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  1. Marc, Don't you mean that the eave flashing should be beneath the underlayment? Whoops! You're right. Thanks. Marc ....there is most likely no underlayment (or decking). Those roof panels are probably attached directly to the purlins............Greg That is correct, the panels are attached directly to the purlins.
  2. No, there isn't. If water gets under that ridge in the metal roofing (shown in 2nd picture), there nothing to prevent it from getting behind the veneer, no flashing or closure strips. Thus, I was wondering is it would be possible to perhaps retrofit some type of flashing between the top of the brick veneer wall and the bottom of the metal roofing to make that space watertight and prevent water from getting behind the brick veneer wall?
  3. Thanks for the responses. I have included a few more pictures of the gutter system. I think a lot of water is getting behind the veneer from the top (refer to 2nd picture) since there is no flashing or closure strips up there. Do the gutters look alright otherwise? As it stands, I feel like we need to remove the veneer and start over, but their is simply no funds to do that at this time ..... unless we borrow. Click to Enlarge 37.02?KB Click to Enlarge 19.58?KB
  4. Thanks for your help. I sure do appreciate the responses. We were literally a few weeks from having services in our new facility, but I am glad we can work through these issues now rather than later. A few updates: The insurance adjuster will be out this Saturday. I did some more investigating today and realized that there are no closure strips underneath the edges of the corrugated metal roofing. Rainfall (especially wind-driven) essentially has a free pass over the gutter and under the raised ridge on the metal roofing to behind the brick veneer wall. I guess there is also the possibility of wind blowing the water in the overwhelmed gutters through these openings and behind the wall as well. Since there is no flashing or weep holes at the bottom of the brick,the water doesn't have anywhere to go except over the 1+3/4" high brick ledge and into the building. Hence, I was able to squirt water into this space and behind the brick veneer where it then ran down the backside of the wall and into the building behind the stud walls. Somebody stated that we should drill weep holes now, but I suggested that the effectiveness of such would be limited without any flashing in place. Right? So here is our approach for now: - Get closure strips installed underneath the edges of the corrugated metal roofing to try and limit the amount of water getting behind the veneer - Apply a silane/siloxane based water repellent to the brick veneer (any ideas on which is best?) - Install a drainage system (an initial estimate includes running downspouts into a 12" pipe with catch basins, etc for around $7600) Any other ideas? Again, your replies are very much appreciated by us all.
  5. Hi and thanks for your response. Unfortunately, I do not have any pictures of the metal siding actually being installed ..... just the typical before and after pictures. We actually have not checked the gutters and downspouts yet, but I am fairly certain the rainfall rate (approx. 3"-4"/hr, perhaps greater) was enough to overwhelm them given the slow movement of the hurricane. Now, we are obviously finding it difficult to test various failure points given our inability to reproduce those extreme wind/rainfall conditions.
  6. More Pictures. notice mortar patched beneath bottom brick layer close to downspout Click to Enlarge 63.36 KB bottom brick layer Click to Enlarge 71.87 KB wet corner Click to Enlarge 65.38 KB broad view of east side of the building Click to Enlarge 35.69 KB
  7. Pictures of church building Red Iron Click to Enlarge 70.05 KB Metal Siding Click to Enlarge 82.08 KB east side with downspouts and brick veneer Click to Enlarge 65.58 KB downspout close to front entrance Click to Enlarge 60.58 KB south side of building Click to Enlarge 68.47 KB
  8. We are in a small rural county (George), so we are used to having to look into the bigger cities of Hattiesburg, Biloxi, Gulfport, Mobile (AL) to get what we need. Thanks for all the help and input.
  9. Thanks for your reply. So you recommend getting an inspector out to look at it? Approx. how much would that cost (~6000 ft2 building) and how would I go about finding a reputable inspector?
  10. I am a member of a rural Methodist Church in Southern Mississippi. We are working to complete a brand new facility and are probably 85% complete. It is a metal building (red iron w/ metal wall studs and sheetrock) with brick veneer on the South and East Sides only. The brick veneer was installed directly over the corrugated metal siding on those sides. On the south and east sides, we have gutters that empty directly into flower beds that are awaiting landscaping (no drainage system). We have a concrete parking lot. During Hurricane Isaac, we received a great deal (15"-20") of wind driven rain on that south and east side of the building as you can imagine. Thursday, I found considerable amounts of water in the building and all over our brand new floor covering (wood + carpet + vct). However, none was noticed to have entered on the west or north walls. Upon further inspection, I noticed our veneer has no weeps holes or flashing, and the brick overhangs the brick ledge by an 1" or 2" in some spots. None of us are builders/experts, and we are struggling to determine the entry point for the water (we ruled out the obvious) as well as what to do to correct the problem. I can post pictures if needed and any help would certainly be appreciated.
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