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Metal vent through roof


msteger

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First of all, you do not have enough info. to comment completely on this installation. That's why I said get a Level II inspection per NFPA 211, Ch. 14.

You need to identify the mfr. of the vent and check their listed instructions. What is going on under the roof? What support is there? With that vent at an angle, it would be easy for that elbow that must be in the attic to blow apart. Also, if you look at the angle of the vent in relation to the party wall, there is the question of clearance to combustibles. You also have issues with vent sizing , firestopping, attic insulation shielding, etc.

Why would there be rust on the vent? What corroded the pipe? Is that rust just exterior or from the inside-out? Since no pics from the roof, it would appear this inspector did not get on the roof, which would preclude him from commenting more fully on this installation. This means we are all still speculating, which is practically worthless without complete info.

The lesson here is, you see something out of the ordinary which raises a red flag so you should simply recommend the Level II and move on.

Hearthman

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Originally posted by Hearthman

First of all, you do not have enough info. to comment completely on this installation. That's why I said get a Level II inspection per NFPA 211, Ch. 14.

You need to identify the mfr. of the vent and check their listed instructions. What is going on under the roof? What support is there? With that vent at an angle, it would be easy for that elbow that must be in the attic to blow apart. Also, if you look at the angle of the vent in relation to the party wall, there is the question of clearance to combustibles. You also have issues with vent sizing , firestopping, attic insulation shielding, etc.

Why would there be rust on the vent? What corroded the pipe? Is that rust just exterior or from the inside-out? Since no pics from the roof, it would appear this inspector did not get on the roof, which would preclude him from commenting more fully on this installation. This means we are all still speculating, which is practically worthless without complete info.

The lesson here is, you see something out of the ordinary which raises a red flag so you should simply recommend the Level II and move on.

Hearthman

Sorry, but IMHO a Phase II for an appliance vent would be on the line of using a D2 to work on the backyard garden. A little overkill. IMO, a Phase II is for a fireplace, stove, etc. Not saying that a Phase II would not work, but then you would need the appropriate person to make the repairs..

In the home inspector profession a vent pipe like that is toast and needs replacing. Why did it rust? I don't know, it could just be old and worn out. If the boiler and WH are working properly, the pipe needs replacing. WJ, summed it up fairly well.

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I recently saw a Level II performed on a pre-fab fireplace and was surprised by how simplistic the process was. Maybe it was the person doing the work, but the inspection was far from exhaustive.

I've seen tons of rusted and/or cracked B-vents that were pristine below the roof line. Doesn't the zinc coating just erode away after awhile and Mother Nature starts doing her thing?

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Like any galvanized metal, when exposed, esp. to acid rain, it can rust. However this rust pattern warrants closer inspection and not just a can of paint. Before you paint it, do you know the interior aluminum lining is intact? Has the insulative shell been compromised such as by screws from support brackets?

Again, nobody has addressed the question of what is going on with that crooked vent in the attic. Elbows need support and this one is certainly a red flag that just possibly, something might be wrong here. Is there rust on the pipe in the attic? Are those joints secure and the pipe properly supported?

Tell me what you think would happen if the elbow in the attic blew apart-

You should identify the brand B-vent then look to the mfr's listed instructions. Understand that any offset or slope causes restriction and unnecessary restrictions should be removed.

No Scott, I stand by the industry standard of a Level II inspection as stated in Chapter 14 of NFPA 211. Its not just for fireplaces and stoves either.

Yes, you want a pro to inspect the vent. Yes, you want a pro to correct or replace it. Why would that matter in your decision to call it out? If it doesn't look like the typical installations illustrated in the mfrs. manuals, then call it out.

You brought up one last good point Scott: Are the boiler and WH operating and venting properly? Are they spilling combustion fumes? Any signs of rust or flame rollout?

Hearthman

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Dang,

I thought I was being brief and to the point;

"The vent flue for the boiler and water heater is in need of immediate repair or replacement. It is not straight, it is not properly supported, it is rusted, and it is leaning to a degree that will allow rain to enter the interior of the flue. Contact a reputable HVAC contractor for repair costs and options."

But, I could have used half the words and said more (the flashing part);

"The vent pipe is leaning, it's rusty, and it's crudely installed. Get an HVAC technician to install a new pipe, and get a roofer to make sure that the new pipe is properly flashed (waterproofed)."id="blue"> (WJ)

Tim

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