Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • Location
  • Occupation

Fredartic's Achievements

New Member

New Member (2/5)



  1. Stephen, the microbial problem has been resolved. I said that it was treated with an appropriated produtc. I don't worry about it anymore.
  2. on the third picture, you can see the wall, there is a board that I don't know what it is. It's a light stuff, not thick and it seems that the aluminium siding is right nailed on it. My question is: do I need to add OSB or plywood on that board before installing 1 x 3 and canexel LP siding? If it needs plywood or OSB, which depth is necessary?
  3. Any other comment? Everyone agree with this method?
  4. Tom, I don't know in NY state but here that kind of product is so difficult to find. Also, regarding the customs boarder, we usually pass the custom easily with our building stuff for the house. Of course, it will need few trips because of the size of the stuff... If the cost of the batts (for 5 inches and half deep, it cost $1,06 per sf, plus the price of the vapor barrier vs $0,75 per sf for polyurethane) is not cheaper than the cost of the polyurethane, which solution is better? Considering that I'm not supposed to compact the batts??? thanks
  5. oups! here the link: http://www.prokit.ca/liquidation/materi ... lyurethane
  6. ...or if I use 3 pieces deep, it will take 7 inches and 1/4 and letting 1/4 inch on my 7 and 1/2 total space available, so no vent but R-48,9 value for just an additional $370. it seems a good idea, isn't it? ...and than I will put my t and g pine panel over it and no more worry about my energy billing!!!
  7. What do you think about that polyurethane product? It is 2 inch and 3/8 thick for a R16,3 value that cost 0,75 square inch. If I use 2 pieces I will get R-32 for 4 inches and 3/4 thick that would let more than 2 inches free space. Should I vented that free space or not in that way? thanks
  8. someone has heard about that product? i don't know if it's available in USA or Canada or if we have something similar, do you know? It says that it is equivalent of 10 inches of insulation! so, because I don't have a lot of space in my cathedral ceiling, maybe it would be a cheaper alternative instead of spray foam that is very expensive? but I would need to put it between the rafters, becaue I don't want to reduce the heigth of the ceiling, so I don't know if it will be ok... thanks for your advices
  9. Now I understand. Thank ou Tom. If it cost $2,000. it's an option to consider seriously considering time (my vacation), the cost of material and the trouble to do the job by myself, considering that I'm not a pro also... But last year, we had an estimate for spray foam the cathdral ceiling and blowing cellulose in others rooms... for $4,000. So, it was too expensive and that's why we were looking for alternatives. We will check for others companies and have more estimates. The cathedral ceiling area is approximatively 12 by 12 for one room and the other part is 12 by 24.
  10. ...and from again Dow company... Cathedral/Vaulted Ceilings ? Installing STYROFOAM Square Edge, RS, Tongue & Groove, DURAMATE? Plus, TUFF-R?, Super TUFF-R, or THERMAX (Gypsum board exposed on inside of ceiling with rigid insulation between gypsum and wood framing) 1. Install batts between rafters in the conventional fashion, leaving at least an inch of ventilated air space below the plywood/OSB roof deck. 2. Install vapor retarder on the underside of the rafters. This could be 4 mil poly or kraft facer on batt insulation. 3. Nail insulation to the underside of the rafters over vapor retarder. 4. Install drywall finish over the foam insulation. Drywall screws will need to be long enough to compensate for the thickness of the foam insulation. 5. Avoid penetrating the vapor retarder when installing light fixtures. ???
  11. Tom, from what I see on the website of Dow company they recommand to do the opposite, first, install the matt and after the styrofoam... Installing SM/CLADMATE/WALLMATE in Cathedral/Vaulted Ceiling (Gypsum Board Exposed Inside Ceiling w/STYROFOAM Between Gypsum and Wood Framing) 1. Install batts between rafters/beams in the conventional fashion, leaving at least 2" ventilated air space between the surface of the batt insulation and the underside of the roof sheathing or roof deck. 2. Ensure that venting from the soffit to the ridge vent is continuous and not blocked. If needed, install baffles at the wall/roof junction to prevent blocking of the airspace at that location. 3. Prior to installing the STYROFOAM? extruded polystyrene insulation, install a continous 0.006 inch polyethylene vapour retarder on the underside of the rafters. Install STYROFOAM SM, STYROFOAM CLADMATE? or STYROFOAM CLADMATE XL directly over the vapour retarder, fastening it to the underside of the rafters/beams. Install the boards perpendicular to the rafters/beams. 4. If using STYROFOAM WALLMATE? extruded polystyrene insulation install perpendicular to the rafters/beams by srewing or nailing the 1x3 strapping to the underside of the rafters/beams. Install a continuous 0.006 inch polyethylene vapour retarder to the surface of the WALLMATE insulation by stapling it to the face of the 1x3 nailers. 5. Install 1/2" drywall finish over the foam insulation. For ceilings insulated with STYROFOAM SM, STYROFOAM CLADMATE or STYROFOAM CLADMATE XL, drywall screws must be long enough to go through the foam thickness and penetrate at least 3/4" into the rafters/beams. If using STYROFOAM WALLMATE insulation, fasten the drywall directly into the 1x3 strapping using minimum 1-1/4" drywall screws. 6. Avoid penetrating the vapour retarder when installing light fixtures. I'm confused... thanks
  12. In the house, I had pulverised all the area that present black stains, the attic, the walls, the floor with a specific product used with a machine for that that I had rented at Home depot. Here's the link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-1 ... XDpgbWQVmM Is is safe that way?
  13. Stephen, as I can see, I'm right that in Qubec we still believe in ventilation also for cathedral ceiling but from what Tom and others suggest to forget the ventilation, what do you think? do you mean the floor or the walls of the skirt? I'm still confused. There so many positions that all make sens for me... I need learning more. Thank you for your advice.
  14. this is a metal roof that was done maybe 7 years ago
  • Create New...