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  1. This way, any electricity that finds its way onto the water pipes will instantly trip a breaker. To achieve this, the pipes have to be connected to the neutral terminal bar at the service or to some point on the grounding electrode system That is certainly a more thorough explanation than I have ever heard. I'm curious if you don't mind me asking, where is the neutral supposed to be bridged at? Does this have anything to do with the bonding of the ground to the neutral bar at a panel?
  2. While I would agree inspectors should not be pushed into a position of a how-to instructor, I would fully disagree that they do not need to explain themselves, give the code they are relying on, or answer questions PRIOR to work being done if there applicable codes they will enforce related to work on your home. These people work for us, and too many forget that. They act like demi-gods that pick and choose what to say and enforce. That just isn't their job. Too much of the code seems "flexible" or open to interpretation - if they are going to play it that way, then you have to be specific on what THEY want. I have had the building department in my city actually tell me to completely BUILD something and then they will tell me if it is ok, or if I have to tear it down completely (a cement block wall). They were not interested in plans, or giving information on any local requirement outside of state regulations. They charge to review plans, so why don't they review them?? ?It is the first responsibility of every citizen to question authority.? #8213; Benjamin Franklin I'm not arguing with the inspector, I just want to know I'm not being screwed over because someone is taking advantage of a situation.
  3. There is a breaker panel with GFI breakers a few feet away, there is a piece of NM flex conduit running into the hot tub panel (though a hole that is provided and secures the flex conduit to the hot tub control box). The flex conduit is the question, this electrician said it had to be rigid conduit and buried in the ground. I have never seen a small above ground spa wired this way. Does this help? What other details would help? What's the distance between the panel and the hot tub? (Is it more than 6 feet?) Does the conduit run over the surface of a patio or walkway? How many bends does it have? (Do they total more than 360 degrees?) Is it plain LFNC or is it LFNC-B? Is it in a location where it's subject to physical damage? * It is about 7' from the panel to the closest point on the spa. * There is no walkway between the panel and spa. * It is just laying on the ground, any bends are coincidental besides 90' going up into box on both ends. * It is LFNC-B * while it is outside, I don't believe there is anything that could cut or otherwise damage it. The stairs usually cover most of it - then it is under foliage. I put up a couple pictures in case this helps. Click to Enlarge 71.03 KB Click to Enlarge 92.15 KB
  4. Thanks! This document is pretty easy to understand. I like it! So, I'm glad I'm going to put it on its own switch (city said it didn't matter, but I like the idea and seems to be more compliant), and may take out the light since it is within 3' horizontally and install a light/fan combo instead. Which is too bad as the fixtures all match inside the bath and the adjacent room but I'm not sure it is damp location approved. Thank you again for finding this one!
  5. There is a breaker panel with GFI breakers a few feet away, there is a piece of NM flex conduit running into the hot tub panel (though a hole that is provided and secures the flex conduit to the hot tub control box). The flex conduit is the question, this electrician said it had to be rigid conduit and buried in the ground. I have never seen a small above ground spa wired this way. Does this help? What other details would help?
  6. Thank you... I will check the types asap.
  7. Absolutely, I'm trying. I've asked him some questions, it still isn't clear on things and the inspector has told something different in writing, vs on the phone, vs. email. I'm trying to keep him to email or in writing now so I can show I did what was asked. It is hard when the target keeps moving, that's why I wanted to find all the applicable codes so I can understand more fully. California apparently ran into a problem of homes being too air-tight, and not providing enough air circulation due to tough energy-efficiency rules. The code enforcement manager helped me on a visit to city hall once and he made comment about it being a bit crazy now and tough for them to keep up on all the new rules and trying to explain why to people. I think I'm going to insist the electrician switch it separately, vent it through the roof, and use a standard 50cfm unit. I hope this timer thing doesn't come up from the inspector later (he didn't call it out previously) but two electricians brought it up. There is no room to put this kind of device in the wall in question. Thanks for your input.
