rayzur9

Ive got the same cracking from the nail outwards on just about every piece of Hardie Plank installed on my house, built in 06. To me, it just looks like typical "KB-Homes" shoddy work and those who are "doing the work us lazy americans dont want to do"... Just because you can do it cheap and fast, doesnt mean you can do it right.

I just wanted to follow up on this issue with the furnace. At first, I replaced the thermostat on the wall. This didnt help the furnace, or make a change in the operation of it. I crawled up in the attic again, and had my wife turn on the furnace so I could listen and watch the cycle once more, and noticed an audible noise from the timer controller. An old Honeywell ST9141A1002 controller. I went to HVAC Parts Outlet online and purchased a flame sensor/ignitor (35$) and the upgraded version of the controller board, which was part number ST9120U1011 for about 100 bucks. This controller was an easy install barring 2 wire connections I had to change to 1/4" to fit the terminals on the controller, the diagnostic light on the new controller flashed dim/bright for normal operation, and I am extremely pleased to say it seems to have enabled the furnace to maintain set thermostat temperature. For 3 days now the furnace has come on to maintain house thermostat temperature, and cycles normally again. Yay! Thanks for all your help guys. Click to Enlarge 76.06 KB

You guys have been a big help in the past for me, and again I really appreciate your input and expertise. had the unit off all day and getting home from work it was 65 in the house, comfortable enough, but I turned the heat on at the stat and it was set at 69. It went thru proper startup sequence, ran fine and blew , warm for about 15 to 20 mins. top temperature reached was 66F. about right for the space between furnace and stat therm. then it shut off. no blower fan, normal diag light bright/dim. I noticed the wiring diag above shows that batteries replaced properly make the neutral unnecessary. The timer control module is mounted to a panel inside the funace that looks removable, (3 screws, foam gasket around). Is this an entryway to the air chamber directly before the exchanger, or actually into the exchanger itself?

Ive got 5 wires. Blue is not used, white wired to W, red wired to RC, Red jumper from RC to RH. Green to G, yellow to Y. It looks like it was wired per schema below. Click to Enlarge 18.7 KB Click to Enlarge 53.44 KB

You know, they DID add some sort of level switch in the drain pan of the A/C condensor that had to be tapped into the supply coming out of the furnace. Big 12 ga wire nutted to little 18ga. wires...

After much scouring of the internet, I am finding that many of the components, such as the timer control module above, as well as the SmartValve gas valve, heat exchanger, and just about every other part in this furnace I have has been a nightmare for people all over the states. Lucky me. Luckily, Honeywell has many replacement parts. I will attempt a factory reset of the thermostat tonite, and see if that does any good.

"ARS Service Express" when installing the new carrier a/c installed the White Rodgers thermostat. Hausdok, Consolidated Industries filed for Chapter 11 and was sued in a class action lawsuit where they had to pay for partial replacement of furnaces purchased prior to 2001. The last date for filing a claim with that class action was back in April I believe. They pretty much dont have a "technical assistance" department anymore. Click to Enlarge 47.85 KB Click to Enlarge 66.6 KB

Thanks very much for the ideas. JK, the stat has a small switch for elec/gas. It is placed on the gas setting. Also, the anticipator is digital, and changed by pressing the arrow keys on the keypad. It currently is set at factory setting of no anticipation fore or aft. Terrence, the fan i was referring to was the draft inducer motor which starts normally, , then ignition occurs, then the circulating fan comes on. I watched the furnace last night, and after it brought the house up to stat temp setting, it turned off, household temperature got lower, stat called for heat, draft inducer started, HSI glowed for about half a second and it clicked off. No fans, nothing. Shut everything down. waited 2 hours, turned it all back on, turned on the heat, the furnace worked for 20 minutes warming the house about 3 degrees, but not to stat setting, and the furnace shut off. One thing though, the circulating fan no longer runs forever until I shut it off. It seems to run its normal 2 to 3 minutes as if the furnace has satisfied the stat temp setting. Before, the flames would go out and the fan would run until we shut it off. Now, its running its normal 2 to 3 minutes to cool combustion chamber and shutting off which seems its normal operation, except the furnace has not heated the house up to set temp on stat. Looking at throwing parts at it. Planning on starting with the Q3400A HSI/Sensor assembly.

just wanted to say I'm in Houston Tx. Most if not ALL of the hvac service companies here farm out their jobs to "less than communicable" contractors or "whoevers available in the area". I might as well go stand out on the street and drop trou.

We have a Consolidated Industries model MBA080NH4R furnace, natural gas, with hot surface ignitor. Control board is a honeywell 406650. Ever since we had our air conditioner (outside and attic split system) replaced, which came with new thermostat (basic digital readout type, though not programmable), our heater has exhibited some issues. Say the house was 63F. we turn on the heat and set it to 69F. The fan in the furnace will kick on, the HSI glows, the flames ignite, nice centered blue flames, I see the flame sensor glowing, and warm air is blowing out of the vents in the rooms like it should be, but just as the wall thermostat reaches around 67F, I notice the air is no longer warm coming from the vents. Upon checking the furnace, I see the fan is still on, but the flames are not. The diagnostic light flashes dim/bright as is noted to be normal operation per diagnostic code table. The furnace brought the house up to 69F at one point later on in the night, satisfying the tstat setting, but when the house dropped back down to 67F, and the furnace began its startup sequence, it sometimes lights and blows warm air for a few minutes, then the flames go off, and the fan stays on(set to auto). I at one point saw the HSI start to glow, then go out. So I just shut it off for a couple of hours. If we turn it back on, it rarely but usually does not ignite with flames, but just blows ambient air. At times I have been able to turn the power off in the attic switch and turn it back on to "reset" it, but that doesnt seem to do anything anymore. Even though the diagnostic light glows bright/dim at all times, throughout all this, it still acts like what the manual says occurs with a burner limit circuit open. I just dont get how it can work nicely for thirty minutes at one time, satisfy the tstat, but then not be able to come back on .