DonTx Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Does anyone have good resources for Faux Stone & stone veneer construction? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kibbel Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Donald, Try the LSMA (The Lickum Stickum Masonry Assoc.) [:-slaphap Sorry, this is the closest I get to any fake masonry: It's a 25,000 sq. ft. home constructed of cast stone in the late 20's. Your State might have a masonry council that may have published construction standards. Or you can try masonrydetails.com if their website is completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Hi, I'm not sure what you're looking for, but if it's the skinny on what can go wrong with it, check this out: Manufactured Stone Nightmares - JLC, Dec 2004 OT - OF!!! M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kibbel Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 jhagarty, That is correct. 51 rooms. I spent about 7 hours just in the basements and crawlspaces. Donald, sorry for the thread hijack. Hope you found what you were looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonTx Posted April 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Well, no I didn't Bill, but the HiJack was worth it. Love those pics! I'm looking for some type of standards such as the BIA. I acutally treat Faux Stone like brick and use the same standards. Typically faux stone will not be installed on a brick ledge here. It's simply hanging off the side of the building. I'd like to have something to point to and say "See, this isn't right". Flashing and support details would be nice for starters. I'll check out the links provided above. Thanks and keep the pics of the hold homes coming, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonTx Posted April 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 For example, this is how I usually find faux or real stone veneer. Even though I write this up, I really don't have much other than a few sentences in the IRC to go on unless I can convince the Super that the BIA works just as well for stone veneer as it does brick. Download Attachment: .jpg"] IMG_1948[1].jpg 60.8 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcramer Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 You don't need a lintel. You do need flashings, and weepholes just as with hard coat stucco or masonry veneer. Look at R703.7, 7.5 & 7.6 Or get the manufacturer's installation instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonTx Posted April 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 So, would it be correct to say that natural stone needs a support ledge but faux stone doesn't? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Originally posted by Donald Lawson . . . I acutally treat Faux Stone like brick and use the same standards. Typically faux stone will not be installed on a brick ledge here. It's simply hanging off the side of the building. . . I wouldn't treat it like brick. Think of it as stucco with really big aggregate in it. - Jim Katen, Oregon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Hi, Bottom line - treat it like stucco. It is adhered to lath over a double-layer of paper. There is no gap behind it like brick and it doesn't rest on a ledge. It needs to be carefully flashed and has to be able to drain. OT - OF!!! M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonTx Posted April 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Gotcha...thanks everyone. Mike, have JLC send you a commission check, I renewed my online membership just so I could read that article. I like Dennis's articles. I've referred several of my Stucco clients to RAM here in Houston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Hi, Well, you're doing better than I am. I just went to do a search and found myself locked out. Seems my boss over at JLC apparently forgot to renew my membership. It's the only perk I get for moderating that forum, so I'm feeling a little put out. Just shot him a letter. OT - OF!!! M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Fabry Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Work him for a lifetime membership while you're at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kteitel Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Another question on the same topic, I inspected a house that had stone veneer on the foundation, and the veneer extende below the soil. I called this out that in that it would wick moisture out of the soil and not let the water from the rain out. Was this a good call? There was concrete behind the stone veneer. Kevin Teitel House-Pro Inspections Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Hi, I wouldn't be as concerned with moisture wicking to that concrete foundation as I would with subs moving up behind the veneer to reach the sheathing and framing behind the fauxstone on the house above. Naturally one would expect that the guy applying the stone had completely buttered the back of each and there was continuous mortar from side to side from the soil upward, but how do you know? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcramer Posted April 6, 2005 Report Share Posted April 6, 2005 Originally posted by kteitel Another question on the same topic, I inspected a house that had stone veneer on the foundation, and the veneer extende below the soil. I called this out that in that it would wick moisture out of the soil and not let the water from the rain out. Was this a good call? There was concrete behind the stone veneer. Kevin Teitel House-Pro Inspections Sub termites and drainage. You have to let the water out, or it soaks through the concrete and destroys the lath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuccoman Posted April 8, 2005 Report Share Posted April 8, 2005 Hey Donald, The lick and stick stone is to be applied over 3.4 lath according to the manufacturer specs. The lath is supposed to be scratched just like for a three coat stucco system completely cover with mud. That is to help with holding the stone on the wall. Then you butter the back of the stones and stick the and dress up the joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hockstein Posted April 9, 2005 Report Share Posted April 9, 2005 Try this link for product info: http://www.culturedstone.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonTx Posted April 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2005 Thanks guys, now we're cooking!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobC Posted April 9, 2005 Report Share Posted April 9, 2005 Of the two choices that are available in my area I would choose this one. http://www.stonetile.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vamoose Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 Here is a good resource for stone veneer application, and instructions on on the website http://www.cutriverock.com Originally posted by Donald Lawson Does anyone have good resources for Faux Stone & stone veneer construction? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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