inspectorwill

PMI - Per Manufacturer Installation Cat II appliances are rarely used residential installations and I don't think I have ever seen one either. I am going with upper and lower combustion air sources since it draws from the closet interior. Thanks guys.

High efficiency condensing furnace installed in interior closet. The combustion air is drawn from the closet which only has an upper combustion air opening to the ventilated attic space. Should this furnace be treated as a typical forced air unit with upper and lower combustion air openings if not drawn directly from the exterior? Or, is the installation PMI?

Thanks for all the input. Just re-affirmed the way I felt about it. This is one of those 2 million dollar properties that has undergone "extensive renovation" including the deck. They made it pretty up top with new composite surfacing and rails but left the original substandard structure supports. Oh and they included a nice bench against the guardrail at the highest point just so the kids can have a nice platform to plunge from. Pic attached. To answer Marc's question, the far corner is cantilevered off the house. Click to Enlarge 54.15 KB

I did not feel any swaying but then again I am not a very big fellow (155 lbs) and this deck could certainly fit a lot of folks.

I don't like them because there always seems to be a headline story of collapses and because many that I come across are a unique design and just don't look right. Attached are pics of this deck about 20' off the ground on a hillside in earthquake country (California). Deck has been there a while but just looks like a moderate quake or maybe an overzealous woodpecker could bring it down. Have a looksie and I appreciate any comments. Click to Enlarge 65.48 KB Click to Enlarge 27.41 KB

Thanks all. It is the clear collection box full of water and the fact the furnace has not been run in at least a couple months that peaked my curiosity. Unless, the thermostat was left on automatic and it has been coming on during the cold morning hours. I switched it on without checking the setting.

Thanks Brandon, I thought the same with water heater vent but there was no spillage.

Thanks for the replies. I should have been a bit more detailed with the installation. Furnace is located in the garage next to a water heater and draws combustion air from the garage. I have never seen a clear collection box so I was a thrown off by the amount of condensation inside. An important note is that this home has been vacant for a few months and I presume the furnace has not been run in that time. My photos were taken prior to my operating the furnace. I've attached another pic of the installation area. Click to Enlarge 27.86 KB

What causes this much condensation to accumulate in this high efficiency furnace (see pic)? The condensate pump seems to be functioning correctly. Click to Enlarge 63.9 KB

Yeah and there was no reason for all four pads to be so poorly placed when there was about 30" -36" in the crawlspace.

This is a 3200 sq. ft. California home that the seller claims has undergone extensive renovation to meet all Title 24 provisions and has been "seismically retrofitted". Originally constructed in 1950's and is bolted to the foundation but has typical toenailing at all post / beam joints. Seller provided receipts from contractor for seismic upgrades. Retrofit apparently did not include any brackets or gussets. Four new concrete pads and posts installed but it hardly seems adequate to meet any seismic retrofit upgrades and on engineering plans are available. The four new posts are bracketed to 4x4s that are placed between floor joists and toenailed at each end. Pics provided for detail. So my questions are - Does it make sense to anyone that an apparently engineered seismic retrofit would not include brackets or gussets at post / beam joints? - Wouldn't the newer post beam connections only be as strong as the weakest point of the 4x4 toenailed to the floor joists? Click to Enlarge 41.08 KB Click to Enlarge 51 KB Click to Enlarge 53.22 KB

One is a geologist/geotechnical specialist/hydrologist who specializes in geology and structural reinforcement of aged structures as well as designs plans for grading a drainage according to specific geological needs. The other is a foundation contractor with 30+ years of experience in seismic retrofits, new construction and repair. Frankly, I've got a home owner with too much time on their hands and I am certain any compensation for repairs will go straight to new drapes and furnishings rather than an unnecessary repair.

So I refuse to be one of those inspectors who passes off every little thing for further evaluation because they are afraid to offer a professional opinion. However, it has become increasingly frustrating with contractors apparently searching for work. Here is a common example that I would appreciate some input on. I frequently inspect homes of 50-80 years old on raised foundations that have signs of past structural movement such as an unsquare door frame or two, floors that are slightly out of level and a stem wall crack or two that display no significant separation or differential. Barring any substantial grading and drainage issues that could increase the potential for further movement, I generally do not recommend further evaluation by a structural engineer, drainage specialist or other specialist. I am in the midst of dueling specialists because I reported a typical foundation stem wall crack in a 70 year old home but did not recommend repair or further evaluation by a structural engineer. Two years later, a contractor came along to do unrelated work to the home and suggested the crack be immediately repaired because it is a structural concern for a substantial amount of money. You can guess who the home owner turned to for the repair costs. I hired two highly regarded specialists to come out and say this was without a doubt a non-structural issue. The home owner hired a specialist as well to state the opposite and of course will do the repair work. It really is a bunch of nonsense but has cost a whole lot of time and money to deal with. Sorry for the long winded story but I guess what I am looking for is good report language to report my findings in this particular circumstance that will be informational to the home owner but at the same time not be unnecessarily alarming or suggest that I am making claims only a structural engineer or other specialist can make. Otherwise, I will be simply passing the buck on the majority of my inspections for something that is found in just about every home of this age and type. I do not feel this is a good way to do business. It is spineless and causes the owner to incur the additional cost of a specialist or worry over something that is a non-issue aside from the aesthetics.

