Jim Baird

I have some Marvin casements on my master suite addition. I have to ride herd on the inside wood and recoat it with spar varnish every few years.

I have been at properties where I thought listed square footage might be in error, and had the listing agent reply that he would not discuss square footage because it is such a litigious issue. His listing only specified what the seller disclosed.

I'm the sure that installer would say that more must be better. If the roof panels outlive the boots, boot replacement might be a challenge the way that self tappers turn the hole edges up and down.

The manufacturer's rec I saw on these flanges said screws should be no more than 1 1/2 inches "apart". It did not say "on center". With a big fat screw head like these, 1 1/2 on center becomes about 3/4 inch apart. I am sure you will not see a rec that says to screw panels on thru the ridges. There is likely lots of loss of fastening power with that way.

If you are going to re-engineer that motor I would say to go green and hook up a rotary gerbil cage.

Thanks, Jim. My quick research just showed more than one how to vid saying to place screws no more than 1 1/2 inch apart. I am from the common sense generation. I used these flanges on this kind of roof 20 yrs ago and only used a screw in each corner. Am pretty sure they have not leaked. Common sense tells me that minimizing holes you punch in a roof is the best way to do it. Speaking of common sense, metal roof panels with this profile are also supposed to be fastened on the flats, not on the ridges. I fastened mine on the flats, but I have seen many installations where the installer overruled the directions and put screws on the ridges. I can only think the engineers that decided the flats are where screws should go were worried about resistance to uplift more than they were about leaks.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I guess my only question now is whether "high temp rating" qualifies as "non-combustible".

...thanks for sharing these. I swear I've seen those faces on the post office walls before.

That size boot has to span that much. My concern is the boot material being combustible.

This "boot" is adhering to a flue pipe clearly labeled 2" clearance to combustible. Could find no label on boot. Does anyone here know this boot?

The installer might be the grandson of Rosie the Riveter. This is one of several boot flanges on this roof fastened this way.

Thanks for the translation, Bill. Southerners often use "local color" in their writing.

Sorry did not see link or whatever to OP. Just last week I started one of those inspects where you cannot make any progress due to cascading problems from the gitgo. Told client he could call me off like a dog off the hunt and I would bill him hourly. Ten minutes later he blew the whistle, threw the flag, we settled amicably and I issued a letter later for the paperwork folks.

This is kind of an iceberg's tip. No deck no vent screening. Below things get funnier. "bank-owned" and empty for several years, it was scooped up by an out of state auction company and listed at a "bargain" price. Local looking for real estate deals paid way too much for it.

This owner/builder occupied this house for a few years till he gave it back to the bank. You can tell by the soot that he did have some fires in the wood stove this flue serves. It luckily did not get hot enough to ignite pine truss. Photo shows his adaptation for lack of 2" clearance to combustibles noted on the flue label. Is there anybody here that would not call for correction?