Garry Sorrells

You may be fixated on mold as the cause of your what you think you are experiencing. You may also be attributing the house interior as the source when in fact it may be a delayed reaction to something outside the house that you are in contact with. It is very possible that mice/rat droppings and their urine may be affecting you. Symptoms are very similar to your description. If you go looking for mold you will find mold, because it is everywhere and natural. You need to work from a less predetermined causal position. Most filters and the like only reduce circulation if it is in the duct system. If the system/house is prone to mold generation it will return. If it is something in a gaseous state most filters will not stop transference. The possible solution may be in air scrubbers that work on various levels and is not an off the shelf purchase. BUT, you have to know what you are really going after first.

Good point.. What else would I be able to ask him to do? As for the ventilation, should I keep the crawlspace vents open year round then? Does not look like a serious problem. I cast a vote for you to spray it yourself. The mold guy may be padding the ticket for some extra work not really needed. If the vents were closed they need to be opened. You might want to consider : http://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residential/ ... tion_Vents

I would agree original shims did nothing. Steel shims are the way to go. The fact that the beam is sitting on the edge of the block raises a flew flags as to what may be going on. The floor may have been been into the sagging process for quite a while. It's that it has just been noticed recently. Jacking it up and re-shimming is a a short answer method to resolve sagging and to level out floor, if in fact the floor has sagged or was it that the house was built with a sagging floor, not uncommon with some builders. Just jacking the beam up may create other problems/issues to deal with. I would get in a good contractor that will look at the problem as a entire house and not just a jack up a beam job (and hit the road), rather a holistic approach. With laser lines you can shoot the entire floor, beam or structure and get a good idea of what may be going on. Be aware that when you move one area you will be moving many other areas of the house and creating stresses that may not be there at present. Depending on what is going on it may require making small adjustments to the beam over a long period, so as to not cause greater damage or at least reduce the effects of a sudden change of the bean.

Wounder if the seller's lawyer who filed the suite, knowing it was frivolous would be able to retain any money from the seller. Also, if the seller's lawyer knowing it was frivolous and not informing the seller would make the lawyer responsible for the other parties costs from the suite? " New Jersey Rule of Court 1:4-8 allows a court to impose sanctions, including attorney?s fees"[:-crazy]

It's more about what the wire will handle, not what you plug into it. All of the outlets and switches have to be rated for 20 amp on a 12g wire with a 20amp breaker. One basic reason you usually see 15amp breakers and 14g wire is that it is cheaper than 12 ga wire and the underlying thought is why waste the money.

Good picture of the builder and his helper on page # 5.

Yep, plumbers for boilers. Now I will say that like all areas/trades some are better than others. Especially when it comes to Vacuum Vapor Systems (a type of low pressure steam system). Some will not get involved in their replacement.

For what it is worth, inspection probably already done, boilers are the province of a plumber. Not all plumbers do boilers but they all should be educated in them for their lic.

2nd fl window. Window in bathroom? Bathroom vented? Is there a heating register below window? Would also question insulation at header. Side of house also looks like staining. Might look to sump pump location as a cause. Or HVAC duct work location as cause. Then insulation again.

I would also vote for the coupler needing to be replaced. Else it is the valve.

The hazard may not be the panels but the soap and water. No soap, No water means less slippage. Is this a good recommendation???? "It is recommended to not use soap or water in the shower enclosure." The panels are there to retain the water, not a couples mombo session are they?? Glass can be broken and that would be a hazard, so the fact that there is glass panels then there is a safety issue to write up also.

Olympus Stylus TG-830 it likes the water. found this site $149 in Blue not a bad deal https://thedigitalpros.com/item.htr?id=30753 Click to Enlarge 67.01 KB Click to Enlarge 32.64 KB Click to Enlarge 53.25 KB Click to Enlarge 45.86 KB Click to Enlarge 27.57 KB Click to Enlarge 56.28 KB Click to Enlarge 60.89 KB

What doesn't kill you makes you stronger ???????[:-wiltel] Not sure that being a the test subject is such a good idea if you have been going to the doctors already with complaints. Get the mother-in-law there to do the testing.

Hiding the problem is a bad idea. Will cost you in the long run. If the roof needs to be replaced and some repairs done I would suggest that you put on a new roof before you put the house on the market. Rational: 1) Selling point for house. 2) It will cost you less for you to have the roof done than what you will lose in the negotiations.

