Bill Kibbel

I just go to copper.org and find the copper tubing for fuel gas distribution installation guide. The tubing manufacturers usually refer to that guide.

It's quite likely algae. It's common in cooling towers here throughout the summer. The same algae grows in my pond. I don't think that identifying the Latin name of the stuff is as important as proper cleaning, maintenance, shutdown procedure and water treatment. I have specific advice I can send you, if you'd like.

Read 'em again. Pay attention to the wording in the sections labeled Advertising and Link Guidelines.

Canada does not require installations meet the US mitigation requirements. In fact, they discourage exterior fan installations and above the roof terminations. They also "suggest" discharge pipe terminations be a minimum of only 30 cm from openings into the building.

Some reduction systems' intake pipe is directly connected to the sub-slab drainage piping. Sometimes water is being sucked up and drains back down. It's usually more of a gurgling sound. There's often a tremendous amount if vapor sucked up into the intake. If the exhaust pipe is on the exterior, the vapor condenses during cold weather and drains back down. I have a neighbor who is referred to nationally as the godfather of radon mitigation. His systems include dealing with the condensate:

The "licensed HVAC person" needs some training. Like a majority of vent connectors I see, it is incorrectly installed. Assuming this is gas-fired equipment: In addition to the 6" clearance to the framing at the wall opening, the same clearance is needed to the wall surface for the entire length of the pipe pictured. 12 feet is too long for a 5" vent connector. I can't see how the furnace and water heater vents are combined into the single, single-walled pipe - it can be done, but it's likely wrong. Get someone competent to correct these issues, check for others and install a B-vent system. They can also install a firestop collar from the vent manufacturer at the wall opening.

If I tried converting and fixing something like that, they'd evacuate the entire township.

There's stone/tile repair kits available just for that type of issue. They're usually between $15 - $20.

Check with Kenny Hart for some options. https://www.vahomeinspectortraining.com/

Could be that the water in the radiator froze - expanded. That type of radiator doesn't have the threaded rods at the top. It doesn't always result in a leak. There are smaller diameter nipples inside those openings that insert into adjacent radiator sections.

I'd think it would be better to go along with several different inspectors. You'll be better at choosing what info is accurate and which is bs. Lotsa folklore out there. I've been part of the training for several dozen fellas. I don't charge a fee and don't care if they're local. They're just required to tell everyone they learned from the best.

I don't remember anything from the 80s. Don't want to. I saw a photo recently showing my hair and how I dressed. Did you mean 1880s?

The handle is an example of what happens to equipment when it gets old.

In my experience, there were 2 types of fiberboard used for backing plaster. One is made from the waste fibers from processing sugarcane. This was the original product of the Celotex Co. The other is made with wood fibers. What's in he picture is likely the latter. The appearance (large, long coated fibers) and building age leads me to think it is Universal Insulite. It was a popular brand.

That's fiber-cement roof decking, not insulation. It's made with wood fibers and doesn't contain asbestos.