sepefrio

A friend forwarded this to me. It's free and they feed ya so it can't be all bad. Seminar places and dates

It's all part of the one year contract. Of course, since the site is designed, the 2nd and following years are substantially cheaper ($300-500) range I believe, which includes hosting. But If I want to make changes, thats an extra fee. But the idea I like the most out of this, a web site done professionally makes you look professional. To me it's the same as the cloths you wear. Show up at a HI wearing cut off jeans, flip flops and a "Smoke a Dube" tee shirt, the client might be scared a bit, even if you are the god of HI's. Most clients, in any business, make up their mind about you before you even start working for them.

This is an interesting topic for me right now. I've talked to a professional web developer and I'm considering letting them make me a dynamic web site. First off, it would be a lot better than the crayon on a napkin ability that I have, but second and more important, they understand how the internet search engines work. With the deal, I get a guarantee of first page placement on Google and Yahoo for multiple search terms. But $2800 is a lot of cash for that. Overall I think a professional web site, and not the plain black and white script boxes I see all over, would get me at least 10 more inspections per year. Anything over 10 would be free and clear of the costs involved. I'm still pondering.................

I grew up in Florida and there is no such thing as Hurricanes just pass us by, it's, it just hasn't hit us yet. Also, I wouldn't be surprised if those stains are just from the humidity. Many days in a Florida summer, the moment you walk outside and your sweating. The temperature difference between the floor and the crawl space, especially since it's not insulated can be quite drastic. Also, Tallahassee does tend to get a tornado or two.

Hrmm, I have a question for ya. I see how the permaflow evacuated the carrots peels. But couldn't that cause problems further down the line? Especially since most people don't put that amount down the drain at once, the permaflow will trap all sorts of junk over time letting the amount build up. Then when you rotate the dial and clean out the permaflow, the obstruction, en mass goes down the plumbing lines. I would think that would cause a greater chance of clogs further down the line. I see that you can snake through the permaflow, which is good, but I was just wondering if there has been any indication of more clogs after the permaflow unit than usual.

OK, I concede [^] You make a decent point and I know I was arguing the fine point. Worse we are having this discussion without all the information and some assumptions. Rock on.

Aye, caught the wire part, I was just asking about the siding as I don't know and was trying to expand my knowledge base of those little things. I figure it would be as wood siding it more firmly attached than vinyl. As for the foundation, no worries, I had a Realtor once tell me that foundations are only a cosmetic item anyways (<---that was a joke).

If I may I'll ask a question too, (I really do like stirring the pot because I hate burnt soup) I see that it is attached to a wood siding. Is that strong enough? I know if it was vinyl the bracket would just rip out the siding. Should the bracket screws dig deeper than just the siding? Also, it may just be dirt, but is the plank it is attached too separated a little from the house. As in maybe the screws pushed it away from the house a little. I see a black line at the bottom of the plank but not with any of the others in the photo.

WJ, maybe I'm a hard head but I would prefer to do it here vice out there with the customer. "The vent pipe is leaning - I have shown in multiple places that a leaning vent stack is not something wrong. So why say it? "Get an HVAC technician to install a new pipe" - Again, why a new pipe, likes hausdok said above, maybe cleaning it and painting is all that is needed. and get a roofer to make sure that the new pipe is properly flashed (waterproofed)." - Agreed the flashing needs looked at especially since there was a stain (albeit dry on a rainy day) underneath. My point is this. My comment said it may need repair soon. I was corrected by several saying no, it's broken get it fixed now. I know it's a fine point but it does make a difference. Not accusing you of it but what I don't want to do is get in the habit of just saying "well I'll just call it broken and let someone else figure it out" actions. I think we are paid for more than that. In fact, it is this type of action that, IMHO can justifiably lead to being called deal killers.

