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About omagic12

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  1. I do not guess that your guess is posted two weeks after the OP told us what the answer is.
  2. This reply is probably too late, but here it goes anyway. This would be the cheapest route, maybe not the best route though: Looks like the chimney is capped of and the stove out of use or gone. I would : 1) Start at the top of the chimney and wire brush as much soot off as possible and then pressure wash the entire chimney and roof with a de-greaser or simply green and thorough rinsing and let dry overnight. 2) Primer paint the entire chimney with one or two coats of BIN Grey (deep base) Shellac primer/sealer and two top coats of dark red exterior latex paint. 3) Paint the mod-bit w
  3. And remember to kiss it and tell it you love it everyday [:-angel]
  4. Every picture tells a story.. don't it? I want to avoid that.
  5. Thank you I-57. The grill I purchased doesn't have curved vents, and doesn't seat against the ceiling as tight as it should. I will return it and get one with curved vent's and hopefully a thicker foam perimeter. How does this sound: I'll seal the boot inside the wood frame with this caulk: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Dynaflex ... /100035980 , coat the boot with latex duct sealer and cover with a water heater insulation blanket ?
  6. Yes, there's three 3' W x 5' L windows and a glass/aluminum patio door (all are tinted) with fabric roll blinds on each. The new duct helps. but due to the windows and door it's not as cool as I hoped. I adjusted the vents as suggested by inspector57 and in combination with this beauty: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I2 ... UTF8&psc=1 it's cool.
  7. This is the vent I purchase: http://www.lowes.com/pd_64335-45311-ABS ... uct_price| . I could add this http://www.lowes.com/pd_36708-34146-APS ... uct_price| if needed. Should I seal it with caulking or spray foam? wait til dried and then cover with insulation.
  8. Duct is installed and pushing as much air as the existing ducts. I think I sweated off 5 pounds that will need to be replaced with beer. Thanks for all the replies.
  9. I should have been more specific. The patio/lanai is semi-enclosed, as a set of sliding glass doors were removed and has been partially walled off to separate the patio from the living room. There's also french doors that lead from the patio to the master bedroom that also provides return (gaps) even when closed. The attic extends over the patio and has about 19R worth of insulation. I plan to put a saddle starter boot a bit before the main duct elbow and 6R flex pipe to the register boot. Click to Enlarge 46.79 KB Click to Enlarge 39.08 KB Click to Enlarge 25.06 KB Cl
  10. 2/2, 1100 sq. ft condo located in mid-west coast of Florida. I am adding a duct run to cool/heat an enclosed 10'x12' patio. New 2.5 ton, 15 seer Rheem split system installed 4 months ago. Before the ac unit was installed I told the installer/owner that I plan to add a vent to the patio and to make sure the new system was sized accordingly. I enclosed (boxed) this boot: http://www.lowes.com/pd_31696-85334-GVL ... facetInfo= with 2x4"s between the ceiling joist and anchored with screws inside boot to 2x4's. I plan to mastic the seams and collar (flex attachment) and wrap any of the boot
  11. Thanks for the clarification of the float valve/switch. They told me there is a trap in the drain, but I can't tell as it's covered by the plywood in front. i want to rip that piece off, but when I pried a bit of it up I felt a suction. I am not sure if it serves a purpose in the return air flow? I ended up tearing out the wet drywall under the air handler and water heater and underneath the return duct there was a good amount of water. I am convinced the a/c condensation is the issue. I aimed a high power fan at the bottom of the return duct to hopefully evaporate the water. So, do I
  12. I just replace the wax ring with this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-To ... er_reviews . The old wax ring didn't seem to have any visible issues or tears and the pipe flange is solid. Hard to tell if the new ring is sealing because of the water being pushed up from under the tiles. AC company came by a bit ago and the drain from the air handler through the slab to outside near compressor was completely blocked. They suctioned it out with a vacuum and added a bit of bleach to water to check drainage, which is fine now. He informed me now, what he didn't inform me during installation
  13. Turned off all water taps in house and meter dial does not move (good news). Removed toilet and it doesn't seem to be leaking, but I will use a funnel gasket when I replace it. There's wetness near my air handler when I felt where the drain connects to the air handler, but no obvious drip.The air handler is located in a closet in the utility (washer/dryer) room, next to the bathroom. The air handler and the hot water heater are on a wood platform about 2 feet above the floor. Underneath the air handler is an enclosed air return and drain pipe from the handler. It's a bit wet in the adjace
  14. Thanks Jim I plan to wet-vac and fan the bathroom tiles too. Should I be concerned about mold/mildew under the tiles?
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