Thanks for the all the input. I recommended they raise it. I read the clearance as above the cooking surface plane as well which makes sense. It is substandard work and yes they put a viking in a flip when it's flipped for 2 million. They buy quality appliances and other components but install it all in the same crappy way.

So I keep reading the label on this Viking stove and still not getting it. Home was a quick flip and just a ton of installation defects of all sorts. This question pertains to the height of the countertop in relation to the range burner. Under the stone countertop is 3/4" plywood right next to the burners. Opinions please. Photos attached. Click to Enlarge 55.61 KB Click to Enlarge 48.3 KB

Thanks gentlemen. I am not as concerned about water getting in the flue being in Santa Barbara where we get little rain as much as the overall installation looking amateur and the fresh air opening looking a bit small. I'm overly cautious with installation of gas operated appliances.

This masonry fireplace has been retrofitted with a metal gas only fireplace insert with a metal vent pipe presumably because the visible chimney cracks extended into the clay flue liner. Question is - shouldn't this fireplace get combustion air from the outside or is it dependent on the manufacturer requirements? From the roof, I could see down into the flue because the installer left a gap in the flue cap and saw a second flexible metal vent pipe that terminated inside the flue. I speculate they left the gap to allow combustion air into the original flue where the second metal vent pipe is located. See pics for detail. Last pic is through the gap in the cap looking down into flue. Click to Enlarge 52.12 KB Click to Enlarge 63.54 KB Click to Enlarge 49.97 KB

Your spouse is Lucky Marc. Oxnard is a great place, at least along the beaches. This inspection was in Santa Barbara and I found out today from some late disclosures that the valve was installed during this first floor condo remodel. The reason for the remodel is the sink backed up and flooded the unit when the owners were away. Not commonly seen around these parts and seems a bit unusual that a valve would have to be installed to prevent the condo from flooding every time they left the home.

A shut off valve is installed at the kitchen sink drain. Why? I cannot come up with a rational explanation. Click to Enlarge 48.46 KB

Kurt, I don't see much difference with the Chicago Loop versus a typical island vent which would have to be in the wall cavity since it was not visible under the cabinet. There were also no clean outs on the walls beneath the cabinets which I would expect to see with this venting. Would the lack of a vent cause the sewer gas smell since the gases are not displaced through a vent? I know that it is not a sure indicator but the combination of smell and visible configuration seemed to make sense for my initial suspicion.

Thought I had photographed it but unfortunately not.

Yes

So there are two sinks that sit right in the middle of a large 2nd floor master bathroom suite. I run the sinks and get a strong sewer gas smell before looking around and realizing there does not seem to be a feasible way for the sinks to be vented as far as I know (key point). The sinks are situated on and island cabinet with what I call a partition wall behind them that does not extend to the ceiling. The shower, tub and toilet are at least 8' away and there is no other wall within 6'. Additionally, I did not see any island type venting nor air admittance valves in the cabinets under the sinks. The partition wall is about 6" thick and I cant imagine an island vent was installed within the cavity. The home has been remodeled a few times over the past 20 years and I suspect they cut off the top of the wall behind the sinks that originally extended to the ceiling to open up the master bathroom. The house is 3 stories and I could not get to the roof to look for an abandoned vent and there is no attic space because the ceiling is vaulted. A roofing contractor checked the roof the day prior to my inspection so I couldn't coordinate with him. I am calling it out as a venting issue unless someone has any other ideas on how the venting could be accomplished. However, it still smelled horrible so I am going to call that out. I included a couple pics from different angles to show the bathroom configuration. Thanks as always. Click to Enlarge 42.31 KB Click to Enlarge 45.93 KB

Thanks Jim always very informative:) I could understand seeing condensation in a high humidity area like Texas but with relative humidity between 40%-60% here in Santa Barbara and a low attic temperature, I would not expect to see condensation develop as I never have before. Just wanted to be sure it wasn't indicative of some other defect like a clogged line or something like that.

Came across an a-coil condensate line that was developing condensation. The condensation was on about 24" of the PVC closest to the a-coil located in the attic space. Initially, I thought it was a small leak at the bottom of the line and the water was clinging to the pipe from adhesion and following the slope. But I could not pinpoint a leak. I've never come across this before and wonder what, if any, malfunction it could represent since the A/C seemed to be functioning correctly. I recorded an 18 degree drop with an IR camera at the register closest to the coil. It was not exceptionally hot in the attic space about 90-100 degrees and it was well ventilated. Outside temperature was about 75 degrees.