Quick note, my name is John, sepefrio is just my screen name. Billy, I'm not saying that. In fact I have said a couple of times that this could be wrong. But what I am saying is, please show me where it is written that it can't be cocked. I have shown you where is says it is not recommended, but not wrong. I respect everyones opinion and the vast experience, but if I am ever pressed on something, I can't use "Well, that's what Billy said". As per manufacturer directions? No clue, do you have a copy I can read. Here are some from Sun Mar that I found. Again it recommends no slants, but doesn't say they are wrong. i) Minimize the number of sharp angles as each reduces vent efficiency. If it is necessary to have angles in the vent pipe, it is recommended that 45 degree angles are used whenever possible. (90 degree elbows may be used as long as no horizontal vent results - pipe may be bracketed at a slight upwards angle to prevent this) There was also this..... i) The vent stack should be installed as near to vertical as possible. So again I say, slanted is not wrong just not recommended. Look, I am married so it's proven I make mistakes All I am asking for is something to back this up. EDIT Jim - Go back to my second post. I do recommend writing it up, but not as an immediate repair. With the information that is available I would call it marginal and let a contractor make the call. To me it still appears it could be functional though. I even mentioned the stain too. I believe that only items that you can discern are clearly broken are written as such. In this case, there is too much information missing to make a 100% certain call.

OK, I'll be more blunt this time. How is it broken? Just being at an angle does not make it broken. I just went through NFPA 54 again and this is the only thing I'm finding about the pipe being straight/slanted. Straight is recommended, not required. 4-5.9(5-4.5)Vent ducts should be as straight as possible. In general, any bends can cause increases in the pressure that develops during venting. If bends are unavoidable, they should be as shallow-angled as practical (that is, they should have as long a radius as practical). As for the rust, if it is just surface rust, it is not broken. As long as there is no penetration through the metal, it still maintains it's integrity doesn't it? One thing the code does state is that the vent ending can't be within a certain distance of other forced air vent openings. This could be a handy mans way of moving the vent ending away from the chimney. Is it the best no, but not broken. Maybe the supports are there to support a slanted vent. How many straight vents have you seen with support brackets? If I'm wrong on this I can take that. But everything I see in print says it's not broken. Can someone show me where a vent is considered broken if it is at an angle or has some minor surface rust? Remember, for this discussion, no one here can say for a fact the unit has broken free, I've given arguments above to say it has not. Further, we can't determine the extent of the rust. If access to the roof was possible and you could see a hole in the vent or broken supports, thats different. But just saying it's broken because it's slanted doesn't jive with what I've read.

Kurt, Just curious, and not to change the subject but if you kept a client mailing list, you could use this as a marketing opportunity. Send a letter to them about this and what to look for. You could also put in a statement that you will swing by and check if they are uncertain or to call NABCO if they are uncertain. I guess the curious part is, do you think this is ethical, I don't see any problems with it now. But when that person that you notified and had the problem corrected is asked by a friend for an HI, I bet your name will flow right out..

Tim, Not arguing, just asking OK. The vent should be straight - If I recall, it's not required to be straight, it's require to have an upward incline. As for the support bracket, I asked about that, but it can't be seen from the photo. It may be supported and still have strength, just in a slanted position. I have a hunch it was installed slanted on purpose since it is so close to the chimney. The support brackets don't appear bent and appear to make solid contact with the roof. I don't see any bulging of the shingles which might indicate the bracket pulling away from the roof. If the vent had fallen over that much I would expect to see some deformation in those two brackets especially the one it leans into. Of course we can't see the rear bracket, if there is one, which may be detached or broken. I agree the vent cap won't work properly in a slanted position and will allow water in, but another small elbow could correct that. Also, like I referred to in the other post about rust, if there is no leakage, if the supports are solid, if the rust is surface only and there are no other problems, then it is working as intended (except the cap). It may be ugly, but I don't report on cosmetics. Would I want that on my house? Heck no. But if it's working, I think it's not to be reported as Broken - Requires immediate repair just because it's ugly. https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum ... mately,Bad Matthew - Ahh, yeah I took it like there was plaster in some spots and not in others sorry, lol. I haven't been in a situation like this where you'd have to use a neighbors house to get on the roof. If the current owner was home I might ask how the neighbors were and maybe ask them for permission to access the roof from their side. But if I had bad vibes about it, I'd just drop it and write it up as such. All in all, I do like Terry's comment the best. Straight, simple, to the point and next item please.

