jimtmcdaniels

Thank-you Jim Katten and others for your valuable time and info: Jim I've said it wrong, she was not an agent, she was a Farmer's Insurance adjuster and she did spend it seemed like a quarter of the day here taking pictures and walking the roofs and inspecting and then in her vehicle writing up the claim. She seemed very generous. The roofs are I'd say around 20 years old put in by the previous owner. Both were cheap jobs and the house is missing shingles, some are only stapled and the garage rolled roof is disintegrating. I had called Farmers Insurance to send out an adjuster, saying that there was hail damage hoping I would get some kind of coverage for the garage. I thought I would just continue replacing missing shingles on the house. (I've replaced some of the shingles before, some of them just fall off when walking on them..) She-adjuster insisted on looking at the house too. I was very happy the insurance is covering new roofs for both... I was raised Catholic but am a caring athiest so no worry about going with a fellow church member for the job. LOL I'm suprised you don't believe in the BBB. Ok I'll take your word on it. I've joined Angieslist.com, great tip, and found the roofer my neighbor recommended and many others, all with A ratings. I'll have to get some estimates now. Here's my list of what I'll make sure the reroofing quotes include: 1. Use of nails only, no staples. 2. I think I'll try to use the Federal Tax credit rebate qualified reflective shingles. I'll have to look into that more. 3. Install and leave super anchors of some style at roof ridges (say at least 3) - house only. 4. Total Tear off. 5. New flashing all round. 6. Ice and Water shields at valleys & eave overhangs at least. 7. Drip-edge flashing at the drip edges and Rake rake edge flashing at the rake edges-like the dormers. 8. Garage parapet walls capped by metal coping with either standing seams or flatlock seams. 9. I'll expect they'll include a provision for T & M and carpentry which alows for them increasing the cost for unseen items. (Don't know exactly what the T & M stands for.. tear and replace unexpected damage is my gist). 10. Comply with the manufacturers installation instructions, and also with either NRCA's or ARMA's instructions. 11. Roofing materials be from a single manufacturer and/or include approved products that do not adversely affect the roofing materials warranty. This is one big speed bump for me I have to bark about: You sure I shouldn't rely much on Consumer Reports (I've attached their rating info below)? I was mesmurized at how some of the cheaper shingles outperformed ones four times the price. I'm generally surprised how fragile shingles are and how they don't last longer than they do for all the work involved in reroofing. I guess they want us to keep paying for roofs milking us like cows. It really seems rediculous to me. ~ Will a roofer really know which shingles will last for many decades? I mean my imagination says that for the most part, without testing shingles like in a lab, the only other good test is time...and by then the shingle company no longer offers the same shingles. The manufacturers are just throwing together concoctions of material and coatings and layers, and maybe moreso much marketing and incentives. I really don't know what I'm getting for by paying extra dollars per bundle from one company to another. I don't know where the sweet spot is and wonder if my roofer will being under the same influences. ~ Consumer Reports shows a good sweet spot with the Certainteed Landmark or Owens-Corning Oakridge. I make less than 40K a year and I'd like to retire instead of working all my life. I'm not one to skimp where it makes a difference but I don't want to throw money away where the difference is not worth it. From consumer reports it looks like Owens-Berkshire Collection $220 and Certainteed's-Grand Manor $215 - top shingles are very over priced for a bit more performance although their warranty goes to life instead of 30 years (not sure if many people will really benefit from the difference in warranty length). Looking at their ratings (it shows there is not a very good correlation between price and quality), do you think there is any value to the ratings? Ok I did go to Owens website and I see their Berkshire Collection looks like slate which is a reason why they are more expensive. Did too much barking... The current house roof is black and it's hot upstairs in the summer. I think I'll be going with a lighter-medium natural color this time maybe that looks like wood but I don't think I'll go with actual wood shingles, cost and I'd also be worried about the fire danger and I think insurance companies are discouraging wood shingles these days. I've researched the radiant heat barrier. For the house I will need to install it in the attic. It won't work between the roof decking and the shingles because 3/4 inch min air space is needed on one side of the aluminum barrier. The 2 house chimneys need repointing badly. They didn't rediscover the egyptian "portland cement" till I think the 1920's, so the mortar is like a limestone that is very soft. I'll have to see if the roofer knows of someone to repoint first or maybe I'll check angieslist.com for a masonist. Garage I think I do need to have the roofers put insulation boards down on the garage flat roof because in my area the government recommends R50 in the attic and if I insulate the 8 inch roof joists too, I'll still be short the R50. And I'm always so amazed at how just a thin styrofoam cup keeps coffee's heat contained. I see for instance Home Depot has 2 inch R13 aluminum sided insulation boards. I wonder if another more ridged board may be needed on top of that to make sure walking on the roof does not dent the underlying R13 insulation boards.. I do plan on finishing and heating the garage in the future and it's hot in the summer too so this is the opportunity to