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So now I have these gaps between the tile and the original drywall occupied by Hardibacker, What is the best way to fill them in to match the drywall?

Can I just mud them up with some tape down the drywall seam?

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I think that might be the way to go. I don't think it will be easy tho, because the mud will shrink and sag. It will take a lot of layers to fill, and then it might be prone to cracking. But with tape, might work OK.

Cutting the backer board flush with the tiles is not going to be easy, but then you could fill the gaps with strips of drywall and only have to mud a seam.

Cut the existing drywall corner away, shim out a new drywall strip that goes from the tiles to the corner. That's a messy job, but eliminates that tricky seam. You then would have a corner bead to do.

If you can find some of that white hardboard, it might bring those gaps up flush to the existing drywall. I've has decent success taping and plastering drywall to wood transitions on corners of closet openings if the wood is clean.

Why didn't you figure this out before you got the tiles up? [:)]

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A drywaller at a recent party I was at said fill the gap with fix all, that powdered stuff in the can you mix with water. I had no pics to show him so he may have not been on the same page with me.

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This is how I have done it with Durock with no complaints. Fill the gap with mud and let that dry. Then I tape with a fiberglass mesh. I always use Durabond 20 from the brown bag for my scratch coat. It dries nice and hard. Then I will finish with the softer Durabond.

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What Lamb said, but use Durabond 90.

DURABOND 20 sets in about 20-30 minutes; DURABOND 45 in 30-80 minutes; DURABOND 90 in 85-130 minutes; and DURABOND 210 in 180-240 minutes.

The longer open time will give you a time to clean your tools and grab a beer before the finish coat. It's been months, what's another 90 minutes?

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What Lamb said, but use Durabond 90.

The longer open time will give you a time to clean your tools and grab a beer before the finish coat. It's been months, what's another 90 minutes?

Absolutely. DurBond 90, Easy Sand if you gotta, but Brown Bag is the best.

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Just a heads up, but if you layout the tile on the ground and get a number, then install your filler strip before you ever start tiling. Have your drywall overlap the outer edge of the tile by roughly 1/4". You can sand the compound much easier when it's still roughly a flat wall, and the overlapped edge will make for a clean detail on the end product.

I know it's too late now, but for the next time give it a try.

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John K, "Why didn't you figure this out before you got the tiles up"?

I be ignant. I don't come from a construction background.

Had 8th grade wood shop, made some dressers, hung all the doors and made the jams from scratch and did all the interior finish work at our house 20+ years ago. This was my 6th tile job in our house.

I'm still working on being as knowledgeable as Mike O was when he was 10.[:-bigeyes

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Agree with Ben, the time to do this was before any tile was set. Install the tile backer board an inch or so back from the extent of the tile, install drywall up to it, tape/sand/prime/paint the drywall, install the tile, using caulk that matches the grout at the edge of the tile.

It will take very skilled drywall finishing now that it's already tiled.

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