paulmars

no quote function for me to reply. By hurricane straps, did you mean the wall to roof hardware? That's vital. yes Metal panel isn't rated, as far as I know, but the high wind building methods that I've seen place it above all shingle style roof covers. Don't install it on top of a previous shingle roof, especially in your Florida climate, moisture gets trapped in the shingle layer and corrodes the metal panel from the bottom on up. Expose the underside of the metal panels to the attic if reasonably possible. that scares me. I need double or triple protection from leaks. like peel and stick over the planking seams, then 30 wt tar paper over it all, then the final roof cover (metal or shingle) He's way wrong. Don't hire him. There's plenty of shingle roofs choices rated 120 mph. Some are 150 with specified, more robust, nailing schedules. He says rating is one thing, actual performance is another. I'm not. Just give the screws a good inspection every five years or so. REALLY? If they look ok, then they are not leaking onto my tar paper? The neoprene washers dry out. Galvalume is fine. High wind resilience is not cheap. It relies on all the proper measures being in place. No weak links. Do it right or don't bother. Look for a Fortified Home evaluator or Wind Mitigation Surveyor in your area. If you can't find either of these, download a copy of the Fortified Home High Wind Standards and become familiar with the relevant portions of it. Tab those pages with relevant specs that your contractor needs to follow and make sure he knows his work must comply with them. Inspect it yourself as construction proceeds and confirm compliance. Ive been reading the codes and much of them I dont understand. I also know field knowledge is important and I might be taking some of these codes wrong. At this point, I just want to find a great contractor who really knows his/her stuff. Either that or hire an inspector (who i also need to qualify) to be there for the entire job.

1200 sq ft house. built in 1952. Cinder block construction. Three 4/12 roofs. 5 miles inland from the west coast central FLORIDA. Im adding rafter and collar ties. Vertical rafter supports. gable end supports. Hurricane straps. Then I will hire someone to remove old shingle roof. Secure planking with 8D ring shank nails. Might use peel and stick. Then Id like a metal roof, although I might go shingle. I dont have a lot of money, but i do want the strongest roof possible. I want my home to withstand the next big one that comes thru. Is metal really that much stronger and longer lasting then shingles? What is the best strongest type metal roof? Ive interviewed many contractors and each has a different opinion. The contractor im considering now says any roof all bets are off with wind over 80 miles per hour. Still metal is way better then shingles and that all that I need is galvalume with exposed fasteners. That standing seam is way more expensive and no better. That the exposed screws will never leak. Im doubtful. Your thoughts? tks, pa

hey Chad, u gunna visit florida anytime soon? p

for outdoor humid, hot central florida. Strong structural concrete screws. Im attaching simposon H10S and LGT2 straps to my rafters and cinder block walls. Im using simpson screws to attach to the rafters, however simpson makes no outdoor concrete screws and has no suggestions. So, Im looking for the best reasonably priced outdoor concrete screws for use in central florida. thanks, pa?

I agree!

8000 lbs per cable per rafter why? what is ultimate load?

None, but I've only seen 3 wood buildings with sag and bow. All three garages. When a hurricane strikes, they will blow away. I plan on being here and intact after the storm. My ridge bow is about 3".

...769 pounds so cable rated at 1k every rafter would do?

what is wrong with my math? I never got a value that low. So how many cables would that be? Every rafter?

Im planning on installing rafter ties in my 1952 cinder block home. It has no rafter ties at all. Every time Im in the attic and look around, I wonder what holds up my roof. The ceiling joists run parallel to the roof ridge. Im also going to install collar ties. Currently there are only two. The roof does not have much sag and the walls have no apparent bow. However, Im adding hurricane straps, supports for the gable ends, and extra fasteners to hold the roof planking to the rafters. Vertical rafter supports and then a new roof cover too. So, I decided to add the rafter and collar ties too. In my research, I have discovered the idea of using cable instead of wood for the rafter ties. Cable is stronger and will allow me to remove some of the pressure on the side walls, using a turn buckle I can pull up the roof slightly. I have a string pulled straight across the ridge inside the attic. I do not plan on trying to take out all the sag (3'), just a little to remove some existing pressure on the side walls. Cable will be easier to install too. I have two unresolved questions concerning using cable. One is what size. I have found several formulas on the net on figuring side thrust, but each i use gives different results. Its most likely because I am using the formulas incorrectly. I have spent many hours trying to figure this out. Now i just want answers. Can someone help? Also, many sites discuss the number of nails/screws/bolts that are needed to fasten wood rafter ties. Using enough fasteners to hold it secure. Now, Im not sure how many that i need to connect the cable to the rafters. One would be easy, more requires a special designed fastener. Another reason for not using wood rafter ties is that I would need to cut each rafter into three pieces to get them thur the attic access hole. I have a bad back and cable is so much lighter too. This site formula gave me thrust of 1250 http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/RafterThrust.htm this one gave me 18000 http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/raisedtiethrust.htm I have used other sites too. I just don't understand all this math. So, I want to know how strong a cable to buy and if a single attachment point to the rafters is adequate. 14 rafters (not including the gable rafters), 24" oc 2x6 4/12 pitch room measurement eve to eve 205" shingle roof tks much, pa

doing so now. Tks.

