joebann

Thanks for all the advice. The rapid responses REALLY helped me to piece together enough of an understanding to (I believe) address the issue. I don't think it was as bad as I originally thought, though I do agree that further inspection of ALL windows is necessary. Here's what I did with this window. After removing the surrounding siding and sheet metal stuff - I saw that the WRB (tar paper) came short 5 inches from the window... but was cut around the window and continued down (which was good). I also discovered the window cap/drip cap on top of the window was not attached to the house... it was just the horizontal section of the drip cap cut off and screwed into the window (shown in lower part of picture - yup that flat dirty looking thing), therefore it allowed water to run into the gap between the window and the wall. So what I did was purchase a new drip cap that covered the top of the window AND attached 2 inches up the wall (upper part of picture)... then I covered that with some WRB self-adhesive membrane material up behind the existing tar paper. (sample on upper part of picture) In my mind this should allow any moisture to run down the tar paper, onto the membrane, into the drip cap and run off to either side. So no more exposed plywood. WRB layered with higher levels overlapping lower levels, all leading to a new WHOLE drip cap. HOPEFULLY this would have been the fix a contractor would have done. Or at very least a suitable fix that will last until the window needs to be redone. After doing all that I dismantled the section over the sliding door and fortunately discovered they DID use a whole drip cap on the sliding door section and everything looks good there... so I can only assume the window was done on Friday at 5pm, and they just slapped something together to look finished. So I'm hopeful the rest of the house isn't as bad as this window... though I'll have to see. I would have posted pictures of the work in progress, but I just wanted to get it done before the rain. I really hope my line of thinking is correct... but IT JUST survived a good rain storm with no leaks! Thanks again to everyone, I wouldn't have been able to piece things together without your help. edit: I'm not 100% sure if I did all this... but must sleep now... I'll try and dicipher in the morning. Joe

Marc: here's a picture. I'm assuming the band across was just to start the siding up from above the windows and doors. This is how all the houses (new) were built.

Ok, thanks for bearing with me... Here's where I'm at... I got some of the siding off and here's what it looks like: The WRB stops about 5 inches before it reaches the opening of the window leaving 5 inches of exposed plywood. Then there's nothing that stops water from running into the top of the window into the house. Here's my question - how do I seal this up properly? (Bare in mind I'm just a dude trying to fix his house, no expert at this. Didn't even know what WRB was till yesterday.) I'm assuming that I'm supposed to have some type of WRB from the house to the window. 1. What's the best stuff to use for that? The same black paper stuff? 2. How do I properly attach it from the house to the window? As there is a 1 inch gap from the end of the plywood to the top of the window. 3. I don't completely know where the water is supposed to go when it runs down the WRB when it meets the window. Over the front of the window? Advice appreciated. Thanks, Joe

Ok, I've removed the metal band - and here's the pic: There's a piece of wood that's been nailed across the WRB, but the WRB does not seem to continue under the wood. Here's a closeup: Then following the wood down it meets the top of the window. (Don't know if that can be seen.

Thank you for all the responses, they really helped to guide my searching. I spent a good few hours last night learning more about WRB and how vinyl siding is supposed to be put on. As well as how windows are supposed to be flashed. I will remove some of the siding shortly (weather permitting) and see what's going on - then go from there. Joe

If I remove the flashing, there is bare wood. The wood has about a 3 inch gap. If I remember correctly (as I opened it up last year in the fall) if I look into the 3 inch gap of the wood, I can see insulation. So when water gets into the flashing gap, it then runs into that 3 inch gap in the wood, which gets the top wood panel of the inside of the window wet, and the rest of the water runs down side of the window between the wall. What should be there? Is rainscreen wall the same as blueskin or ice and water shield? This is what someone suggested I put up... Thanks, (sorry for the basic terminology) Joe

This is the top left of the window. I hope this is what you wanted. This picture includes what the join of the flashing looks like. (Yes, I'm using duct tape to keep the water out.)

I'm getting water in the house - and I've found that where the flashing is supposed to be joined there is a 1/2 inch gap that is allowing the water to run into the house. (top arrow) (I've posted a picture at: ) The flashing is supposed to act as a channel. What's the best way to fix the gap in the flashing to prevent any more leaking? I've been told to take the flashing off, and overlap it better to eliminate the gap, but I don't see how that will be water tight. Any suggestions? Thanks! Joe