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paulmars

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  1. no quote function for me to reply. By hurricane straps, did you mean the wall to roof hardware? That's vital. yes Metal panel isn't rated, as far as I know, but the high wind building methods that I've seen place it above all shingle style roof covers. Don't install it on top of a previous shingle roof, especially in your Florida climate, moisture gets trapped in the shingle layer and corrodes the metal panel from the bottom on up. Expose the underside of the metal panels to the attic if reasonably possible. that scares me. I need double or triple protection from leaks. like peel and stick over the planking seams, then 30 wt tar paper over it all, then the final roof cover (metal or shingle) He's way wrong. Don't hire him. There's plenty of shingle roofs choices rated 120 mph. Some are 150 with specified, more robust, nailing schedules. He says rating is one thing, actual performance is another. I'm not. Just give the screws a good inspection every five years or so. REALLY? If they look ok, then they are not leaking onto my tar paper? The neoprene washers dry out. Galvalume is fine. High wind resilience is not cheap. It relies on all the proper measures being in place. No weak links. Do it right or don't bother. Look for a Fortified Home evaluator or Wind Mitigation Surveyor in your area. If you can't find either of these, download a copy of the Fortified Home High Wind Standards and become familiar with the relevant portions of it. Tab those pages with relevant specs that your contractor needs to follow and make sure he knows his work must comply with them. Inspect it yourself as construction proceeds and confirm compliance. Ive been reading the codes and much of them I dont understand. I also know field knowledge is important and I might be taking some of these codes wrong. At this point, I just want to find a great contractor who really knows his/her stuff. Either that or hire an inspector (who i also need to qualify) to be there for the entire job.
  2. 1200 sq ft house. built in 1952. Cinder block construction. Three 4/12 roofs. 5 miles inland from the west coast central FLORIDA. Im adding rafter and collar ties. Vertical rafter supports. gable end supports. Hurricane straps. Then I will hire someone to remove old shingle roof. Secure planking with 8D ring shank nails. Might use peel and stick. Then Id like a metal roof, although I might go shingle. I dont have a lot of money, but i do want the strongest roof possible. I want my home to withstand the next big one that comes thru. Is metal really that much stronger and longer lasting then shingles? What is the best strongest type metal roof? Ive interviewed many contractors and each has a different opinion. The contractor im considering now says any roof all bets are off with wind over 80 miles per hour. Still metal is way better then shingles and that all that I need is galvalume with exposed fasteners. That standing seam is way more expensive and no better. That the exposed screws will never leak. Im doubtful. Your thoughts? tks, pa
  3. can I get advice? Are any inspectors willing to recommend a great roofer? tks, pa
  4. hey Chad, u gunna visit florida anytime soon? p
  5. for outdoor humid, hot central florida. Strong structural concrete screws. Im attaching simposon H10S and LGT2 straps to my rafters and cinder block walls. Im using simpson screws to attach to the rafters, however simpson makes no outdoor concrete screws and has no suggestions. So, Im looking for the best reasonably priced outdoor concrete screws for use in central florida. thanks, pa?
  6. 8000 lbs per cable per rafter why? what is ultimate load?
  7. None, but I've only seen 3 wood buildings with sag and bow. All three garages. When a hurricane strikes, they will blow away. I plan on being here and intact after the storm. My ridge bow is about 3".
  8. ...769 pounds so cable rated at 1k every rafter would do?
  9. what is wrong with my math? I never got a value that low. So how many cables would that be? Every rafter?
  10. Im planning on installing rafter ties in my 1952 cinder block home. It has no rafter ties at all. Every time Im in the attic and look around, I wonder what holds up my roof. The ceiling joists run parallel to the roof ridge. Im also going to install collar ties. Currently there are only two. The roof does not have much sag and the walls have no apparent bow. However, Im adding hurricane straps, supports for the gable ends, and extra fasteners to hold the roof planking to the rafters. Vertical rafter supports and then a new roof cover too. So, I decided to add the rafter and collar ties too. In my research, I have discovered the idea of using cable instead of wood for the rafter ties. Cable is stronger and will allow me to remove some of the pressure on the side walls, using a turn buckle I can pull up the roof slightly. I have a string pulled straight across the ridge inside the attic. I do not plan on trying to take out all the sag (3'), just a little to remove some existing pressure on the side walls. Cable will be easier to install too. I have two unresolved questions concerning using cable. One is what size. I have found several formulas on the net on figuring side thrust, but each i use gives different results. Its most likely because I am using the formulas incorrectly. I have spent many hours trying to figure this out. Now i just want answers. Can someone help? Also, many sites discuss the number of nails/screws/bolts that are needed to fasten wood rafter ties. Using enough fasteners to hold it secure. Now, Im not sure how many that i need to connect the cable to the rafters. One would be easy, more requires a special designed fastener. Another reason for not using wood rafter ties is that I would need to cut each rafter into three pieces to get them thur the attic access hole. I have a bad back and cable is so much lighter too. This site formula gave me thrust of 1250 http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/RafterThrust.htm this one gave me 18000 http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/raisedtiethrust.htm I have used other sites too. I just don't understand all this math. So, I want to know how strong a cable to buy and if a single attachment point to the rafters is adequate. 14 rafters (not including the gable rafters), 24" oc 2x6 4/12 pitch room measurement eve to eve 205" shingle roof tks much, pa
  11. I cant understand this math. ive been over and over it. Each time I get a little further, then I loose it again. ref: How to calculate rafter thrust? -Help! at http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=105386 Can someone help me figure cable load? 4/12 24" rafter spacing. No rafter ties at all. A few existing collar ties. ceiling joists run parallel to ridge. house is 27' x 30'(ridge). 7/8" roof planking and asphalt shingles. thanks, pa
  12. I've decided to add rafter ties to my home. Im thinking of using cable. 1952 house. This house was built with NO rafter ties and very few collar ties. Block construction. The joists run from gable to gable. With the nakid eye the ridge is not sagging, walls are not bowing. However, I have added hurricane straps and gable supports. Soon, i will be replacing the roof and while at it, screwing the roof planking to the rafters. Im making my home as hurricane resistant as possible. Therefor I have also decided to add cable rafter ties and 2x6 collar ties. suggestions? pa
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