been there. Still need to learn more.

i never thought of that. im not opposed to a 1/2 assed fix to postpone a new roof for 5 years, but i will never knowingly do something that is likely to make things worse. such as? Any reference sites?

you dont know me. dont be so sure you know what i will do. I posted to several sites at the same time. its likely that i will post to a few more. ive learned a lot and am still learning. i dont know what i will do yet. neither do you!

Thanks. Why not a coating or three? pitch 3.84/12

roof pics. Please scowl down to the 2nd set of pics at http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/shingle-r ... ns-188426/ and more: http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/shingle-r ... 26/index2/

define "good" Reference my point #5 ..."There has been a problem! Invalid Password or User Name".... Ahh a forum like no other, requiring me to enter name and pswd each time i post reply. I love efficiency!

my roof leaks in several places. No one can find, not even the pros. I either need a complete new roof or a coating. Otherwise the roof looks fine. Two years ago, a 4 point inspection said it has 10 years life left. I did not tell them about the leaks. It was installed in 1994, so its not up to the latest hurricane standards. House built in 1952. I have already installed rafter to block wall hurricane straps, secured the soffits, and gable end supports and used subfloor adhesive to attach the roof planks to the rafters and on the gable ends. Id like a new roof thats up to the latest hurricane standards, but a new roof is out of my budget. Im considering doing it myself, but i think its over my head. literally and figuratively. I have several questions. 1-How well do those liquid roof coatings protect from leaking? 2-If I use a roof coating, can I secure the shingles to the planks with extra nails before I apply the coating? 3-What is the best material to fix spot leaks on a shingle roof? tar, silicone caulking, other? 4-I have tas100 approved ridge vents and suspect they are the source of some/all leaks. I did replace them myself on one of my ridges and noticed that the roofer who installed them with the last roof job (1994) did not follow manu instructions. When i replaced them, 2 leaks went away, two did not and now there is a third leak in that roof. The other two roofs have same ridge vents and one of those roofs leaks too. Since I still have leaks on the roof that i replaced the vents, i never replaced the other ones. Im considering finding a better quality ridge vent (but dont know how to asses), or I might just close up the openings and have no ridge vents. Suggestions/ideas? 5-Im also considering a metal roof. That i think i could install. Id need help from a qualified roofer and would find someone to help me. From what I have read, some metal roofs, like the metal shingles can last 50 to 100 years. I like that! Ive also read that some of the other metal roofs are not every strong against hurricanes. Your thoughts? If I do #1 above, I will also replace or close off the ridge vents (#4 above). Ive lived in this house since 1986 and plan on living here for the rest of my life, so i want a roof that lasts and that i dont have to worry about. Id like to feel sucure against hurricanes too. Im ok with yearly inspections and upkeep, especially if I can do it myself. Every once in a while a plank to rafter 8d nail pokes up thru the shingles. Since 1986 I inspect yearly and seal up these holes. Which is why i asked about good shingle patching compound above. (#3) thanks much for any advice. The rainy season is about over, so i need to get busy. p

1/2" Im considering a tigerloop

I had to move the tank 3 feet further down towards ground. So, now the heater pump needs to pull fuel up 3 more feet. There was already a long distance from tank to pump. About 40 feet. The tank was at the same height as the pump. fuel got pulled up about 5 feet, over about 30, then down about 5 feet. Its been working like this for 26 years. However, I had to move tank down 3 feet. So, its now pulling up 8 feet, then over 30 feet, then down 5 feet. However, now it keeps cavitating. What to do? Last resort is to move the tank back up. Someone said a small low pressure automotive fuel pump mounted at the tank to push the fuel. This work? tks,pa

that's why Im asking for help.

honeywell central AC/heat Electronic fan timer st9103a 1036. Honeywell is no help. They want me to buy a new board for 150$. I believe its the IC (opto-sensor) on the board that's bad. I have not been able to find a schematic of this board. The IC is labeled: L 9948 814 (large dot) Y I've tried a few on line part suppliers and they cant identify it. It has four pins. Home was hit by lightning and it fried 3 items on 3 different house circuits One was the AC. The above board is telling the fan to turn on, even though the thermostat is off. I've troubleshooted and believe its this IC and want to replace it. Can anyone help me finding the original manufacturer or a generic replacement?