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phases

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  1. While I do have a box fan or two, I'm not sure I want that as a permanent solution! As for humidistat.. well, as I had left it running accidentally for 3 this AM with the humidity still not going below 65. (sometimes its in the 50s tho, just depends on the day) I don't et the wall mount fan heater. I don't want more heat in there that's for sure! One option I guess, an old school rotating table top fan, just put on the counter and blow air into the shower for a few minutes when done.
  2. You know, the supply register's ductwork is no smaller than the vents so, Between that and the near inch gap under the door, I don't think I'm too worried about having the door shut and really reducing efficiency or harming the fan. Two showers since install, have fared real well. It really seems to move the air! The room itself is just higher humid than the rest of the house and I don't know what much more I can do about that. I accidentally left it running 3 hours this morning, it was still mid 60s Rh. Still wet in the shower (that will be wet non stop unless I can sort out some circulation in there). So, I think the fan itself, its placement, etc, I'm happy with. (and it's of course so much quieter!) If I want to improve further I'll have to take other measures. Thanks again all!
  3. We don't get any fog but it ranges from 60-75 humidity depending on the day / hvac / etc. It'll hit 65 with no shower yet that day and just feels humid. Rest of the house is around 55. Take a 3 min moderately hot shower and it'll get into the 70s (with the last fan). I'm wondering if its just fairly chronic and each shower is agitating things even when fast, never completely dry. I know the floor of the shower pretty much never dries with me showering in AM and her showering at night. Even going 24 hours in between its still a little wet. Tub dries fast though.
  4. Thanks for the replies guys. Yes it does make sense, I'm just hoping to not have the effect of air coming straight through the top of the door way and straight up into the fan, thus leaving all the rest of the bathroom stagnant. I've got conflicting thoughts on open vs shutting the bathroom door. If it wants to move 140 cfm, wouldn't I chock the fan by closing the door, thus turn it into a 70 cfm, effectively? Though, between the door cracks and the floor register I would think it would come close. Perhaps cracking the door is the best compromise. I have to count on turbulence, and/or moisture/humidity rising above cooler air, to feel comfortable with it, I think. Warm air rises so, Yeah I think the cool from the doorway would/should just kinda go under the warm air and keep the flow working well. (Especially with the two foot of wall above the door to hold the warm air)
  5. Hi all! Well, I'm here naturally, with a question. Long story short - our bathroom is too humid, so I took the 15 year old fan out and put in a new one. - old was in toilet area (you can sorta see the door into it on left side of pic of new fan. It was 50 cfm, and the vent ductwork was pointing the wrong way and so made a 180 to go out of the house (over shower), and it was confined in that room. - So, I took that out, came outside of the room, got a 140 cfm, mounted it the correct orientation. So now it is not in the room, and probably 6ft less duct travel time with no bends. But here is my concern, now that I have it up and the dry wall started, of course. Is it a problem that it is right above the door out of the bathroom? Will it just pull fresh air from there and blow that out and not actually vent the steam/moisture from the bathroom?? I can move it one or two joists toward the middle of the bath but .. well, frankly I'm in deeper than I want to be already LOL. (I've never done drywall). Then it would also have at least one possibly two bends in the ductwork going out and be longer again. So. 1) above door, but out of bathroom at least, 10ft or so run to side of house, no bends, start repair. Or, 2) lots of work to move a joist or two, add 4 or five feet of duct, 1 or two bends, lots more repair. I do think 2 would be "better" in a perfect world, but is it fine enough as is (without the added loss of CFM due to the bends) to justify skipping all the work? Will the steam rise above the cool air of the other room anyway so, no worries? (also note, there is a second sink to the right of the one you can see, across from the toilet room section, and the air supply register is directly below the new location for exhaust, on the floor in doorway coming in) Help! And, thanks Click to Enlarge 22.91 KB Click to Enlarge 46.2 KB Click to Enlarge 37.74 KB Click to Enlarge 20.21 KB
  6. If that were in my area you wouldn't have a chance to get it now that I've seen it. Incredible. What age?
  7. Just spent over 2 hours with the mold guy in the crawlspace and I feel WAY better. First thing I learned was that flash photograph in a crawl with shadows and on wet/sprayed stuff comes out much worse in pictures. I almost felt foolish looking in person after having got hyped up with pictures. Second I was assured it is WDO fungus not a mold and that its all dead from his spray. he wiped some off, was fine. Everything survived the screwdriver test. We're going to clean off all the dead stuff, get it dry down there, replace the vapor barrier, install a dehumidifier in dead center. Oh and remove all the insulation. The walls already have some sort of insulation, looks like foam, all the way around the whole place. They are just holding moisture. Might it be the best approach? Well I think we can all agree that's not really agreeable, but he made me feel comfortable with his experience and knowledge while we were down there and I believe him when he said that's what he'd do if it were his. Oh, and we think we found the problem. The homeowner was telling the Realtor about stuff he'd done and was talkin about the crawl since it was the topic of the day, talking about how much he's spent down there already, and was telling her about the new insulation around all the ductwork, which started after they found a big hold in duct spewing AC into the crawl. I think right around the area the trouble was. As for the spring water barrel, no where near it is any sign of moisture or mold but the condensation on the pipes going into it, which we insulated. Bottom line, it's clearly fixable, not nearly as big a scope as i thought, the wood tested good, and I'm comfortable with our approach and comfortable with going a step further if it doesn't work. So I'm very happy right now. Thanks all for your insight!
