John Kogel Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 The new Ford Escape is supposed to replace the pickup and the sedan. It's a "cross-over" vehicle, they say.  The premise is that it will tow a little utility trailer, and I'm a utility kinda guy. We are lucky old George's XLT came with a factory hitch, bonus. Under the back bumper, a factory installed wiring harness, bonus? Wrong. The plug is installed and all taped up but there's no power to it. The manual warns that installing trailer lights can blow the electronics. Hokum, I thought, we do this all the time, tap into the tailight harness and drive away. What are they saying? Well here's what. The wiring in the 2009 Ford Escape is so flimsy and light gauge, it can't handle the load of an additional bulb. Saving $$ and reducing weight, I suppose. No kidding, the wire bundle to 3 tialight bulbs looks like the thinnest of speaker wire, black tape included. In the big fuse box are slots for trailer lights as follows, a 20 amp fuse, a 15 amp fuse, and no less than 3 relays, one for each signal and one for running lights. Installing the 3 relays at $30 apiece should do the trick, except ..... The slots for the 3 relays are duds. There are no contacts in there nor any wiring installed. Sheesh, what a hassle. I now have 3 options, solder leads to 3 relays and try to hook them up in the fuse box somehow. I've got the fuses to start from and can search for the trailer wiring. Buy an after market module with built-in relays that takes 12 v from the battery and micro-signals from the tailight wiring, Or, install 12v LED bulbs in my trailer lights, and just, old school, tap them into the tailight harness? Sheesh, what a hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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