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  1. matto


    I rated the service at 100Amps due to the SEC size. The clarification I am looking for is, Do we add these tied breakers for total amperage capacity, if the cables were sized properly?
  2. I havent run into this in a while and cannot remenber if I add these amperages together or is it 75amp panel. Click to Enlarge 65.79 KB Click to Enlarge 65.94 KB
  3. I have a couple questions I hope you guys can help me out with. Now I know common sense should prevail in most of these circumstances but I could use some help in sourcing some sort of code to back up any of these issues if needed. The building is a small commercial building with two apartment above, the neighbor's building also has two apartments. There is a common access for the apartments through a stairway and hallway. That being said here goes: One of the units has their electrical panel in the common area of the hallway, this has a lock on it. So being able to shut power down would require finding the key? The general hall lighting is controlled by a switch on the inside of two of the units, very dark when off. No safety lighting and no exit lighting. My final question is that the uppper windows one slider about 48x48 and one single hung 36x36, do these need stops on the jambs to prevent accidential falls. Thanks in advance. Try not to beat me up too bad, I am trying to catch up on paper work, and I hate paperwork[:-monkeyd
  4. At what point do you call BS?? Performing a CO test at the exhaust port on a power vented furnace and had a reading of 186PPM "new furnace". HVAC tech called me and asked where I took the reading. (I took readinag at the exhaust) I explained that I do not drill/test into pvc vent pipes. He told me that he took a reading in the flue gas and his reading were 26PPM. I allowed 10 min of operation (steady state). My question is 2/9 fold: 1 If the tech did not allow for steady state would the CO level rise? 2 If I take the reading at the exhaust and that reading is significantly higher should there be a concern that the exhaust fan or pressure switch is holding back gasses. 3 If the tech adjusted the gas pressure flow before testing for CO would that decrease co level 4 The tech called me and asked where I tested ......why would he care....he is the expert right... Click to Enlarge 32.54 KB
  5. Thank you for your help it is appreciated as always. Matt
  6. Inspected a home with the siding removed, the foam board has these holes in it. It is cooler here in Wisconsin and did not see any insect activity. What type of insects "eat" foam board? I am not even sure if this is from insects any help or direction would be appreciated. Bugs are not my strong suit. Thanks, Matt Click to Enlarge 31.96 KB Click to Enlarge 43.23 KB
  7. I came across these sewer standoffs at an inspection of a 75+ year old home. I was able to pop a lid and look down, I saw water and the depth looks at least 8 feet. I thought that these mayu have carried gutter runoff at one time but i am not sure. There is no discharge at the road but I guess it could discharge to the sewer lateral, which would be bad. There is also a large cistern well the exterior of the property and at first I thought that they may have feed that but I think they run too deep. Any thoughts???? Thanks, Matt I added a pic of the well Click to Enlarge 71.61 KB Click to Enlarge 36.59 KB Click to Enlarge 48.14 KB Click to Enlarge 57.16 KB
  8. Iam going to take the BPI exam on tuesday any hints[:-angel]
  9. When moisture is absorbed into the brick veneer and the sun or heat of the day heats the veneer the vapor pressure increases. Therefore heat goes to cold and wet goes to dry and a vapor retarder only slows the progression it just makes sense to install a material that will allow the wall / brick area to wick the moisture away. Thanks, Matt
  10. I do have a pic of the piping and I do understand that there needs to be a fill and vent but I do not know why just on gal pipe to the exterior. It is below grade. Could this be an old water feed to an out building? Confused. Click to Enlarge 35.61 KB
  11. Recent inspect of a home with 200A main service. 100A sub. The grounds and neutrals were seperated at the main panel with the grounds isolated from the panel. There was an additional ground wire to the well pump piping. There was plastic on both sides of the well piping and the house piping. There was an additional neutral that was rodded to the ground. The sub had the neutrals seperated and the grounds bonded. I do not think that the main panel should have the ground isolated let alone not grounded to the galvanized that is attached to the plastic. What sense does it make to ground the additional neutral. Thanks, Matt
  12. Keep in mind that there should be two layers of vapor type retarder behind the brick veneer. I feel that the best practice for allowing vapor diffusion through the brick is installing a impermeable type of membrane such as dri-core (a continuous plastic membrane with dimples on the back side to promote drainage) Matt
  13. Recent inspect- Having an issue/ brain freeze. The home was built in the 1800's there has been several remodels since then. I am loking at a 1.5" galvanized pipe approx 2.5' from the foundation floor. Is this consitant with an undeground storage tank. There is also a 4" cast pipe close to that location that has been filled with concrete. I am suspicious because there is a newer concrete slab over that area. The well appears to be older and in a different location but newly moved. Need help in determining. Thanks, Matt
  14. At first look I thought I was in Snoopys' attic or possibly being shipped overseas.
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