omagic12

At this point I am 99% sure they are from a termite treatment, as the kind replies here have mentioned. Further internet searching points in that direction as well. I will stucco over them. Thanks for all the replies.

Finished floor is roughly level with those holes. It just occurred to me that the holes around the perimeter may have caused the deterioration of the stucco (sparkle-crete), as it's only at that level (ground meets wall) where the stucco has come off. So, can I cover the holes with new grout/stucco? I plan to continue tomorrow.

Getting ready to paint it today. Download Attachment: Post Grout Sill Front.jpg 123.49 KB Download Attachment: Post Grout Sill Side.jpg 159.11 KB

Posted a few pics. Hopefully they'll help. The first pic shows the grout/stucco feathered in. Pics also show the green sealer I inquired about. Download Attachment: Weep holes and grout.jpg 241.34 KB Download Attachment: Weep Holes 3.jpg 233.37 KB

The picture in the link doesn't show the holes, it show the damage caused in the absence of holes. Use for termite control is very likely. I remember my parent's CB home getting treated with paste one time instead of tent fumigation.

1958 CB home in west central Florida. My home has 3/8" (approx.) holes every 12" apart and 3" above the ground similar to this: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/drill-weep ... 26419.html . Some have been filled in (prior owner?), but most are now revealed due to the stucco (sparkle-crete) coming off on several spots where the ground meets the walls. I am starting to feather in some spray-deck grout on those spots and would like to know if I can cover those holes? Also, out of curiosity, during initial construction they used a green colored water proofing barrier between the CB and stucco. What is that stuff? It looks to be in very good condition whatever it is. They used it from the bottom of the slab to the top of the walls.

The owner of the supply company told me epoxy and grout on the phone the day before and when I talked with him the next day in person I mentioned that I coated a couple times with Ospho and he said that would be good enough. He was a bit odd and may have been working around industrial chemicals too long. I mentioned the epoxy a few times and said I wouldn't need it. I called Increte and they said the product should work fine for that repair and it will cure in 24 hours. I let it cure three days and put a couple coats of clear (non-yellowing) water based sealer on it today. It came out well (I hope). Could it be an issue during an appraisal because it doesn't have an extension?

Update: The owner of the supply company I went to sold me a bag of Increte's Spray Deck (white) grout and said I could use Ospho to cure the rebar to black instead of epoxy. I was able to increase the drainage slope and the product seems to very well. Should I wait 30 days to clear masonry seal the new repair? Steven, I will adding add an extension for aesthetic and drainage. I will use the DIY link I posted, but add in a bar or two of coated rebar. If it turns out well i will most like add one to the sill in the back of my home.

I ground down the sill this morning and it has much better drainage, but will be even better when finished. From what I can see there was a drainage issue on that sill since the home was built. It had a peak that was about a half inch or less in front of the aluminum window frame that would cause water to pond between the peak and the window frame. From the peak to the outer end (yard side) of the sill it had positive drainage, so it may have fooled the builder and inspector as water doesn't leak through the window frame towards inside the garage. I called this local company http://www.constructionchemicalcorp.com/products.html and the gentleman I spoke to said to expose the rebar a bit more and then epoxy over that, then use a polymer concrete that can be formed to increase the positive drainage slop even further. Download Attachment: Slope 1.jpg 335.32 KB Download Attachment: Slope 2.jpg 183.08 KB Download Attachment: Slope 3.jpg 287.05 KB

http://www.daytonsuperior.com/Lists/Pro ... px?ID=1059 That's impressive stuff.. 10,000 Psi. Thanks for that tip, I'll call around tomorrow and see if I can find it. Is it okay to use for vertical application as well?

Good idea.. thanks.

Steven you have a keen eye and I agree with your assessment. While I don't feel it needs an extension based on the sill that was repaired flush 12 years ago with a good positive drainage and still looks like new, I do think improper drainage was the problem during the home's initial construction and I need to grind down a steeper (positive) slope much like the repair at the back of my home. Fortunately, there is over an inch thick of what appears to be hard, white Portland cement that can be ground into to create the slope. I will look into the high performance grout you mentioned, do you have a brand or name? So far I am out $7 for the top & bond that I applied already, so not much pocket damage done. The 4-1/2 diamond grinder wheel ($10) worked very well so far during the initial grinding. I will post pics when I get it sorted out. Thanks for all the replies so far.

