John Dirks Jr

Ive had GL only from Selective for 12 years now https://www.selective.com/

Ah Ha! They still make it! https://www.fenix-store.com/fenix-tk15-ultimate-edt-led-flashlight/

This was great advice which I followed. The doors are in and functioning well. The rest of the project is coming along fine. We decided to go with a wood laminate flooring. We plan to use a good quality underlayment like this. > https://www.lowes.com/pd/pergo-gold-100-sq-ft-premium-3mm-flooring-underlayment/1000094785?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-flr-_-google-_-lia-_-166-_-stocklaminateflooring-_-1000094785-_-0&kpid&store_code=2594&k_clickID=go_1793073304_69358332156_346819489897_aud-299487635210:pla-533810695584_c_9007872&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxaXL69Wn4gIVh0GGCh2agQD5EAQYASABEgL4e_D_BwE The LPG to NG conversion kit for the free standing stove works great. I tested the stove in its position and its vents good with my configuration. I'll sort some pictures and post soon.

I have a similar version of Fenix that also has the switch on the side near the front. I use it around the house but not on inspections. I find the side mounted "push and hold" switch to turn on a bit wonky. Sometimes I cant even find the switch unless I look at the light. On the other hand, my old TK 15 is still in service at inspections. The bulky tail switch is easy to find. That thing is out of the holster and turned on before the beam is even on target. If I buy a new light for inspections, I'm gonna try like hell to find one with a simple on/off tail switch.

Thanks guys. The response from the shingle manufacturer was that its not the way they list in their sketches it but could still perform fine.

Here's a picture from todays inspection. These are Classic Metal Shingles. Rustic is the model. Other pictures I found on the net have them terminating in a channel next to the skylight. These just overlap a piece of flat metal with a hook it appears. I sent some pictures to the manufacturer too and Im waiting a response. Meanwhile, does this look correct?

Good info thanks. I have a more questions. The framed pillars between the door assemblies I envision as 4x4 posts. Although, should I nail together two 2x4’s instead of using single 4x4’s? My thought is the double 2x4’s would be less likely to bow or twist over time. Also, is there a flange on the door frame that overlaps the framed opening or do the doors sit flush inside the opening? I ask because I’m wondering if 3 1/2” is enough material between the separate door assemblies. If there is a flange, will there be enough room, or will the flanges need trimming or framed post made wider than 3 1/2”?

Flat sills...check! The doors across the back are mainly for viewing and natural light so having a 3/4" sill shouldn't make a problem for us. The sill plate material can also help provide a flat surface for the door sill to rest on. I could cut each sill plate piece so they are individual under each door. That way as the slab gradually slopes towards the one end, each sill plate can be independently flat directly under each door. Does this make sense as an approach? Shim each plate as needed to make them flat?

I'm not planning a floor covering, just painted concrete. The doors across the back are not generally intended for entry and exit so a 3/4" plate wont make an issue there I dont think. There will be a standard hinged door into the carport area and a slider into the mudroom area for entry / exit. I will discuss the threshold height condition with the boss and get the reaction. Sometimes that alone concludes the decision. But at least I'll keep the thresholds of the doors intended for entry / exit as low as possible. There is another condition with the line of doors across the back. The space between the slab and header is 82 1/4 at one end and fluctuates gradually 1/4" to 3/8" more across the 24 foot length, which alone I'm not too concerned with. The other irregularity is the slab line and header gradually slopes downward together towards the end of the structure. Exactly how much I do not know yet. I'm going to pull a tight string line and use a line level to see how much the droop is. My choice is how to deal with the droop. 1) just run the doors and allow each of them to follow the droop? 2) slightly stagger each door in attempt to keep them closer to a common plane? Obviously, this decision and affect the decision to use 1x as a plate, I mean the 1x would reduce the amount of space I have to fiddle with across the 24 foot span. In the pic below, the porch structure droops off towards the right of the structure. I think the slab was in this position when the structure was framed onto it. I think the framers just followed the slab.

Scroll down and expand the specs. You'll see it there. Lowes sliding door

Hmmm. The sliding door assemblies I'm looking at call for an 80" rough opening height. If I have 82 1/4, shouldnt a 3/4" plate fit underneath? Something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/severe-weather-common-1-in-x-6-in-x-10-ft-actual-0-75-in-x-5-5-in-x-10-ft-appearance-treated-lumber/4745765?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-lbm-_-google-_-lia-_-162-_-treatedlumberanddecking-_-4745765-_-0&kpid&store_code=2594&k_clickID=go_625667893_34613736790_111132543550_aud-299487635210:pla-380703942124_c_9007872&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwoi90brn4AIVAkOGCh3LwwbdEAQYASABEgJJXPD_BwE Or this https://www.homedepot.com/p/WeatherShield-1-in-x-6-in-x-8-ft-Ground-Contact-Pressure-Treated-Board-253935/206974075

Thanks for all the suggestions on the finishing. We still have time to make decisions so nothing is settled yet. On to some structural choices. There will be multiple sliding glass doors across the back wall. The header is a double 2x8 and the distance between the header and slab is roughly 82 1/4”. What should I use as a bottom plate under the door thresholds? I was thinking treated 1x6.

If it's an older water heater and you turn it off, you may cause problems. Contraction and expansion of an older unit may be enough to spring a leak and put an end to its service live. Sure, you would need a new one eventually, but you don't want to find a flood when you come home from vacation.

Thanks for pointing that out Bill. I went through the manual. I see what the manual calls an ECO Limit Switch. I think that is a high limit switch. Is this what you are talking about? I can understand that poor draft can make the draft hood heat up too much and thus a high limit switch could shut the thing down. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/47436/Empire-Comfort-Systems-Pmn.html?page=22#manual https://www.manualslib.com/manual/47436/Empire-Comfort-Systems-Pmn.html?page=23#manual In the venting instructions it says all chimneys must terminate 2' above the roof line, etc. But that is more of a standard chimney rule rather than a feature required to make the thing vent good enough, I'm guessing. The venting instructions also say there must be at least 2' of vertical vent pipe coming off the hood before any elbows are used. Maybe that is the needed amount of vertical rise needed to ensure adequate draft. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/47436/Empire-Comfort-Systems-Pmn.html?page=15#manual When I get around to tinkering some more, I'll go 2' up, then install two 45's to go through the wall, then another 1' straight horizontal. I'll fire the thing up and see if it maintains without shutting down. In any event, I can always add vertical pipe on the exterior if needed. In other news, there will be no CSST in my house. I have a new found respect for the complications of running black iron pipe in existing structures. It will be done though. The kitchen is adjacent which has gas supply so I'm lucky that complications are not worse.

I should be able to vent this thing through side wall means, right? Just like we see with the gas fireplace inserts.