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I don't recognize that bow front. The gold trim reminds me of older Majestic inserts.

What instructions are you looking for? It only has a primary air control and probably a blower speed control. Now that it's a stove insert and not a just a masonry fireplace, you do know there's a different hearth extension requirement?

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I don't recognize that bow front. The gold trim reminds me of older Majestic inserts.

What instructions are you looking for? It only has a primary air control and probably a blower speed control. Now that it's a stove insert and not a just a masonry fireplace, you do know there's a different hearth extension requirement?

No, I did not know there's different requirement. I won't get far dodging the truth so thanks for letting me know. I know from now on. Is there a standard or is that a manufacturer specific spec?

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"How to determine if there is a connection to the flue?"

I first look to see if it is visible from stove interior-a simple camera shot will often do the trick. In the case of baffles or catalytic converters or any other number of "burn-efficiency enhancers" blocking simple site-lines, I snake in the borescope.

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Having once experienced a roaring chimney fire, fueled by creosote collected on the top and sides of an insert that had been slid into a masonry fireplace (with 12" flue tile) you bet I'll be "invasive". This was 40 years ago, and I have preached about this issue whenever I have had the opportunity.

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  • 1 month later...

Insert woodstove rating plates are typically on the sides or rear of the firebox. With an insert, you would have to swing the stove out onto the hearth extension to get to it. If the stove has a full length listed liner as it should then this would be virtually impossible without disconnecting the liner. BTW, these liners must include the requisite insulation for the clearance to combustibles in the chimney. You would also need proper floor and mantel protection as prescribed in the listed instructions.

Most mfrs. make a bay fron inset so who knows what brand this is without the rating plate. If you find an old stove that does not carry markings indicatiing EPA Phase II emissions certification, you should recommend replacement.

HTH

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  • 5 months later...

On most inserts you can check things out simply by removing the surround.

Then you can see how the insert is connected:

1. slammer install, means no pipe at all, just an open flue from the insert that vents into the masonry chimney - very bad

2. direct connect - a short length of pipe that goes past the smoke shelf to the first clay tile - better, but hard to clean. The pipe has to be rated for installation inside a masonry chimney - usually SS. Additionally, the clay tiles need to be evaluated as usual.

3. Full liner - a SS flex or rigid liner that connects to the flue outlet on the insert and continues the full length of the chimney and terminates at the top with a cap. Sometimes insulated (recommended) sometimes not, but might be required by the manufacture if clay is not up to par or for other reasons.

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On most inserts you can check things out simply by removing the surround.

Then you can see how the insert is connected:

1. slammer install, means no pipe at all, just an open flue from the insert that vents into the masonry chimney - very bad

2. direct connect - a short length of pipe that goes past the smoke shelf to the first clay tile - better, but hard to clean. The pipe has to be rated for installation inside a masonry chimney - usually SS. Additionally, the clay tiles need to be evaluated as usual.

3. Full liner - a SS flex or rigid liner that connects to the flue outlet on the insert and continues the full length of the chimney and terminates at the top with a cap. Sometimes insulated (recommended) sometimes not, but might be required by the manufacture if clay is not up to par or for other reasons.

John,

Are you a chimney "specialist" in my area? Do you do chimney/fireplace masonry work too? If so, send me email or IM.

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