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tim5055

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About tim5055

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  1. Great pool information can be found in Mike Holt's PDF of teh 2014 NEC ARTICLE 680—SWIMMING POOLS, SPAS, HOT TUBS, FOUNTAINS, AND SIMILAR INSTALLATIONS
  2. Well, I know this was started by a spammer, but to add on to the idea.... I recently needed to add an opener to a door with little overhead clearance, so I went with a wall mount shaft opener. Liftmaster 8500 Wall Mount Garage Door Opener Package What I didn't know I was getting was an automatic "lock" that throws a pin thru the track when the door closes. Neat idea and keeps folks from forcing the door up.
  3. Yea, the crack in the fill dirt inside the crawl is what makes me think it's impact damage.
  4. Well, to be honest - we are not sure what caused it. Chad's & Jim's explanations are the two that are proposed the most. The crack does go all the way to the footer, so my money is on impact, likely a bobcat as they were cleaning up, before the deck and as Jim puts it the "massive concrete patio slab" were installed. The architect/PE looked at it and never batted an eye. He went into explanations of the properties of concrete and as John implied, movement happens. His only suggestion corresponds to Jim's, patch it and monitor it for any future movement. The guess is that it happened early
  5. Just to close out this thread, the new HVAC is installed. All of the "old" is gone and a new system installed. All CSST removed and replaced with black iron. It seems there is only one guy in about three counties that still installs the stuff. Everyone else has switched to CSST.
  6. Ok, more answers to questions asked- Chad is correct, no apparent vertical movement. House is 11 - 12 years old Photos 5 & 6 show the crack form both sides of the wall. On the outside (green side) its in the corner under the deck The sub-encapsualtion venting is not for radon, but for the "cat urine" odor that seems to accompany about 10% of crawl space encapsulation jobs No expansive soils, the house is built on a hill that is primarily huge boulders.
  7. It's not real brick outside, its patterned stucco over concrete block.
  8. Yea, I can pick them.... Usually, it's the wife that "falls in love" with them. I post the architect/PE comments later after i see the comments here [:-taped]
  9. Well, everyone seemed to like my previous thread regarding the encapsulation of my crawl space in our current home in South Carolina. So, here I start my odyssey of encapsulating the crawl space in our (hopefully) final/retirement home in the mountains of North Carolina. Old thread, in case you want to check it out https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum ... C_ID=18281 In this home it is a more "standard" crawl space, meaning everywhere is actually crawling, rather than walking in our previous endeavor. There are no obvious water issues, but some joists do have a little white fuzz. A
  10. OK, back to the original topic....... I like to keep folks updated - I'm going with a SEER 18 A/C, heat pump for heat and LP Gas as "emergency" heat. To be honest at 2,300 feet in altitude the summer "heat" is a short duration period. While we have owned this house and our previous property down the street we have kept the windows open probably 6+ months a year. I don't think any higher a SEER rating is going to gain me any "savings". At this point all of the CSST has been removed and the black iron is installed except for a couple of 6" pieces. The HVAC guy is on notice/scheduled
  11. Will an on-demand unit work without power? Probably not, but will any of the newer tanks? I thought they had all transitioned from a pilot light to a piezo igniter??
  12. the master bath is on the other side of the wall from the existing WH, kitchen maybe 20 feet from the WH and a guest bath on the other side of the house. No return loops, but I could probably add them.
  13. I already have this that will move with me: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... swod-MEGbA The house has a manual transfer switch already, all I need to add is the receptacle to plug it in on the outside wall.
  14. Thanks. Both are on the table. While the guy is doing the black pipe work I am already having him stub the pipe in the island for the cooktop. The new cooktop will wait until the Corian is removed and we go to granite. The water heater is also on the table and a stub out will be placed for that. I'm just wondering conventional tank or on demand heater.
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