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Ideal SureTest #61-155 Question


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Lately I have to wiggle the power Cord to get the unit to work. It starts to work then craps out and I have to wiggle the cord again. I'm looking for a cold/bad solder joint but when I took it apart there is a ribbon connector going to the LCD display. Anyone ever remove this ribbon cable before and if so how? The damn things so little I don't want to wreck it.

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I had that problem and then just stopped using the cord and haven't had a problem since. When I absolutely need to, I'll pull out the cord, plug it in, and then I have to wiggle the cord end a little bit to get 'er to read without fluctuating in order to know what's what. Then the cord goes right back in the bag. One of these days, I'm going to remember to go down to the big box, get some materials and make myself up a new cord.

OT - OF!!!

M.

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Originally posted by Terence McCann

Lately I have to wiggle the power Cord to get the unit to work. It starts to work then craps out and I have to wiggle the cord again. I'm looking for a cold/bad solder joint but when I took it apart there is a ribbon connector going to the LCD display. Anyone ever remove this ribbon cable before and if so how? The damn things so little I don't want to wreck it.

Does it misbehave when you don't use the cord?

- Jim Katen, Oregon

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Originally posted by Jim Katen

Does it misbehave when you don't use the cord?

- Jim Katen, Oregon

Not sure I understand the question Jim.

You can't use it without the cord. The power cord is like that of a computer power cord, three prong male on one end and the other end is the female computer style plug. The three prong side goes into the electrical outlet to be tested and the female side plugs into the SureTest. It's where it plugs into the SureTest that I have to monkey around with to get it to work.

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Originally posted by Terence McCann

Originally posted by Jim Katen

Does it misbehave when you don't use the cord?

- Jim Katen, Oregon

Not sure I understand the question Jim.

You can't use it without the cord. The power cord is like that of a computer power cord, three prong male on one end and the other end is the female computer style plug. The three prong side goes into the electrical outlet to be tested and the female side plugs into the SureTest. It's where it plugs into the SureTest that I have to monkey around with to get it to work.

How odd. My 61-152 has a regular edison plug. You only use the cord when you need to. I'd assumed the 61-155 was the same.

I guess I'd start by testing the cord or swapping it out for a spare computer cord. If the fault's in the cord, it should be easy to fix.

If the fault's in the ST body, I'd send it to Ideal for repair.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

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Originally posted by Terence McCann

Originally posted by Jim Katen

How odd. My 61-152 has a regular edison plug. You only use the cord when you need to. I'd assumed the 61-155 was the same.

Wanna trade???

I'll gladly trade my ST 61-152 in exchange for an 85mm, F1.8, Super-Multi-Coated Takumar lens.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

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Terry,

I purchased a 'slightly used' Ideal from a fellow who left the business this past summer. Unit worked (sort of) and I wasn't quite sure of the results I was getting.

I sent it up to Ideal and they (after testing, etc.) sent me a new/updated replacement ... no charge ... and I wasn't the original purchaser. (is that a word?).

Ideal was very nice to deal with.

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Terry,

I've had a few cords (and 155's) go bad on me...probably due to rougher than necessary handling. The jiggling until it works thing sound very familiar.

There's a variety of other devices, such as computer monitors, that use the same female plug end. You might try one of those to see if it is the cord that's the problem. Ideal/Professional Equipment has replacement cords but you may be able to find a fairly short replacement at a used computer store.

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Hi,

Okay, I think I understand; it's got a female D-plug on the tester end. Okay, got an extra power cord for your computer lying around, right (I've always got a half dozen or so)? shorten it to the exact same length of the one you got with you tester, solder the conductor splices together, use some shrink tubing on them, and then use shrink tubing to splice the two sections of cord together. Now uou've got a new cord of the exact same length that should work.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

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