Well you said enough right there for my final comments then. "Moisture stains noticed in attic near the Boiler/Hot water Heater vent. Vent shows signs of deterioration (rusting) and may have shifted (bent) away from it's originally installed design. Although no moisture was detected in the attic at the time of the inspection, the stain may indicate a leak at or near the vent. Have this area inspected by a qualified roofer for further evaluation. Exterior inspection was made from the ground with binoculars because the roof was too wet for safe access." I will ask you some more questions though. You said the attic was partially plastered over? As in a handyman repair to cover stains or a more professional intended design? Also, what was the condition at the hot water heater and the boiler? The excessive rust on the vent could mean more. There is a thread in here about rust on vents. In the HVAC titled "So, Is Rust Ultimately Bad?!", it's on the 8th page. I suggest you read that too and take that advice. One thing that does sit bad with me though is how it was too wet to go on the roof yet no moisture detected inside. It is a contradiction of terms and the Realtor will probably use that to tell the buyer everything is fine or that the stain was from before it was fixed. To be more on the safe side I may offer to return in a few days when things are dried out to re-inspect that portion from the roof. Odds are, it will be declined due to the time line they are on, but it shows good will and if stated in the report, may remove some liability from you. But before you leave you need to double check all the venting you see along the entire run for more clues if any. This could simply be a rusted vent installed weird but works. But it could also mean a lot more. More investigation is really required. If nothing else is found, I'd go with my comment above. BTW...how do I link directly to a thread in the forums here? the URL on my screen just shows https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/

Two questions for you first. Did you go on the roof, and what does it look like from the attic side? I don't see any flashing around it or it could just be the photo. But at least to me, if the integrity of the roof itself is solid, as in the screws for those mounting brackets aren't being pulled out, or the vent is slanted where it passes through the roof thus opening a small gap that water can penetrate, and no gapping between vent sections, I would only mention it as an item that may need replacement soon. It may be ugly and slanted, but if it is still serving the intended purpose it's not broken. Hrmm, one more thing. You said for a boiler and hot water heater. If that is a townhouse and if the attics are split along the same line as the shingles, then that vent is real close to the attic side wall. Again go in the attic and see if there is enough separation as per the type of vent tube. It's probably OK, but at least worth a look. EDIT- just a guess here too, but does that vent side up with the chimney? If so it may be slanted on purpose. The intent may have been to prevent chimney fumes from going into the vent or vice a versa. If the vent was straight, would the opening be over the chimney? A few more questions. Under the window, it looks like the flashing is bent out creating a gap. I know this is on the downward side, but a good wind could still drive water into that gap. Also along the side, is there any flashing under the tile? It too looks a little bowed up. Opening the window and sticking your head out should be enough to see if there is. Lastly, I take it this is a town house. Just curious about the house to the right in the picture. How close does the service drop get to that window. From the picture it looks like it gets pretty close, as in you can reach out and touch it. Again it may just be the photo and the angle of it.

The recent post on a new recall reminded me of what happen to me during a recent visit to a Realtor shop. I mentioned how after completing an inspection and when I returned to the office (got home[ that I would check for recalls. One of the Realtors responded "I think thats my job not yours." I responded, OK great, less work for me, I'll just note on the report that you will provide recall information on everything in the house. I know I was a smart ass, but that comes natural to me, but am I dumb too? Who's job is it to see if an item has been recalled? I kind of figured it was ours? Note: I'm not talking about toasters or hair dryers, but installed equipment and major appliances (washer, dryer, Stove etc)

If I'm seeing that picture correctly, I've seen this type of work done before in Spain (where most houses are not grounded). Instead of the electrician running two wires, they bend one in half, run it through loop first, then at the box they snip it in half and connect the wires. In that picture it looks like the covering is still connected at one point thus giving me that impression. Or there is just another white wire behind it to make it look that way, and if thats the case ignore this post BTW...If you guys ever saw some of the electrical work or how many of the inspections are done in Spain, you'll just die. Once when my Butano (kinda like propane) heater had a leak (I could smell it), the repair guy turned on the gas then traced the gas lines with his lighter to see if it flamed up anywhere. I was completely stunned and scared to death, but he had been doing it that way for decades I'm sure. And it worked, he found the leak fixed it and life was grand.

