Jer

Yeah I'm going to give them a call Monday morning. I tried using the furnace when I just got up here and same thing the gas would fire then stop and restart ( did it twice actually). I guess its good that I have a 10 year parts and labor right? It has to be something different from a flame rod which he cleaned. I don't know if I should question what I payed for on Friday? I guess he did clean the flame rod and the burners and that is something that is a yearly service they offer outside warranty.

Yeah I think its best to call them. I will call Monday morning. The furnace wont be on all weekend.

Thanks Kurt, I tried it again tonight and again it happen. I should give them a call back then?

I had the company that installed my furnace come over today as they recommend every two years having it cleaned and next month would be two years. Well they came and did the job I guess the flame rod was caked pretty good in carbon so they cleaned it and had the furnace running. After they left I turned it off. Well its a cold day here so I went to turn it back on and it didn't light the first time? the gas came on but didn't ignite? so I left it for a few seconds and the gas came back on ignited fine. I called him and he told me that's normal that sometimes it wont catch on the first try and that it sometimes could take 3 times to ignite. I trust them as they are great and my whole family has been using them for close to 30 years. The furnace has a 10 year parts and warranty so if they have to come back it wont cost me anything. its just weird as it has never taken two times for it to ignite. But I guess they know what there talking about. Two days ago it was 100f and today it struggled to get into the mid 30's Just curious though, Is it normal for it to sometimes take more then once to ignite? Thanks Jeremy

well that was the problem. Turned the power off removed the old one, installed a new one and stuck a piece of electrical tape over top of the wiring terminals for piece of minds. Light turns on faster now too.

So putting a piece of electrical tape over the exposed scews is a bad thing? I have never done that when replacing a switch. Im just asking because thats what I have heard and seen some people do?

I have changed out a switch before and installed light fixtures.

Im starting to think it might be the switch causing problems also? could it be being flicked off and on hundreds of time might have caused it to wear out?

Hi Guys Kind of a question that is related to my other problem but it might be a useful standalone question I thought the previous homeowner was using electrical tape to tape wires together but it appears when cutting away the tape that he did use the nuts but also taped them over? Is that common? Also when installing a new switch is it common to put a piece of electrical tape over the sides covering the wiring terminals? maybe to prevent anything rubbing against it?

Ahh Cheers, The ones that had been done shotty I have since gone back and put on wire nuts. We had all new electrical outlets put in by a electrician when we moved in. And the home inspaection didnt note anything wrong with the wiring. We also had a new breaker panel installed. The only outlets that didnt get replaced new were three or four in the basement but have never had any problems. When I called him "ol electrical tape " I was just being smart, I only really saw it in a couple spots.

What do you mean by that? Anyways guys, Hi Guys I had the fixture down and there are wire nuts attached firmly. I also used my voltage detector tool and it wasnt picking anything up at all? weird as everything was working yesterday. Also there seems to be power at the light switch

Hi Guys The wife went to turn on the light in the bathroom fixture and there was nothing. Tried changing bulbs and nothing. Know if the guy I bought the house from was up to his out wiring tricks he probably used electrical tap to connect the hot wire from the fixture to the house wiring, finding lots of that. So I have to go back with marrettes and make the appropriate connections. Failing that, Would anybody have any idea on why im not getting any illumination in the bathroom? Maybe im missing something. It was working before. I just hope the wires have come loose from "ol, electrical tape Kevin" (Why didn't this guys use marettes its not like they cost much????) and I hope it will be a quick job for me tomorrow. But seeing im a few wobbly pops in and tired, its just best to wait until the morning and use the other bathroom for the night. Any thoughts on what it could be, plus some tips would be great. Real not confident with electricity yet but this seems like a project I could handle. Jeremy

Thanks Kurt, [] Yeah it sounds like it will be easier to just do the repair [:-thumbu].

Perfect thanks Kurt. Seeing as its pushed back in for now, would applying any caulking around underneath it do anything to buy some time?

Thanks Tom, Is that something that can be done by me or best left to a professional? I take it it's a small job?

Thanks for the advice Kurt. But its not a "huge" problem to fret and worry about right? I also noticed that it was only moving where the two pieces butt together? it looks like there is a shim or something between the two

Thanks Kurt, so should it have been "cemented" I dont know if thats the correct term with limestone?[:-dunce] Or is something that floats in the opening? again dont know if thats the correct term? Is there anything I can do temporailry aside from just push it back in if it moves out again? I have no idea how long it has been out? it must have been some what gradual as I just noticed it.

Thanks Kurt, I don't know what its is,lol Is there anything i can do to secure it in though? also something like that isn't a structural thing right? The wife thinks the house is going to fall over[]

Hi Fellas I attached a picture that I hope you can have a look at and answer for me. Notice the cement blocks that are under the window frame, there are 2 pieces the run the length of the window. Today I notice that one of them had moved out about 1/2 inch??? I was able to push it back in but is this a really big problem that need to be fixed? I assume yes or are they supposed to float in there? Would this be due the harsh winters and extremely hot summers causing expansion and contraction? any help would be great Jeremy Click to Enlarge 49.69?KB

Cheers Guys, I bought a solder ball valve and outdoor faucet and replaced it yesterday. I was pretty easy to do. Jeremy

Hi Fellas, I am going to have to replace my outdoor faucet as it has been leaking lately and also want to replace the shutoff to it in the basement as it's looking rough also. While Im sure I can run the new faucet through the wall after removing the old one pretty easy I am stumped as to how I can replace the shutoff valve? I want to use a ball valve instead of the old style compression one that is already. Is this a easy job to do? But what stumps me as how do you solder copper pipe into a ball valve? or does it somehow crimp down onto the pipe? is that what a sharkbite ( I think thats what there called ?) does? any tips would be great Jeremy

cheers Marc But Im going to stick with incandescent bulbs

haha, it should I do know how to balance my check book, change a tire, and do my own taxes. Electricity on the other hand is where I don't know alot about and try to keep a respect for it. I figure asking as many questions as I can is the best way to learn.

Thanks for the help Jim I appreciate it. Just for the heck of it. What happens if it gets hooked up wrong? like worst case scenario type of deal? for example wire gets hooked up wrong? ground wire gets hooked up wrong? I always like to think ahead of a situation to know "worst case" if something did go wrong. Like do I get a shock or burn the house down, or both Again thanks for all the help you have lent Jeremy

Cheers Jim, I will keep this post in mind for when I go up there to take a look ( I might print it off ). Like I was saying the bracket that comes with the fixture has a green grounding screw on it. Once that bracket is screwed to the metal outlet box( assuming it is metal ) that would negate having to buy a grounding screw wouldnt it? or a, I misreading your post,lol