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  1. It is the same one. How you imported that into this thread is amazing.
  2. We have a 120 year old building with a crack in the wall. We hired an inspector to look at it because we do not trust just hiring contractors. He recommended that we just reach down to it from the roof with a caulk gun and fill the with caulk. That is, put caulk in the gap formed in the mortar and in the gaps spanning the bricks. Moreover, the crack runs right next to where some other idiot decided to slap caulk on the outside of our building. This all seemed unbelievably foolish to me. Is there any merit to this claim?
  3. Looking for someone to inspect a 1925 house. Thanks!
  4. Thanks much everyone! a portion of it is a parapet, but the crack extends down into the building itself. The crack does not run all the way down the caulk line. I think that the only existing picture of the work is the picture from the bottom up.
  5. Thanks John. That was my thinking. The stucco on the right is the old surface that was removed from the brick. Engineers did inspect the wall prior to the crack. That was about a year ago. I'm sure that not much has changed then other than the crack. They should have addressed the loose mortar. The walls are protected from draining water, but the stucco absorbs some. Here is a picture taken from today. There was some light rain. You can also see the appropriate repair with soft mortar on the corner bricks, which was done by the same company. The building was in pretty bad shape, but they did a $200,000+ job for a fairly small square footage of work (6 story building, 12 1/2 Ft wide). Would think that they would have removed more of the stucco to see what is underneath and wouldn't have used caulk.
  6. Thanks Bill! But how do you explain how: 1. The crack perfectly follows the line of the caulk from the top to the bottom, and how the crack involves both brick and mortar? 2. The crack was not present 1 year ago prior to the application of the caulk, and appeared after the application of the caulk? Also, is this serious? It does not completely cross all layers of brick. It is not obvious to me how one would repair this.
  7. Here is a video on how this happens
  8. And here is a view from the top of the roof...
  9. Here is a detail of the area you see in the last picture...
  10. Thanks John! Nope, I'm suggesting that the brick and mortar absorbed water which froze behind the caulk and caused expansion, thus causing the brick to crack. The crack is perfectly along the caulk line. Here is a photo of the building and a detail of the area.
  11. Hi all--I have been trying to get a better picture. This isn't a chimney. It is actually a wall. The sealant joint was done by a contractor after they removed the cement from the outer portion of the brick. It sure looks like that is what caused the crack, because the crack follows the sealant all the way down the wall. It is very difficult to get a good picture because I can't get into the neighboring building without trespassing onto their roof.
  12. Hi all, Our building recently had an exterior wall partially rebuilt. This is a 6 story building constructed around 1900 brick and mortar. A contractor was hired before I moved in. As I understand it, the project was to remove material from the outside of the build and repoint. As I understand it, it went from a $100,00 repoint to a $260,000 project. In the course of this project, they ignored the side of the building. Instead, it appears that they removed some cement covering the brick and then put caulk between the cement and the brick. The wall subsequently developed large cracks A winter has passed between the completion of the work and the time of these pictures. Do you think the caulk could have caused this cracking? Is this serious? What actions would you take? thank you!!
  13. Hi everyone. I have a flat roof with bitumen that is about 4 years old. There are blisters and uneven surfaces. While it is not obviously leaking, the interior attic is warm and sprayed with closed cell foam, making leaks difficult to detect. There are multiple points where water can come in. I have a quote for a roofer who wants to cut and nail the blisters, nail down insulation to make it even, and then cover with a new layer of bitumen and aluminum paint. I would like a surface that has the highest possible life expectancy (though I don't mind repainting every few years). Is there a better option? What approach would you take? Thanks so much in advance!!
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