Unfortunately, I have jalousie windows on two bathrooms in addition to the garage I posted. I won't be replacing any of them as the house is currently for sale. I ground it flush with the wall and used this http://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-10-l ... /100275522 . I plan to use the following steps to cover the new concrete: masonry sealer> white latex primer> white latex topcoat> masonry sealer. Does that sound right? How long should I wait to paint after applying the first masonry sealer?

Most dryers have two elements: a low heat and high heat element. Possibly, one of the two is not working.

I think they were advertised as "The Stinkerator" part STove part sINK part refrigERATOR .[8D]

Sounds good to me. Thanks for your replies Kurt and Marc.

I just used Grout Refresh poly-blend (paint + sealer) grout paint on my kitchen floor and it turned out really well. Just trying to get feedback from others who have used this or a similar product and what I can expect as far as durability and keeping it clean.

I don't recall the sill that was repaired flush 11 years ago having any material other than concrete. He may have used waterproof concrete. Wouldn't a metal cap (besides stainless) rust? Also, on the first image I posted it shows a more porous, grey concrete underneath the harder, whiter (portland) concrete where the rebar was embedded. Is it best that I cut all of that softer grey concrete out and replace it, or repair over it?

The rebar is rusted but still solid. I have another sill located in the back of the house that was crushed by a fallen oak tree. The guy that fixed it made it flush against the exterior wall and it's been fine for the past 11 years. That's why I asked if an extended sill is just cosmetic, especially with a CB home that has a type (sparkle-crete) of stucco. The sill in the pics is the only one on that side of the house and may not look out of place much if repaired flush. Seems like most newer homes don't use extended sills. I am afraid I am talking myself into the easy way instead of the right way and need input of the brain-trust here to get me motivated to do it right the first time around.

Concrete block home in west-central Florida. A few light taps with a hammer and now one of my sills is near flush to exterior wall. My options are this: http://www.leucht.com/blog/2007/02/repl ... rior-wall/ or grind/cut it flush with exterior wall and repair with quick set adhesive concrete. Leave it flush with no extension. Unlike the repair in the link I would add re-bar to the extension if, I go that route. Is the extension for window sills purely cosmetic or there for drainage as well? Should I trowel-cement/seal-primer/paint the portion of the wall underneath the sill? My home is coated with a "Sparkle Crete" which was very common on older homes in my area decades ago. All suggestions welcomed Download Attachment: EWS1.jpg 1795.99 KB Download Attachment: EWS2.jpg 1745.9 KB Download Attachment: EWS3.jpg 1638.02 KB

Update: I tried to remove rust stains with "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner and it was basically ineffective after two passes. The whitened (etched) concrete was less visible after I coated it with two coats of clear sealer. Bottom line is I would have saved myself time and trouble if I just left it alone. The experienced gained however, is that I will not bother with concrete flooring again unless I plan to do the whole floor. Thanks for all the replies.

Wire brush and (optionally) use The Works toilet bowl cleaner to help remove rust. Afterwards coat with Ospho https://www.google.com/#q=ospho&tbm=shop turns rust to black. Similar to POR-15, but cheaper. If you paint over it give it a few days to dry out first and do not get it on concrete as it will etch.. I learned the stupid way. However, as others have stated it does depend on the depth of the rust.

Sounds like you are very fussy about your house and it is probably very nice. I advise you to leave the house during the home inspection or your head will explode. Well, normally I am a function over form type owner. I like to think my home is nice, but definitely not fully updated (built in 1958) and modern like some people like and I only obsess over issues that may keep it from selling . Again, my concern came about because some buyers may view the original stain as a water leak from underneath caused by a rusted pipe (of which it is not). If I were really concerned how it looked prior to putting my home for sale I would've approached it years ago.

If I do cover it I will clear seal those stains and buy a G-Floor roll out for $300. Quick, inexpensive, nice looking covering that has very good reviews. Thanks for all the replies.

That's the article I read that gave the water/acid 10:1 ratio. Here's a good video: http://video.about.com/garages/How-to-C ... -Stain.htm