  8. Short version: The water barrel is coming out tomorrow it will take them most the day, it would be too awkward to show up with the encapsulation fella. So I got him on the phone gave him sq ft, height, approximate other stuff and asked what sorta range would I be looking at. He said it sounded like a 5 to 7k job, as long as encapsulation and conditioning is all that is needed. He said other drainage systems etc would of course cost me. Which to me means 7 to 10. I will still get him to come out and evaluate with me in the future but I may not elect to hire someone to do it, if it is determinded the encaps/condition would be sufficient. I'm fairly convinced I could do it myself with the help of Google. Going under in a couple hours to stab with a screwdriver. Will keep ya updated.
  9. I read the link, whole thing. I'm sold. I have these guys coming out tomorrow to discuss conditioned crawlspaces: http://www.crawlspacedoctor.com/index.p ... crawlspace I'll get quote. See what sellers say, go from there. They did say they don't do mold though. They fix the moisture problem and the mold won't thrive grow or live, but that it would need to stay or be removed by me or someone else, personal preference. What a mess. Do you know the added cost to your utilities bill you might see conditioning it? I read in the link you gave that conditioned is more energy efficient than passive venting so, maybe it evens out or works out better.
  10. Isn't that what encapsulation is to meant to do though? Block the moisture from that?
  11. I'm taking tons of pictures, I'm taking my DSLR. Because I don't know if someones takes the pile of crap and throws it into a fan, if I'll be allowed back in again. So I'm taking tons. We will stab every affected 2x4/subfloor. That picture looks like they are in worse shape, subflooring is black, this is mostly.. spotty, so hopefully we're in the clear. But I didn't even think about probing the wood and am forever grateful I saw your note before going under with him. Thank ya.
  12. Oh my! I'm going under today with a mold company. I will push with full force with screwdrivers.
  13. Thanks for the reply. I agree which is why in my original post I stated the plan was to completely encapsulate (20 mm vb?) ground and up walls, and block off all the vents. Dehumidifier for good measure. But I'm more than happy to not pay for that if I don't need to. I will say the parts of dirt I see are bone dry... where the current vb is failing to cover.. As for the french drain, I meant just for the hill outside the house (if it were still an issue) and I say that because there is evidence there was water coming in through the vents on that side of the house. It's a good hill. I think he noticed it and put in the long four foot wide ditch by the house with the wall along it, and lowered the ground level. i went in huge downpours to monitor and nothing was coming near them now. But, see attached. Hard to tell with the ditch pics sorry, but that is what I think started all this off to begin with then it was never really dried out, so.. here we are. No offense taken I will be the first to tell you I'm in a learning process here. I appreciate your help. Click to Enlarge 13.82 KB Click to Enlarge 35.16 KB Click to Enlarge 162.87?KB
  14. Is the blue liquid that has been sprayed all up in there not EPA registered fungicide? I looked at your link. I will have to look at it again but it seemed at first glance a bit more than I'm sure I can handle alone. Unless closing off all my crawlspace vents but one or two then putting continuous fans in those and letting it pull air from the house is the short and sweet from one of those diagrams. That I could handle. I do think the dehumidifier is something I'd be hard pressed at this point to be talked out of. I do know the water problems I believe and can address those. One is a water barrel in crawl attached to spring water out on the edge of the property. You can use city or spring water plumbing in the whole house. Cool concept but it is sweating profusely, as is all lines coming and going from it (spring water is coooold), and it is leaking. There is a chance there is some run off from the hill by the house going into the vents which a french drain will solve, but I think that was solved prior, hence the giant ditch along side the house. I believe they had big water issues with the hill, put in the big ditch but never fixed the mold, and also around that time introduced the crazy sweaty water barrel and one crawlspace vent fan. But frankly I'm not convinced that the fan's not pulling 90 degree air from the outside only adding to the problem.
  15. (Failed to add the two scariest pics so I edited those in) " Keep the vapor barrier below the metal cap." Metal cap? Edit: Oh nevermind, gotcha. Thanks for the input! No idea about termite levels in this area, I've never seen one, but I've only owned one home, only been under 3 or 4.
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