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John Dirks Jr

project back porch enclosure

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It does make a bit of sense, but I think the correct way to install those doors is directly on the slab. You step over the bottom runner only. It is metal or vinyl-coated metal and has a flange. Better not have wood there because the door frame will have condensation under it.

There is a rubber gasket material with glue on one side that can be laid on the concrete and down the weather side to keep the edge dry. Then the wood sills if any are only under the pillar sections between the sliding doors. They can be attached with heavy duty glue and nails.

To install the sill plate, I use a masonry bit to drill thru the plate into the concrete. Then drill as deep as possible until you hit a hard rock. Cut the nail shorter to fit the depth of the drilled hole and use construction glue, very strong.

Re; the slope, it looks like the ground is humped up a bit on the right, maybe the picture is distorted.

If your gutter looks straight to you now you might just leave the slope. The key will be to have all horizontal lines looking straight when you're done. If the slab drops more than in inch or so,  you could pour a small curb on top of the slab to support a straight wall.

In that case you will also need to jack up the corner of the roof to get everything level. Not hard, just another day.

 

Edited by John Kogel

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Good info thanks.  

I have a  more questions.  

The framed pillars between the door assemblies I envision as 4x4 posts.  Although, should I nail together two 2x4’s instead of using single 4x4’s?   My thought is the double 2x4’s would be less likely to bow or twist over time. 

Also, is there a flange on the door frame that overlaps the framed opening or do the doors sit flush inside the opening?  I ask because I’m wondering if 3 1/2” is enough material between the separate door assemblies.  If there is a flange, will there be enough room, or will the flanges need trimming or framed post made wider than 3 1/2”?

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