties.. The LA said.. "you're gonna love this one... it's all electric heat.. some is in the floor and some in the ceiling and I have no idea which is which.. " The C3 solved it easily and made a huge impression on those present...
  6. 1 point
    well, at least it was not crestfallen.
  7. 1 point
    It's humor. It is the crest.
  8. 1 point
    Your concern for which appliance is going to draw exhaust is backwards.
  9. 1 point
    I think it would be nice to have a rule to refer to, but I'm also unable to find one. Without a rule or other reference, the HVAC contractor isn't going to know what to do. After all, he or someone like him installed it in the first place. For things like this, in the past, I've asked the furnace manufacturer for a written opinion, and used that.
  10. 1 point
    I agree it's a concern that should be looked at by an HVAC contractor.
  11. 1 point
    The cheapies are only good for radiant heat and the client thinks I'm cool to have thermal imaging. A plus is when scanning old upright cast iron radiators I can see if they are mostly filled with air and need to be bled.
  12. 1 point
    Just two thighs and a mons Venus. Very creative mudwork.
  13. 1 point
    If a lime mortar would have been used, the moisture in the wall would migrate out through the joints. Portland based mortar is forcing the moisture through the face of the stones. Sealing on the exterior would be useless. When the faces of the stones erode back about 1/2", they can be patched with Lithomex, which is lime-based.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    The most quiet exhaust fan is one that in inline with just the intake vent in the room. A really noisy fan won't get used at all. Don't try to mount a ceiling fan on its side in a wall. The fan bearings need to be designed for a sideways mount. The actual position of the fan in the ceiling is not that critical. It should change all the air in the room in a reasonable length of time. I'd put the fan away from the door, where the makeup air comes in. I wouldn't mount it inside the shower enclosure, not necessary, increases possibility of a shock hazard, like after a tenant breaks or loses the vent cover. I like the timer switch with the choice of 5 time periods. In a basement suite, typical low ceiling, Mr. Handy had fixed the noisy bath fan that always came on with the light. He installed a metal-handled toggle switch right on the cover, inside the shower enclosure, yikes.
  17. 1 point
    #3 size are not allowed to be used in parallel. 1/0 AWG in the minimum size allowed for parallel feeds, per 310.10(H). For that reason alone, it's wrong.
  18. 1 point
    hope and a meal for the tree rats. nice photo.
  19. 1 point
    That's a main-lug panel. In the trade it would be called an MLO (main lug only) panel. If you were to open it up and look inside, you'd probably see a schematic that said something like "listed for use as service equipment when using not more than 6 main breakers." *If* it's the service panel for a building and *if* it had 6 or fewer breakers, then it wouldn't need a main breaker. The tandems count as two breakers unless they have a handle-tie installed. My guess is that the panel was originally installed with 6 breakers and someone installed the tandems later - they don't match anyway. The upside down breakers (the ones that are "off" in the "up" position, mean that the panel must predate 1984. The fact that the breakers are oddly arranged and that there's a strange outline of a cutout to the left of the upper breaker makes me wonder if this cover actually goes with the panel behind it. We could tell a lot more if you had a picture of the panel with its cover removed.
  20. 1 point
    A tandem breaker is one throw. Do you have a picture of the panel with the cover off?
  21. 1 point
    <strike>Those lugs are not listed for two conductors. The installation is wrong.</strike> Edit: I should probably say that the likelihood of those lugs being listed for two conductors is remote in the extreme. Check the panel schematic to be sure. The wiring mess on the neutral terminal bar makes me suspect that the installer was not entirely competent.
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