tim5055

We had battery operated gas logs in the last house. A remote turned on the gas. D cells at the fireplace and AA in the remote. I don;t think we ever changed them [^]

Nope, I come here for the wealth of knowledge folks provide. As it appears my window have more issues than I thought, are there solutions that don't require tearing the house down?

I'm getting a warm feeling all over.....

OK Marc, here are a few before shots, but please note the great job the contractor did with the original vapor barrier.

As I insinuated in my thread "Can I do this?", I have hired a company to retire the septic system and connect to the city sewer system. The down side for me is that the I live outside the city and they charge higher rates for us "county folks" to keep the rates lower for those in the city[:-yuck] With the help of the fine folks here at TIJ I have the electric in place for the pump and alarm, no all they are waiting on is the permit to encroach on the road. Once they have that it's a two day job according to them. We have a 35' travel trailer that usually lives in our barn in North Carolina, but for now will be in the back yard here. For two days it will give us a working kitchen and bathroom[]

Well, a company has been selected and as soon as the septic folks finish their job connectiong us to the sewer system the crawl will be dry, with pretty white plastic everywhere. I will follow up with pictures when they are done. Thanks for everyone's help and support!

Well, I continue on my quest to get this house in order. I climbed up on a ladder yesterday to clear some leaves from a gutter and was surprised at what I saw over a window. Following Mr. Kibbel's instructions (Step 1: Learn the proper name of building materials) I decided that there was a very large gap above the lintel. You can't see it in the photo, but if you look closely through the gap I see the blue foam board I assume the house was covered with before the brick went up. So, three questions: 1. Shouldn't this gap be filled with something? (I think yes) 2. What should it be filled with? (My first reaction is caulk) 3. Should there be weep holes around these windows somewhere? This one is typical for all the windows in the house.

OK, when I copied it I shortened it - Oops It actually has 208 and 230 in the same box

I plan on the 20a breaker. As to the plans, my first thought was a straight pipe all the way down to the lake, but I assumed they would figure it out quickly[:-bigeyes No, I want it done right. I sleep better not worrying about things.

Nope, never thought to rely on the plumber for electrical advice. OK, here is what they are installing: WE1512HH - Goulds Pumps 3885 Submersible Effluent Pump The manufacturer spec sheet shows the following: 1.5HP 1 Phase 208V 3450 RPM Max Amps 15.7 Locked Rotor Amps 50 (what the heck is this?) KVA Code "H" Start Resistance 11.3 Line-Line Resistance 1.6 Power Cable Size 14/3

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm just going with the recommendation of the installer on the pump. The house is quite a distance from the sewer main and (forgive me, sewer is not my high point) the system is a "forced main". So, could it be the distance or pressure?

Well, I'm moving forward on replacing the septic with a connection to the sewer system. This will require the installation of a macerator/injection pump. This pump requires a 220v/20a circuit. Near the location where the plumber wants the electric installed is my sub-panel for our pool equipment. The sub is being supplied by a 60a breaker, but I can't tell what gauge the wire is. Here is the panel with the breaker for the sub marked: In the sub there is a 20a GFCI for the underwater light (20a overkill for a light?) and the 220/20a for the pump Here is the sub: So, can I pull from here or is the wire insufficient for the load?

Shears is the answer as Jim said. Hardie cutting guidelines: OUTDOORS 1. Position cutting station so that wind will blow dust away from user and others in working area. 2. Use one of the following methods: a. Best: i. Score and snap ii. Shears (manual, electric or pneumatic) b. Better: i. Dust reducing circular saw equipped with a HardieBlade saw blade and HEPA vacuum extraction c. Good: i. Dust reducing circular saw with a HardieBlade saw blade (only use for low to moderate cutting) INDOORS 1. Cut only using score and snap, or shears (manual, electric or pneumatic). 2. Position cutting station in well-ventilated area - NEVER use a power saw indoors -NEVER use a circular saw blade that does not carry the HardieBlade saw blade trademark - NEVER dry sweep - Use wet suppression or HEPA Vacuum Important Note: For maximum protection (lowest respirable dust production), James Hardie recommends always using "Best" level cutting methods where feasible. NIOSH-approved respirators can be used in conjunction with above cutting practices to further reduce dust exposures. Additional exposure information is available at www.jameshardie.com to help you determine the most appropriate cutting method for your job requirements. If concern still exists about exposure levels or you do not comply with the above practices, you should always consult a qualified industrial hygienist or contact James Hardie for further information.