OK I'm the new guy here but I'll comment anyways. It's kind of hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the new elbow is of a smaller diameter than the iron piping. As such wouldn't that be a prime backup location. If the pipe's aren't the same size then the interior walls are not smooth and may even have a lip that things can get caught on. Kurt....if you put an extension on that and brought it to ground level, it's mower food no? When I was building my patio in back, I found a clean out that was about 5-6" from the side of the house that had be eaten by a mower then covered with dirt. Of course the entire pipe was full of dirt and I had to clean out the clean out, then fix the cap. Also, depending how far from the house it actually is, having a clean out cap sticking out of the ground in the middle of the yard (where kids run and play) is a trip hazard. Now if you placed a sewer utility box type thing over it so it could be accessed and not damaged, that might be better.

Jerry, I agree the setup was bogus too. When diagnosing any problem, you have to take into account all the symptoms. When the people said they cleaned it away twice already and it came back and claiming the head aches could make one believe such. BUT! I do think the inspectors made their definite decisions way to fast and did over exaggerate the work required to fix it. Sealing off the room and declaring they should not enter it again until repaired is pure and simple a scare tactic. Regardless, this video makes me feel even better about my decision regarding mold inspections. No way in hell am I ever gonna do them. I could care less if I find mold that speaks English and tells me it's mold, I'm going to write it up as "Discoloring noted on (location) get a qualified mold inspector to evaluate and make recommendations"

Just a couple of thoughts here. Although the idea of carrying everything possible in a vest is neat, I really don't like the idea. First, the more you carry, the greater the chance of it getting lost or broken. Things can fall out of a vest especially when you are contorting to get into certain spaces. They also can be crushed or broken. I've also had a history of battery powered items getting turned on while in a vest and then when I need it, it's dead. On the flip side, although it is a bit of acting (otherwise known as marketing), returning to the kitchen to fetch a tool demonstrates work done. My routine includes tool swaps. My tool belt is small so it can't carry everything. Thus, as I rotate areas, Kitchen, Roof, Attic, Crawlspace etc, I swap out tools from the belt to the tool bag. The client sees the different tools going in and out of the belt and gets the feeling of a more complete inspection. Remember, no matter how you inspect, if the client "thinks" you barely did anything, thats all that matters. I also carry a few items in my bag such as breaker covers or panel plugs. I purposely leave them in the bag. When I find a panel missing with a panel plug missing for example (and no other problems), instead of writing it up, I place a new plug in it's place. By returning the to kitchen, grabbing one from the bag, tossing it in the air once for good measure, the customer and Realtors take notice. If they ask, I reply "well I can put this in (free of charge, thus it's not a paid repair) or I can write it up as a discrepancy". NOTE: I don't do anything thats requires real work, like fixing a wire connection or seal leaking pipes. If I used a vest to carry these items, no one would take note thus it is a wasted marketing venture.

I forgot about this, but here are the pictures....So is this damage from a weed eater something else or who cares, just note it and move on?

Just curious as I'm not sure how these boards really work, but is it possible to sue them? I know thats a lot of money, just asking.

*bows head so hausdok can smack it* Thanks bud.

Sorry, not to get off track or to hi-jack the thread but I was wondering if someone could point out a good article, link etc, with the complete history of the FPE panels and stab-loks. I've read and been told about them and seen pictures too (haven't seen one in real life yet) but that is only the result not all the who's how's why's etc. So, if you could toss out some consolidated info that would rock. Would also be a good thing to print out and keep on file I would think. Thanks.

Even if the Saints had won that game, they would have needed a lot of help to win the Division. And I know you can think that stupid play calling of the reverse lateral fumble cost the game, but there were a few gaffs on either side. Like had Galloway and Luke been on the same page that would have been 6 points for Tampa and not a pick 6. Still though, it was, IMHO an incredibly dumb call. The Buc's now own the division with only a few extremely unlikely scenarios left to be squashed. Go Bucs