Water heater flue question.

[Jim Katen]

Thanks Jim,

That is pretty close to what I have started to do.

Now for the better question......... Who are you going to recommend do the venting review. Any experience with any of these guys: http://www.csia.org/default.aspx?tabid= ... N=&LN=&CN=

I'm at the point where I may start referring my clients to specific competent professionals, if I can find any.............

Steve Pietila at American Chimney is very good. As far as I know, he's the only sweep in the area who can do a Level II.

Alan Lesman at All Temp Professional is top notch. 503 236-2263. I'm not sure how much he still works, but his son, David, and his son-in-law, David pretty much run the place now. David & David have only been at it since 1987, so they're still a little green.

Ben's Heating has some pretty sharp guys. 503 685-9298. I've dealt with Ben's son, Clyde, in the past.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

[Chris Bernhardt]

I'm unconvinced that the lack of initial rise in the vent connector is a problem, and I will not be writing it up.

There are too many variables that can effect venting and there's no table or formulas that can take in all considerations.

I think the only reasonable trip point to flag concern would be some sort of depressurization test.

Chris, Oregon

[kurt]

I'm unconvinced that the lack of initial rise in the vent connector is a problem, and I will not be writing it up.

There are too many variables that can effect venting and there's no table or formulas that can take in all considerations.

Chris, Oregon

Yup.

Hot air goes up. If the pipe is pitched, located, and sized appropriately, it'll go up the pipe.

After that, everyone chooses how much they interject themselves and their bias into the mix.

[Charlie R]

Yep, gotta have slope. Which way was that slope supposed to be? Oh yeah, I know, downhill cause it's a water heater and water runs downhill! And that draft hoodie thing, which way did that go? Must be legs up. (I know, WRONG!)

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[Hearthman]

http://www.mttaborchimney.com/

for a F.I.R.E. Certified Inspector in Oregon. These inspectors are the only ones actually trained in chimney inspection techniques as part of their certification: www.f-i-r-e-service.com

HTH,

[Jim Katen]

http://www.mttaborchimney.com/

for a F.I.R.E. Certified Inspector in Oregon. These inspectors are the only ones actually trained in chimney inspection techniques as part of their certification: www.f-i-r-e-service.com

HTH,

Interesting, that guy used to be a home inspector. About two years ago, he became a sweep.

On a different note, when the F.I.R.E. certification first came out, I was happy to recommend those guys to my customers. Problem was, they kept going out of business. I can't think of one in my area that was in business for more than a year or two. Any idea why?

(BTW, the only other F.I.R.E. certified sweep in my area isn't listed with our CCB, which means that he's operating illegally.)

- Jim Katen, Oregon

[Brandon Whitmore]

Thanks Bob,

I wonder how experienced they are. The CCB number is indicative of a newer company, but that doesn't mean the guy that started the business didn't jump ship from elsewhere..........

Would you prefer to see a guy with 20 years of sweep experience inspect a chimney that is not FIRE certified, or a guy with say 2 years experience, but FIRE certified?

[Hearthman]

Since the guy with 20 years has not been trained in what he is looking at, I would actually probably prefer the 2 yr. F.I.R.E. Certified inspector. Also, for the record, the F.I.R.E. program is not about selling chimney liners and repairs but simply stating facts. I'll leave it at that.

[upacrk1]

Hi,

I came across this forum while researching my current water heater installation. My water heater was recently replaced when the old one failed (still under warranty with only a couple of months left [:-slaphap). The first part of the 3" flue is a straight 12" run which then connects to an adjustable 90 degree connector (at 90 degrees) before joining a tee in the main line. It seems to me it would make more sense to have a slightly shorter (~9") straight section connecting to an angled connector that would be at about 135 degrees. This proposed setup would seem to create a much better flow out. Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated. Thanks much!