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John Dirks Jr

project back porch enclosure

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It does make a bit of sense, but I think the correct way to install those doors is directly on the slab. You step over the bottom runner only. It is metal or vinyl-coated metal and has a flange. Better not have wood there because the door frame will have condensation under it.

There is a rubber gasket material with glue on one side that can be laid on the concrete and down the weather side to keep the edge dry. Then the wood sills if any are only under the pillar sections between the sliding doors. They can be attached with heavy duty glue and nails.

To install the sill plate, I use a masonry bit to drill thru the plate into the concrete. Then drill as deep as possible until you hit a hard rock. Cut the nail shorter to fit the depth of the drilled hole and use construction glue, very strong.

Re; the slope, it looks like the ground is humped up a bit on the right, maybe the picture is distorted.

If your gutter looks straight to you now you might just leave the slope. The key will be to have all horizontal lines looking straight when you're done. If the slab drops more than in inch or so,  you could pour a small curb on top of the slab to support a straight wall.

In that case you will also need to jack up the corner of the roof to get everything level. Not hard, just another day.

 

Edited by John Kogel

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Good info thanks.  

I have a  more questions.  

The framed pillars between the door assemblies I envision as 4x4 posts.  Although, should I nail together two 2x4’s instead of using single 4x4’s?   My thought is the double 2x4’s would be less likely to bow or twist over time. 

Also, is there a flange on the door frame that overlaps the framed opening or do the doors sit flush inside the opening?  I ask because I’m wondering if 3 1/2” is enough material between the separate door assemblies.  If there is a flange, will there be enough room, or will the flanges need trimming or framed post made wider than 3 1/2”?

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On 3/5/2019 at 8:51 AM, Tom Raymond said:

 

The real trick with the doors you have picked is making sure that the sills are flat. The directions will harp on plumb, level, square...but a flat sill is far more critical. Most of those doors aren't manufactured square.

 

 

This was great advice which I followed.  The doors are in and functioning well.  The rest of the project is coming along fine.  We decided to go with a wood laminate flooring.  We plan to use a good quality underlayment like this.    >   https://www.lowes.com/pd/pergo-gold-100-sq-ft-premium-3mm-flooring-underlayment/1000094785?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-flr-_-google-_-lia-_-166-_-stocklaminateflooring-_-1000094785-_-0&kpid&store_code=2594&k_clickID=go_1793073304_69358332156_346819489897_aud-299487635210:pla-533810695584_c_9007872&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxaXL69Wn4gIVh0GGCh2agQD5EAQYASABEgL4e_D_BwE

The LPG to NG conversion kit for the free standing stove works great.  I tested the stove in its position and its vents good with my configuration.

I'll sort some pictures and post soon.

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6 hours ago, Jim Katen said:

Looks great, John. But the dog needs a soft mat to lie on. 

Yes, and she also needs her nails clipped.  Sounds like someone’s dropping skittles on the floor when she walks.  We have dog beds all over the house.  And the Mrs never needs help finding reasons to buy more.  We have three beagles. 

Hows this for a bed?

 

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2 hours ago, Marc said:

Not too hot for the TV in the heating season?

All clearance to combustibles are met with extra to spare.  

As for heat radiating up onto the tv, we’ll have to find out.  But I doubt it  will be a problem. 

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Still working on finishing grade on the outside.  

There used to be a huge oak tree right there, 3’ diameter.  It was growing thick to the point it was almost touching the gutter. Tree experts took it out several years ago and ground the stump.  But remaining stump portions and roots were still in my way of getting the grade where I need it to be. 

I rented a stump grinder and went at it for about 3hrs.  Tree parts are still there but now everything is low enough for me to put a decent swale in. 

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One of these days, I'm going to combine a stand-behind dozer, like the Sutter 300, with a tilt blade equipped with laser sensors tied to hydraulics, and a laser transit capable of slopes and offer residential landscaping services like you're doing.

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I hear ya Marc.  All I can say is this back porch slab was always at risk of taking on water if you didn’t tend to any gathering debris during heavy rainfall.  Once the tree was taken out, even then we would have an issue now and then.  I fixed that by cutting some of the remaining roots that were damming things up.  So for a couple years now we’ve had no flooding.

After this additional stump grinding and grading, we should be in really good shape and able to handle monsoons without issue.  No other drainage issues anywhere on the property.  The sandy soil drains good and the basement has always been dry. 

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Got the trough graded with a beagle approved weed barrier.  In here goes rubber mulch.  We have discovered it works for us.  It’s not organic so it does not splatter dirt on the wall when pounded with rain.  It’s also lighter than dirt and decomposed material so it stays on the surface.  

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Graded, seeded, light watering, strawed, another light watering.  Mother Nature do your thing.  I’ll help you with a light watering each day until germination. Then, you make the roots dive for water. 

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