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  1. Hi Page, I am offering my personal experience and opinions in an effort to give you and your husband some assistance with the state exam. Several months ago(June 2011) I went through the AHIT self study course. IMO: AHIT was designed to provide the basic information to pass a state examine, as well as advertise for themselves. Nothing beats experience. I grew up in the residential construction industry as my dad was in the trade. I worked and gained my experience and asked thousands of questions from the different trades involved in the building process. My goal was to know everything about building houses, after all, it was my job. I'm confident with your husbands 20 yrs experience that he already has a head start over many that have never even been on a construction site. He should feel confident about this also. As I studied the material, any portion I didn't clearly understand (visual image in my mind) I would research until I felt comfortable about explaining this to a new home buyer. Going from student to teacher. Taking the exam: 1) I read every question as though it was being asked by a new home buyer on the job site. 2) I was in no rush, accuracy was more important. 3) I felt confident in my knowledge. Armed with these three guidelines, I felt no pressure in taking the test or doing my job for my client. Good luck to you and your husband.
  2. This chimney is one of the main features of the front of the house, so the larger size makes sense. Did have to google baronial though. Excellant definition. On a side note, my oldest son has been working in Whiting BP refinery for several years, and I moved to Griffith and also worked at BP all of 2010. just to be closer to him for a bit.
  3. one fireplace uses wood, home built 1986...no other appliances using the chimney...
  4. Is the garbage disposal drain piping proper? Click to Enlarge 49.98 KB
  5. One chimney, two flues, one blocked off with cement? Click to Enlarge 67.82 KB left Click to Enlarge 63.22 KB right Click to Enlarge 65.04 KB
  6. You imagined it. I have encountered this stuff several times. It never turns back into a solid. I'll give into that But I think it's nuts to call this a dangerous situation or to recommend shutting down the circuit till the electrician gets there. I shut the circuit off then turned it back on after the ac was shut off completly so not to overload the circuit. I called the next day to apologized for my incompetents and have them run the ac as usual. After you've done a few thousand inspections, I suspect that you'll look back and feel the same way. I'm looking forward to it. Thank you for explaining this in a manner that was understandable to me.
  7. Thanks for sharing. Another item marked of my checklist.
  8. NICEIC, IEE, BCA all have three things in common, temperature. KISS theory 1) only one of these wires showed this occurrence. 2) at what temperature do these two solids turn to a liquid? 3) how long does it take for the liquid to change back to a solid? 4) no liquid or solid at the bottom of the box below the drip. 5) how long has this liquid drip been sitting there? Kind of a simple but extreme example of reference: Candle wax at a specific temperature will change from a solid to a liquid and a short time later back to a solid. I'm understanding that these two materials react at a specific temperature causing the two solids to create or become a liquid. Which in turn is losing solid mass. Again extreme example: A 6" solid wire and its solid covering through this reaction caused by temperature now changes to a liquid, falls off and leaves the remaining solid wire and its solid covering now measuring 5". At the site I had touched my screwdriver to the drip causing some of this liquid to cover the screwdriver tip surface. After approx 15 minutes I used a paper towel to probe the liquid. It appeared to becoming as a solid form. Last night I was confident in the forums response that I over reacted. This morning with the new found information, I am now believing that these findings are relatively new and require an inspection by a qualified electrician. I would much rather have a client pay $50 to $200 for an electrician to tell them there is a problem or the HI is full of sh_t. In either case the liability now rest on the electricians shoulders. And if the client demands me to pay for an electrician to say that I'm overreacting. Fine, I will gladly pay. As this is rare and I know electricity and liquid to not play well together. Your thoughts?
  9. Transcat I called and encouraged them to give me a 15% discount. If you are interested, I can put you in contact with the right person. Yes New.
  10. To briefly enlighten those of you who have so graciously helped me with my concern. I have spent the past month and a half doing a self study course from AHIT at a cost of $1000, including their ReportIt software. Last Friday I took and passed the national exam. Along with gathering information on tool purchases, insurance quotes, new phone lines, etc....I'm confident by your comments that you are aware of the stress we face. Some days are better than others. And I do appreciate your generosity. The client was a friend helping me fill one of my four needed free inspections for the InterNACI membership quota. This was my first of many inspections. Live and Learn. I purchased the FLIR I7 to enhance my business, for $1695 new, no shipping, no taxes, no brainer. My infrared imaging is an optional service. Of course this tool will need to be upgraded, but that's a given. I plan to add Energy Auditing to my business in the near future, as time, money and my brain permits. I'm old in the Building industry and new in the Inspection arena, and every day this newness wears off. A gentleman on here once said "You have to have thick skin to survive" So again, thank you for your input. To address the Bashers: Some comments do not deserve a response.
  11. That makes sense. Thanks for the input.
  12. My question/concern is (when I flip the breaker to off) why did the 20 amp shut the power off to the ac?
  13. Ok... I can agree on the service breaker outside...I can agree with the temp being within normal...I can also agree that the 2 pole breaker middle left is for ac...I can accept the liquid answer...I agree the breaker was under a load... Facts: There were no labels for any breakers. The Hot 20 amp breaker was Not hot to the touch, felt like all the rest. There is a dripping liquid on the wire. There is a black and red wire terminating in the panel box with electrical tape on the ends(on the lower right). There are two black wires connected with a yellow wire nut(on the left). One 100 amp main disconnect in the box. Noticed no GFIC,s on the exterior or in kitchen and laundry before opening the main box. Infrared did confirm breaker and wire to be hotter than others. Shut off the 20 amp did stop the power on ac, kitchen, laundry room, fridge. House built in the mid 60's. Outside temp 88 and sunny. The facts above contributed to my opinion there is a problem of overloading on that circuit at the time of my inspection. Resulting in my recommendation an electrician be called in. My question/concern is why did the 20 amp shut the power off to the ac?
  14. Click to Enlarge 48.81 KB There is a seperate 20amp ac breaker box outside, with a pull out fuse. Yes the infrared did give me a scare seeing the breaker and wire showing hot....I'm still concerned...
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