allseason Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 I plan on replacing my roof in the not to distant future and am researching metal. Simple gable in Northern NJ. If anyone has any input and installers it would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 Begins rusting as early as 20 years old, but if you maintain it, it can have an indefinite lifespan. Residential installations are often poorly or defectively done, but you're an inspector. Just watch them closely when they install it with the installation instructions and your own individual specs in hand. Ventilate the underside of the panels to the exterior. Remove all prior roof finishes before installing new underlayment and spaced decking on top of the existing deck panels. Spaced deck boards shouldn't be more than 4' apart or whatever the manufacturer says. I'd suggest no more than 3'. Don't install screws near the center of the space between the ridges, should be within an inch of a ridge. The screws fail first. They corrode and the corrosion quickly spreads to the panels. The neoprene washers also dry out or the screws back out some, creating a way for rainwater to enter. Just give the roof a good exam once every couple years and mend it as needed. If you're going to install it yourself, let me know. I've a tip I came up with when I once installed these roofs that lets you install them in such a way that the eaves ends up perfectly straight. Easy to do. I'm down south, you're up north so there's likely some factors that apply only to you. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Raymond Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 -Go with a concealed fastener system, they look better and require less maintenance. Bonus: the panels will go years longer without rust if you don't poke a bunch of holes in them. -Place rigid insulation between the purlins and skip the ventilation idea. The roof will be much quieter, resist dings better, and condensation on the underside of the panels will be far less of a problem. You also can use thinner panels with this approach but I wouldn't do that unless you plan on bending your own pans. -Ask for the installation manual for what ever product you buy and study the details. It is very important for you to understand the correct way to install your roof, the guys with the screw guns don't. In my area there are at least a dozen companies doing metal roofs, only one of them details their work correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 I forgot to ask Chris if he's intent on metal panels or standing seam. The advice I offered was for metal panel. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allseason Posted March 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 Marc, Standing seam. I think the ventilation issues are different in the northeast. The newer systems have the seams prefab versus the old days when the installers would bend the seams by hand, faster installation and perhaps less room for error (leaks). I plan on studying install plans and material types, including factory finishes. Apparently some finishes have very good life expectancy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 My suggestions were for metal panel, not standing seam. Sorry. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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