Thanks Mike, that is what all the companies say I will end up with!

That is the way I'm leaning. I just want to see his written quote. As far as the extra $200, I tend to "tip" the workers on site for a good clean job.

Well, continuing.... A little more background on the salesmen. #1 used two sales techniques I hate: spent too much time on what other folks do wrong (with pictures & names) used the "if you sign today I can give youX off" routine #2 was nothing more than a mold scare monger. As far as numbers, #1 emailed me a written quote while he was at my house. #2 & 3 said they would e-mail, but nothing to date.

It's yours, PM me an address. I figure the couple of bucks postage as payment for the knowledge I've received here. So far the estimates are $13,000 and $11,000 (rounded and including similar "options") Thanks!All roof run off is already captured and piped off the lot. One of the few things the original owner did correctly was grade the lot so water moves away from the house and into lower areas away from it. The main problem is that one of those lower areas is the septic drain field, so it always stays wet.[:-weepn] The piers are all concrete block, no wood.

Well, it was a long day. Three "salesmen" spaced throughout the day. Just as an aside, I found it funny that two of them provided copies of the book "Crawl Space Science: What to Have Done... and Why" . Funny, because the book was written for one of the companies and the competition was using it - even with the competitions name in it?? I'm confused about that. Book on Amazon. Anyone need a copy? So, back to the day. All basically came up with the following: There is some "growth" on the joists Just shy of 3,000 sq feet I should have it done All three showed similar photos to what Kiel previously posted as a finished product. All three would install 20 mil barrier on the floor and all walls leaving a 6" gap below the sill plate to allow for termite inspection. All piers would be covered two to four feet above grade. All vents would be covered with foam blocks which would be foamed into place. The "system" would then cover them. Salesmen #1. After two hours he recommends encapsulation, adding a dehumidifier, sealing all vents and adding a sump pump. I'm simplifying a little but $13,000 is the final number. (He uses his competitors book to sell his product). He comments on the "mold", but doesn't think it's a big deal or needs remediation. He states we will then need a yearly visit to clean the dehumidifiers filters and check the sump pump. Salesmen #2 After two hours (and i have to explain that his time is up) he recommends spraying to kill the rampant mold I have, encapsulation, adding a dehumidifier, sealing all vents, installing a perimeter drain system, installing an air exchange system from the living space and adding a sump pump. Once that is done he wants to spray the area with a special "patented" spray that will kill any new mold for 6 months. He never did come up with a price, he will have to e-mail it to me. Salesman #3 He is in and out in under an hour. He recommends encapsulation, adding a dehumidifier, sealing all vents and adding a sump pump. I'm simplifying a little but $10,000 is the final number. He comments on the "mold", but also doesn't think it's a big deal or needs remediation. As a matter of fact, he rubs it on one of the joists and stated that this stuff is everywhere and you are breathing it everywhere. It's his companies book #1 uses. Both #1 & #3 said that the space under the front/rear porches (brick with stamped concrete would be blocked off with doors and that space would not be encapsulated. Both stated that water is always going to work its way through the concrete floors above so including them in the conditioned space will negate the object of what we are doing. #2 said he would encapsulate the area under the porches, but had no answer as to the water coming through the concrete.

Again, thanks for all the information. I think I will go into the presentations a lot more informed. It's funny, the first company I called had photo's almost exactly like the ones Kiel posted on their web site. After I made an appointment I got a call from them asking questions about the job. it seems their primary focus is actual foundation repair and the do encapsulation in conjunction with those jobs. Luckily, no repairs needed here. He did point me in the direction of a couple of companies who specialize in encapsulation. As a final note, he said they used $3 per square foot as their guide for pricing the encapsulation. I made appointments with three other companies and had them spaced out over a few days. Seems two of the three need to change days and all three ended up tomorrow. 9, 2 and 4.... It's going to be a long day.