  8. Well, I would agree that the original electric service condition prior to my purchase of the home was suspect. Well, I found it just unsafe. I think the big issue is from the main service panel the power line runs into a sub panel, and from there goes to three other panels with multiple circuits in each. I wish I had a larger service to the property, but changing this could be complicated. The main breaker has never tripped due to electrical usage (I did test it as I found other breakers that didn't work, so I wanted to make sure it did) in over 5 years. I'm trying to become as knowledgeable about the issues as I can, and keep from doing unnecessary work as well as keep my expenses down. I am hoping that you are correct. I've had a few electricians out, unfortunately I get VERY different answers so far from each of them. It seems to just get more complicated over something that seemed to me should have been a simple thing to fix. This forum is helping me definitely sort out the type of electricians that I've called. I appreciate all the input very much.
  9. I agree I don't want to cause problems. I also don't think we should be slaves to just just whatever a bureaucrat wants to say if he/she is wrong. He actually complimented a lot of the work done, he thought a contractor did it, but actually I did all the work. I already got him to admit a couple other items isn't in the code that he tried to require me to do, in a very polite way of course - asking where this was in the code so I could make sure it was carefully followed - then he said he couldn't find it and I could ignore it. I don't even mind hiring an electrician if I know exactly why and a scope is well defined. He just seemed in a hurry.
  10. I pulled permits for some other work. The work in question actually isn't the work that I did, it was from past owners that is the larger issue. The only items that came up of my personal work were smaller items. For example, I ran other receptacles off of the GFI in the bathroom, this isn't allowed apparently now. This was a simple fix. The main service panel (100amp) apparently didn't have a permit (which was done when the city widened the street and all service was converted to underground, about 30 years ago) and a permit was pulled but without a final inspection for a sub-panel placed between the house panel and the main service panel. This seemed to concern them, and apparently why they asked for a load balance report.
  11. What do you mean? I don't know what else you want to know that wasn't stated or implied above. I pulled permits for some work, when I called for an inspection the inspector saw other items and brought up permits that were expired. They have inspection cards and he wrote that on the card and said he didn't want to write everything down and he wants a licensed electrician to do a load calculation and inspect everything and fix all code violations. I'm not sure how this will work as the house was built in the 60's, or how far this will go.
  12. The long and short of it is there were some expired permits and others that were never issued from previous owners (some going back 30 years). I also remodeled the bathroom to fix the plumbing.
  13. There are permits that were never issued and expired permits from previous owners (some going back 30 years!) that the city is now forcing me to pay for the permits and correct. I don't have a problem correcting problems, who doesn't want things safer? The inspector wrote on the inspection card2 that I MUST hire a licensed electrician to do a load calculation and correct all code violations. He told me (verbally) he didn?t want to write it all down for me. Can the city FORCE me to pay someone to do simple things like replace a bad receptacle, GFI, or replace a breaker? I am unemployed right now and every extra expense hurts ? so I really need to keep these expenses low. I am hoping some people who know the electrical code and experience with dealing with city inspectors can reply and help me figure out where to pick my battles. Thanks
  14. I had an electrician come out to check for any problems and/or code violations. One of the things he said was my spa connection was not ok. He said the connection between panel and spa cannot be NM flex conduit, it must be in rigid and buried. I have always seen spas connected with flexible nm conduit, so this is new to me. Has there been a change in the code? I can't imagine burying conduit to come up inside the spa panel - digging out that close to the spa seems tough in the least, and dangerous. Can someone tell me what is the correct way the spa should be corrected? (If I picture would help, lmk and I'll take one and post it.)
  15. I had a city inspector tell me I had to have at least a 50cfm fan installed in a bathroom even though there is a window due to new California code requirements. To make this more complicated I can not find if it can be wired with a light or needs to be on another switch. The inspector said no, then yes, then no. I can't find it in the code specifically how it needs to function. I had an electrician out and he made it even more complicated stating that: 1) a bathroom fan must run at 50% volume all the time, and have a detector that upon occupancy increase to 100% or a minimum of 10 minutes, then automatically reduce back down to 50%. 2) A bathroom fan can be substituted by a vent running to the attic fan. (I was unclear how this would work for multiple reasons, the least of which is the attic vents are less than 3? from the eaves of the house. 3) Since I have a window, I don?t need a bathroom fan ? even though the inspector specifically said I do, because it is not in my house and the bathroom is too small for this requirement. I don't like disagreeing with the city inspector but will if I can back it up. I can't find ANY of this in the code. Is this a plumbing code? mechanical? building? The inspector doesn't really want to answer my questions and says to hire an electrician.
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