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Matt Klein

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Everything posted by Matt Klein

  1. Having inspected some 500 manufactured homes for FHA loan approval, I see nothing wrong with the pocket being cut out versus cast, as long as the job was done without cracking the concrete. At the least, the installer did not try chipping the pocket out. BTW, maybe some folks do not know that most manufactured homes are constructed to be supported on piers when installed over a crawlspace, in which case the perimeter wall is not load bearing, per se. The per se being that HUD rules, as adopted by the states, requires that some perimeter openings, such as doors and some windows, be supported. Many installers shim between the perimeter wall and the underside of the frame under the edges of these openings. When these homes are installed on basement (and some crawlspace) foundations, the foundation becomes load bearing. In most cases, transverse beams are used in place of piers under the carriage beams, which means about every 8 to 10 feet. These beams each must have a column or pier supporting the mid-point. Recently, more manufactured homes intended for basement foundations have been produced that are more like conventional homes in that the home is supported around the perimeter by the foundation and a central beam running the length of the home. The central beam is supported on columns or piers. However, I have another concern in looking at the picture, for homes supported on transverse beams, EVERY end of the beams are supposed to be anchored to the foundation. Additionally, a problem I often find is that the carriage beams are supposed to be welded or bolted to the transverse beam at EACH point where they cross to complete the anchoring of the home. I usually find transverse beams anchored to the foundation, but the home not anchored to the beams. For all purposes, if the home is not attached to the transverse beams, it is not anchored. For homes with a central beam, anchoring is to the foundation, usually using pipe strapping every 6 feet as required by the codes. If in doubt about how a manufactured home is installed, be sure to record the home's manufacturer, where the home was manufactured (because many MH manufacturers have multiple plants or used to before the bad times), and the serial and model numbers. Then call the manufacturer and ask for an installation (piering) diagram to be faxed to you. If the home is newer, the manufacturer might still have the diagrams. Some are better than others. Luck is usually involved, though.
  2. I have three questions. Please note the emphasis I have used on certain words. First, does anyone know of any regulations or codes requiring IN GENERAL a sump pump system on the INTERIOR side of a basement? I know about the IPC requirements for an EXTERIOR footer drain that might need a sump pump system. I am also aware of the requirement for a sump pump for an interior drainage system that cannot drain to a main line via gravity. I am specifically asking whether anyone knows of regulations or codes REQUIRING them in ALL basements. Second, for sump pump systems on the interior side of the basement, does anyone know of any regulations or codes requiring that the sump pump pit be attached to drain lines inside the basement FOR NEW CONSTRUCTION? In other words, could a sump pump pit be used without having drain lines run to it for new construction. Please note that I have been around awhile. I know the disadvantages of installing a pit without using drain lines. I also know that retrofits are usually installed without drain lines. This question is specifically about one being installed prior to the concrete slab being poured. I need to know if regulations or codes REQUIRE drain lines. Third, for sump pump systems in basements with drain lines, does anyone know of any regulation or codes that require that the drain line be installed around the footer as opposed to under the field part of the slab, the field being the the general area of the slab as opposed to the area around the perimeter. Please note again, that I am asking about code and regulation requirements--not acceptable building practices or doing it the right way. You guys know as well as I that some people will not do things the right way until they are told to do it that way. Thanks for the answers.
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