Pulling wire not a real big problem, just use larger conduit. Use 2" conduit then #8 pulls like it's going through butter. The raceway inside raceway is a heat issue. The covering inside the conduit creates the concern insulation and heat dissipation. What he is saying is the UF covering is acting like a raceway the adding conduit creates a second raceway further insulating the wire.

What is going to happen when you want to get a welder, you will need way more than the minimal you are looking at. Pull#6 or 8 and put a panel in the garage. Its only money.

Base mix short on something or mixed poorly. Location is prone to damage and repair recipe not right. To much cheese in the spread.

Wow Garry. Are you like 100 years old? No, I was on the committee that came up with the idea of what to do will all of the rock left over from the creation of the earth. We created dirt. So I guess you could say I am older than dirt.

We use to use horse and hog hair (pre fiberglass) in interior plaster to increase its' strength. Looks like the concept was incorporated into the exterior mix.

The ceiling crack may be the result of the truss/rafter/joist design and how the drywall was installed, flexing and moving. If that is the case unless you make design alterations it will always have a crack. Not a structural integrity issue just a cosmetic issue. If only a tile or two, most likely failed from installation or something hitting it. The water on trim. Seller would never lie to yo would they? From pict it looks like it is not a one time event. Therefore potential concern. Your HI and a check list report only makes for a bad report. Fewer words will protect the HI. All the HI has to say ; see it noted a potential problem. More words, narrative report with meaningful explanations, would be better for the client yet it would dig a hole for the HI if they were not competent. In your case it seems that you were short changed.

Thought I saw installation instructions that may have been used. Despite Installation Instructions it will boil down to an argument over opinion and design. You will have to choose between personal opinion and manufacture installation instructions. Should the occasion arise. http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfIma ... 2360af.pdf Page 8 Click to Enlarge 12.78 KB

A little something to look at:[:-magnify http://www.armstrong.com/pdbupimages/2127188114.pdf Look at pg 390, 391 and 392 9. DO NOT USE THE STEP NOSE ON INDIVIDUAL STAIR TREADS. K. FLUSH STAIR NOSE INSTALLATION FOR STAIR TREADS AND RISERS IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE: The installation of laminate flooring on stairs is a fully adhered system. Under no circumstances should foam underlayment be placed on stair steps or risers. This will result in an unsafe condition. Do not use over-the-top step nose moulding on individual stair treads.

LP, Was the riser flush to the tread and a transition strip added? Did the tread extend past the riser by 3/4"? Was the tread material a laminate or was it solid (such as BRUCE Flooring)? I ask because of what looks like a micro grove in picture. Either way it's wrong...either in design or application. Click to Enlarge 21.17 KB

Something from Dr Suess???

I think that this may the beginning of your answer. Shark bite approval: ASSE 1061 & NSF/ANSI 372-2010 & NSF/ANSI 61 http://www.sharkbite.com/sharkbite/wp-c ... TTINGS.pdf Performance: Maximum working pressure . . . . . . . . 200 psi Maximum temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . 200?F (93?C) Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Potable water Materials: Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DZR brass O-ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . EPDM Grab ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stainless steel Tube support liner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Polysulfone Finish: Natural Brass or Chrome Plated The SharkBite? push-fit fittings have been design certified and listed to ASSE 1061/NSF 61. The SharkBite? push-fit fittings are listed by IAPMO and are certified for potable and hydronic http://webstore.ansi.org/RecordDetail.a ... 7AodxXoAqw ASSE Standard 1061-2011 Performance Requirements for Push-Fit Fittings This standard applies to push-fit fittings that can be used with one or more of the following materials: 1) PEX tubing complying with ASTM F 876 or CSA B137.5. 2) Copper tubing hard drawn Type K, L and M and annealed Type M not to exceed ?" nominal, complying with ASTM B 88. 3) CPVC tubing complying with ASTM D 2846 or CSA B137.6. 4) PE-RT tubing complying with ASTM F 2769. 1.2.2 Size These fittings shall have a nominal size not to exceed 2" CTS. 1.2.3 Minimum Pressure and Temperature Ratings These fittings shall be designed for continuous water service up to and including 100.0 psi (689.5 kPa) at 180.0 ?F (82.2 ?C). Push-fit fittings are not intended to be used in temperature/ pressure relief valve drain lines unless they are tested and rated for excessive conditions of 210.0 ?F (98.9 ?C) and 150.0 psi (1034.2 kPa) per ASME A112.4.1 or ASTM F 877.