Marc, Kurt, Jim & Kiel - Thanks for taking the time to educate me!! It's starting to come together in my mind now. Now, that confuses me - remove the existing insulation? Even sealing the vents it's going to get cold down there, no? Plus, with all the pool equipment down there I will be going in and out on a regular basis, as well as my thoughts of using the area with high clearance for a little storage. How might that figure in?

Well, I'm a little red faced.... I re-read the inspection report and it was commented on, but in the "STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS" section. Two pictures in the report, but probably hard to see here: The comments in the reprot were: CRAWLSPACE - FLOOR JOISTS: Found a mildew-like substance and blotches/patches of discoloration on the exposed surface of floor joists. Moisture content levels were in the 12%-!6% range at the time of inspection. Note: Moisture levels found were on the higher end of the acceptable range. Moisture content levels fluctuate with seasonal weather conditions. Note: Mildew most prevalent at the left rear section (lower clearance side) of the crawlspace. Note: Mildew inhibitors, sprays and surface treatment, ground cover and increased ventilation can effectively control mildew build-up on framing members in damp spaces.

Thanks Kurt. I guess my next question would be how much work needs to be done? Most of the websites for crawl/foundation companies are talking about multi layer vapor barriers that go up all walls and wrap all piers. Is what you are saying the same as what they are talking about or two different levels of work? I guess I'm asking are they going to try to sell me a Cadillac when all I need is a Chevy.....

One home inspector, no comments in the report about the substance. So far the "online forum" has provided more information than the two inspectors Ive hired for my last two houses. Hmmm, maybe this is an opportunity for you all. Video conference home inspections......

Well, it's time to move forward from my septic issues and start working on other projects. For those who may not have seen any of my other posts, we purchased a 9 year old home in a lake front community just outside Columbia, SC. (I'm a south Florida guy, so to me a house is made of concrete blocks built on a concrete slab). The house is on a crawl space, the entrance to the crawl is a double door opening into an area that has about 10' clearance and the crawl gets smaller as you move up the house. The smallest it gets is around four feet. In the crawl area is the main floor air handler, and two water heaters. All utilities (HVAC ducting, water pipes and electric) are suspended from the joists in the crawl. Additionally the pool equipment (pump/filter) is just inside the door within the crawl. It appears the contractor did a fairly good job with the insulation in the joist bays and all is in order as far as that goes. The floor of the crawl is dirt and the contractor really failed in this area. It looks like someone just threw down some plastic and no where does it appear that there was any attempt to seal the plastic sheets together nor to the walls. There is a musty smell in the crawl, but not too bad. The foundation walls appear in order and only one spot shows any water intrusion into the crawl. This one spot was where a hole was cut in the foundation wall below grade as an exit point for electric/water going to a detached garage. The space around the wires/pipe in this hole was just filled with what appears to be "great stuff foam". In a heavy rain some water does enter thru this spot, but not "running" water". In one corner at the "low point" there is box and sump pump, but it does not appear to me to be a true sump. I don't see any evidence of any perimeter drains draining into this box. Pulling back the insulation between the joists reveals a white powdery substance on most joists, mold of some sort?? I have been reading this forum for a couple of years. Mold is everywhere, so I'm not panicking... I have called four companies to visit and express an opinion, but I know I will be talking to salesmen and they will want to sell me something. I guess my first question would be, do I really need to do anything? If I do need to do something, what do I need to do? Tim

To answer questions, maybe not in the order asked... I'm not sure what the inspector who passed the system did, I was not present. The inspector who "failed" it opened the tank to find it completely full. He then dug up one of the drain field lines to find standing water above the lines. I'm not aware if either of them had a checklist or did any scetches, but I'm thinking not. The soil is mostly clay and holds water for days after a rain. Again, I'm surprised that it ever passed a perc test of any kind. I'm sure the inspections I got were minimal at best, but my gut tells me it's bad. I do appreciate all the comments and assistance!