insulate, I'll take it. I did watch your waterproof decks presentation, very good, a bit over my head but I get the picture that a full time walkable roof is expensive, and complicated for waterproofing. The garage has 2 x 8 inch roof beams 12' long on 16" center. I thought they'd be strong enough for a deck. I guess it'll probably be either the mod bit or built-up roof on the garage. I don't know the cost difference and other pros and cons. I do and don't like the idea of loose gravel ballast on top. I imagine it keeps the sun off therefore many times extending the roof's life...hmm couldn't it go on top of either roof types? Yes the garage has a center valley I guess you'd call it. It's where the outside of the roof slopes down to the center and also towards the alley-back of the garage. The water then drains off the center backside of the garage and into the alley. The garage's center beam is lower than the walls. Old design I guess. Sorry for using the garage for a storage shed. I'm working towards not having anything up there as I finish projects, but storage is short. What's with the zombies Bill...? LOL Damn, I wrote a book again. Sorry. I'll appreciate any reply and this should wrap up my roofing project. I hope this discussion will help others in simular situations. I'll donate $40 to your favorite charity if you let me know. Click to Enlarge 90.73 KB

Hi, I'm a homeowner and my insurance company has given me a starter check ($10,000 will be given for the complete job) for new roofs for my home and detached garage that's downtown, hail damage and old age. I'm doing research on roofing and roofer options. I'm looking for any tips or advice and have some questions below that come to mind. My insurance agent said they may have underestimated the size of the house roof because she couldn't walk it all, too step and also said code may require more expensive roofing (modified bitumen) on the garage than what she estimated. My insurance allows me 1 year to reroof. My neighbor knows a roofer that she says did her roof and she highly recommends them. I guess I'll check with the BBB and also get a few estimates before I choose a roofer. I know to require the old roof to come off as there are spots where an old roof is under the existing one and the current house roof was a poor installation where some of the shingles were stapled, not nailed etc. I know to require nails instead of staples. I've been to consumer reports and they found roof price does not dictate quality in their tests. They highly recommend laminated shingles Owens Corning Oakridge or CertainTeed Landmark for their low price and long wear and strength. They did not discuss flat roofs though. I'm guessing the insurance company probably underestimated the costs and hopefully the roofer can work with them to get more money. I guess I may have to pay some of it myself for the level of roofing job I want. General Q's 1. How should I choose/what should I look for in selecting a roofer and what precautions should be followed? My home: Is circa 1900, 2 story, the upstairs has some dormer windows, it's the 3 tab asphalt shingles, about 2500 square feet size home. The roof is very steep. The chimneys need repointing and are missing some bricks that I have. There is a evaporative cooler. The gutters are garbage, need replacing. I believe the roof under decking is all good, it's 3/4 inch solid wood and the gapping is 1/4 inch and less. Home Q's 1. Insulation on the roof, is there a radiant heat barrier that should be installed under the roofing? 2. Is there a better way to channel the roof valleys and ridges I should insist on? 3. What's the best roof color, I suppose a light color or silver or white, to reflect the sun and for longevity or does it matter much? 4. Is there a better way of flashing the chimneys I should insist on? 5. Is the roof underlayment gap of 1/4" and under a problem-too wide? 6. Is there a roof coating that should be applied to the new roof to extend it's life? 7. Is there any underlayment sheeting I should insist on? 8. Is there flashing on the roof edges I should insist on? 9. Odd question. since the roof is so steep is there a product that can be installed inexpensively for safety at the roof edge that helps keep someone from sliding off the roof? The garage: The detached garage is a flat roof, with a slight pitch to the center so the water runs down the center out the back in the alley, there is no gutter. It's basically the size of a 2 car garage, but it's a single garage with a work shop area. The roof is rolled asphalt and the walls are stucco, the ceiling joists are 8 inch, 16 inch on center and there is a large center beam. The exterior walls are taller than the flat roof, in an art deco fashion where the corners are the tallest (maybe 15" inches taller). The interior walls are unfinished. Some of the roof sheet decking is bad and the exterior walls top may be too. Garage Q's 1. Insulation, I really think thick insulation sheeting should be applied under the roofing, I've seen this done on a flat business roof, any tips? 2. I want to be able to talk on the roof as a patio with the addition of stairs on the outside of the garage, what type of roofing is best considering price and longevity? 3. Should I install a wood deck maybe with perimeter hand rails over the new roofing if using as a patio? 4. Is there an exterior edge flashing I should insist on? 5. Is there a roof coating that should be applied to the new roof to extend it's life? 6. Is there a better way to channel the roof valley I should insist on? 7. Is there any underlayment sheeting I should insist on? Thank-you for any advice. Jim in Colorado Springs Colorado Click to Enlarge 22.49 KB Click to Enlarge 38.18 KB Click to Enlarge 43.29 KB Click to Enlarge 45.66 KB Click to Enlarge 46.02 KB Click to Enlarge 31.47 KB Click to Enlarge 24.13 KB Click to Enlarge 18.04 KB Click to Enlarge 18.13 KB Click to Enlarge 24.91 KB