Garet

"Functioning as designed" includes not leaking. Did you see indications that the leaks have been repaired?

Actually, putting in a smaller fuse is safer. Perhaps less convenient for the user (if it repeatedly blows), but safer. It's putting in a larger fuse (or a penny) that leads to danger.

What would keep those supply pipes from freezing when there is no water running? Or does it never get that cold in Charleston?

The mechanical damper for dryer exhaust is intended to let air out, but not in. That would not work for a make-up air intake on the return. Something does not make sense.

As houses are constructed tighter against air leakage we're going to see more systems with make-up air drawn from the outdoors. Normally I see a motorized damper that closes the make-up duct when the system is not running. Are you trying to say they are drawing return air from the attic as well as from the living space and exterior? This would be a return register, not a supply register.

The problem is, in 10 years I have yet to see a k&t installation that hasn't been monkeyed with by some fool who had no business mucking around in an electrical system. They're all screwed up. Every last one of them.

That cracking looks remarkably like a case I saw about 15 years ago. Similar size building w/ brick veneer over concrete columns. Turns out the brick was self-supporting for 17 stories with no ledgers. After sitting there just fine for 20 years the brick finally decided the pressure was too much and started to buckle. Engineer had them start at the top floor and take out several adjacent bricks and install a short piece of ledger. Then they took out a few more bricks next to it and install another section of ledger. After completing a ledger on one floor they moved down and started all over again. The bottom section (where the cracking was bad) got completely torn off and rebuilt. The first photo shows temporary band-aid strapping as well as a test mock-up to verify color match. Click to Enlarge 50.03 KB Click to Enlarge 54.79 KB

Have you tried contacting the company that manufactured the meter?

This is on a bank owned shell about 4 years old, exterior mostly installed, electric installed, but otherwise it's just studs inside. Exterior has a reflective material used as a weather barrier under vinyl siding. Same material was used on the bottom of the roof sheathing. Looks like a woven material with a foil coating? I found no markings on either side. Any idea what this is? Is it listed for use as a weather resistant barrier? If so, is it supposed to be sealed with UL-181 tape instead of lapped shingle-fashion? Click to Enlarge 62.71 KB Click to Enlarge 37.65 KB Click to Enlarge 54.13 KB

Perhaps because I've never looked before. Sure enough, the spool sitting in my basement says "sunlight resistant". Oddly, it's marked only on the wire itself, not on the marketing material printed on the packaging. Thanks for enlightening me.

From my dictionary -- Diatribe: A bitter and abusive verbal attack. For years I've been suggesting that they stop seeking educators from among our own ranks and instead get real experts in each field. I've also been suggesting all-day or multi-day sessions on a single subject rather than 2 hour affairs where the speaker starts by saying "We're going to skip a lot, because this should really be an all day class." And I'm really tired of home inspectors simply recanting war stories and passing it off as education.

What code section prohibits UF cable from being used outdoors if it's sunlight resistant? - Jim Katen, Oregon I've never heard of sunlight resistant UF. I assume such a creature would still need to be protected from physical damage?

I wrote diatribes in response to most of the questions.

Neither NM nor UF are rated for being exposed above grade outdoors. If it's got a plastic jacket and you can see it outside the house, it's wrong.

Y2K attempt?

The 5' thing is fairly new. Used to be we would bond in the first convenient connection between electrical and plumbing. It's often under the kitchen sink.

No one has yet mentioned one of the most useful (and inexpensive) tools I carry. Click to Enlarge 6.44 KB

They're asking a home inspector to approve a plat? That sounds like a job for a surveyor. You're asking home inspectors about legal responsibility for an environmental mess? That sounds like a job for a lawyer.

Cat IV (high efficiency, plastic vent) operate under positive pressure and Cat I (mid efficiency, metal vent) operate under negative pressure. They're not compatible. If that's what you saw it was installed by a bozo.

I agree completely with the notion of a waterproof camera with no external moving parts. Crawl spaces (and inspections in general) are H3LL on cameras. I bought the extended warranty with my previous camera. Lucky me - it went in about 3-4 times for repair to the moving shutter that covered the lens. The only problem I've had with my current Pentax Optio is that I've used it so long that I've actually worn out the battery contacts. It's going on 5 years now. The Fuji is a strong contender to replace the Optio when it dies.

I would take a good, hard look all over the roof. If it's near the end of its useful life then it will show. I've seen several older concrete tile roofs where a few random tiles are beginning to break down. If it's just a few they can be replaced with replicas and/or salvaged tiles available from specialty suppliers. If a lot of tiles are breaking down then it's time to write a much bigger check.

I understand that in Florida (lightening capital of the country) the utilities require the GEC to originate from the meter box.

Sun tracks. I was slightly skeptical of this when I first heard about it. Then one day a reflection caught me in the face as I was walking up to a house. The heat on my face was intense. Since then I've seen multiple photos of similar patterns, one with the offending window on the wall immediately adjacent to the damage.

Are the plumbing supply lines run in the attic? If so it may be a gravity hot water circulation system (no pump involved). I'm considering installing one on my own house.

Was it no more than 6'-7" above the floor? (2008 NEC 240.24)