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taking up subfloor


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She got ticked when I blew sawdust all over the house. I said damn woman, you're the one who wanted the new floor so clam up and get out the vacuum. When you're done there, take this claw and start pulling nails. I then went to pick up materials. By the time I got back she had all the nails pulled. I just picked up the sheets and tossed them out back.

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So, you're all done with the project.

No...too late to prevent sawdust from getting everywhere.

How about a streaming video John, like them eagles, so we can all watch the new floor go in? [;)]

Marc

Do you really want to see my wussy hammer swing as I bust up my knuckles, spew curse words and throw stuff?

So far, blocked, glued and screwed 23/32. Very solid.

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That's pretty workmanship!

Marc

Thanks, although I'm sure a pro could have done it in half the time.

Now its out to pick up the backer board. Just to be sure, the thinset mortar for between the plywood and backer board is different than the stuff used to adhere the tile, correct?

What about spacing the tiles? I know there are choices. The tiles are 11 3/4" squares. What kind of spacing do you like? 3/16", 1/4"....? She wants 1/4". Is that pretty common?

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The layout seems too good to be true.

I started as the entry way from the dining room being a main focal point. Beginning with a full tile centered, I ran the layout.

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At both cabinet base edges the tiles will be equal at 9 1/2 inches.

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At the door to the basement, the perpendicular grout lines are symmetrical. There will be a 5 inch tile run at that threshold and the adjacent wall there will be a 5 3/4 inch run.

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The only slither will be at the right side of the fridge and the majority of that will be hidden by the fridge. What is not hidden by the fridge will be just about covered by baseboard and quarter round trim.

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Nice work, John. Glad we could help from the easy chairs. [:)]

If you look closely at the tiles, there will often be lines running through the pattern. You can run all the lines one direction or you can alternate by turning them perpendicular in a checkerboard pattern. It's subtle but it makes a difference. Remember your pattern when you go to make cuts.

Spread the thinset evenly as possible so all the tile edges are flush, no high spots. Clean the grout lines out with a paint stick or similar before it hardens up. Dig the thinset out from between the tiles so that your grout can go deep. Spread only enough thinset for a couple of tiles at a time.

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You put down that Hardi backer upside down. It's not going to work like that.

Just kidding.

Don't forget to tape the seams.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

I got the tape standing by. I was going to do it but I went back and read the instructions and interpreted that they want you to fill and tape the seams as you lay the tile.

I'm learning alot by doing this job. Now when a client asks me about tile I might have better answers for them.

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Nice job so far, John.

I'm learning a lot by doing this job. Now when a client asks me about tile I might have better answers for them.

And sometime in the not too distant future you can also tell them about refacing cabinets, installing granite counters and buying shiny new stainless steel appliances. 'Cos you know those are next on the wife's honey-do list, don't you? Oh, and don't forget about that bathroom makeover now that you know how to tile.

I've done exactly three tiling jobs in my life, all on this house. Front porch, kitchen and new bathroom (including laundry room) in that order. Hard work but very satisfying. I'm actually a little sad that I've now run out of places to tile just when I was getting creative with the stuff.

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. . . I got the tape standing by. I was going to do it but I went back and read the instructions and interpreted that they want you to fill and tape the seams as you lay the tile. . .

I must admit that I've never done it that way but it seems like you'd be scraping up the tape every time you drew the notched trowel over it. Once you start laying the tile, you really want to be thinking only about laying the tile. But maybe you're a better multitasker than I am.

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Go look again. The seams running perpendicular to the viewing angle are staggered. You'd have to lay them out in a herring bone pattern to stagger all the seams-that'd totally suck.

Your point is?

Too bad if you have to cut it. That's the way it goes. What's the point of all this focus on blocking and stiffening, if you're going to get lazy with the last, most critical layer? Nevermind.

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Am I wrong?- I'm trying to imagine laying the backer in a T pattern or herringbone pattern and my brain tells me either method would yield a lot of seams.

Honestly, I've splooged down acres and acres of tile on HardiBacker that I installed like Dirks did using modified and unmodified mortars and I've never had a call back for broken or cracked tiles. At my house I have marble installed on hardibacker w/ no issues after ten years. Stagger the hardibacker seams from the plywood and never have four corners of the backer align and all is good.

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