John Dirks Jr

So, back in June leak sealer was injected into the system and it was topped off with refrigerant. It’s been running perfect ever since with no leak down. Just the other day it was 24 degrees outside. I called for heat at a high demand and the head unit was able to produce 110 degree airflow. This is without an electric backup coil as this system does not have one. Impressive performance I think. Here is the actual sealer produce that was used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3CNMW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_qmXRwt1flUD97

I got a thermopile for $10 on amazon and put it in. The mv output was better than my original part but I still could not get the pilot to stay on. More troubleshooting and I discovered the wire connector for the vent safety switch connection at the back of the gas valve was bad. Some soldering and a new shrink wrap and we're in business.

In Maryland, the local community colleges also give the home inspector courses. It's a longer process since its spread across a semester. Longer than the cram courses you would get from places like AHIT or AHSI. One would think the education value might be better with a course that spreads over a longer period of time. Sadly this does not look like its true. I know personally, two ASHI inspectors who are also on the licensing board for the MD DLLR, the government entity that handles the licensing processes. The licensing board has been handling complaints of home inspection clients who say their inspector did a poor job. It seems the community college courses are teaching the students to refer, refer, refer... So this has inspectors not taking responsibility to do what they were hired to do, and it makes for a poor product. My point is in concurrence with the other members here. The actual training is more of a formality to allow you to get a license. The task of performing a good inspection and writing a good report is a whole other ball game. One thing for sure is this forum is a good place to get advice about getting into the home inspection business. I went through my initial training courses and it was pretty easy. I went out cold turkey and started doing inspections on my own. I had zero ride alongs, but I got tons of advice from the members on this forum and that helped tremendously. I'm not afraid to admit I was scared sh*tless on my first inspection and that feeling continued for about a year before I started settling down. I like that you inquired for advice about what schools are good. It shows you want something good out of your training. Thanks for serving our country

Apparently it’s not the ECO switch cutting the gas valve. It’s the thermopile. mv output too low. I got on this trail after trying to lite the pilot this last time around. I couldn’t keep it lit. Checked thermopile voltage and it’s at least 150 mv low.

Actually this flame looks ok I think. It gets more yellow to it after it’s going for a while. By checking with my FLIR thermal cam I can tell the temp at the face of the ECO limit switch. I checked and waited nearby until the stove cut of. Take temp at switch and it’s 190 degrees. I think this is supposed to be 350 degree limit switch by the numbers on it. So it shouldn’t cut out at 190 right? I’m gonna order a new one and see what happens.

Ok. If there were an air shutter on this burner, I close it to reduce air and make the mixture richer. Correct? There is no air shutter on this burner. I suppose I can try and fabricate an air shutter of sorts to limit air into the end of the burner.

Hi Jim. This needle valve idea you speak of, I might be giving this a try. I really think the problem can be solved by cooling the flame. It’s almost entirely blue now which I know is an efficient burn, and something you would want in a heat exchanger of a furnace. But in a free standing fireplace which is intended to be ornamental for visual pleasure, the flame should not be fully blue like it is. As a matter of fact, the operators manual even states such. It shows a graphic showing “blue flame, incorrect ”. “Yellow flame, correct”. So, will installation of a needle valve allow me to make the flame yellow, and thus cool it down? I mean, that’s solving multiple problems. Cools it down to prevent triggering the high limit from cutting it off and making the flame more yellow for more aesthetic appeal. Where exactly within the gas delivery lines would I install such needle valve?

When looking at replacement windows in older houses you should always consider this; Many, if not most replacement window installers are not tearing the opening down to the original framed opening. Instead they are removing the inner components of a window and leaving the outer frame of that old window in place. They then install a new complete window including a new frame inside of the older existing frame. The result is a smaller window opening. So, if the older window was smaller than today’s egress requirements, this new replacement makes the condition worse.

I read that too. But this unit has no such adjusting screw or air shutter. When I open it back up I’ll take some more pictures and post them.

Do you think if I reduce the orifice size the flame will move toward the orange color? I see no installed method for increasing or decreasing air to the burner. It’s manufactured without adjustable air shutter.

Whats the effect differences between changing the gas pressure and actual volume being delivered to the burner? I assume a smaller orifice would not reduce pressure, but it would reduce volume. Am I right? About the valve under the stove that raises and lowers the flame. Is it changing pressure or volume to accomplish this?

Top of the draft hood where the vent pipe connects is in the 350 degree range.

The draft hood is 6” from the gypsum wallboard which is more than compliant with clearance to combustibles listed for this unit. Even then, the wall temp gets to 160 degrees. That’s borderline right?

Yes it does look nice for maximum combustion and efficiency. But the ambiance is lacking and it gets hotter than it should, even on the low setting. When the logs are on, the shape of the flames change but they still stay blue, with a tiny tip of orange.

Here is the flame on the stove after being converted from LPG to NG. This is the lowest setting and it’s still too hot in my opinion. The instructions for the conversion kit mention adjusting the air shutter but this unit has no such adjustment capability, at least not the way the instructions describe. Also the manual for this model fireplace says the flame should be more orange, and not blue. If this burner has no air shutter adjustment , how do I make the flame more orange? Incidentally, I think an orange flame will be cooler. If they gave me an orifice that is too large, could that make the flame blue? What about my gas line pressure, could that be the problem? Do you have any suggestions which might help me adjust this flame to a more orange color like the manual says it should be? I want to make it look more natural, and hopefully cool it down just a little. thanks