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  1. It maintains at a 3-4 during the day but goes down to barely detectable early morning. ? That side of the house hardly gets beaten by the sun + its a basement room. Its also again milder than usual here with day temps in the low teens ©.
  2. The insulation was sprayed on poured concrete basement walls with new wood framing. The walls appeared dry and fissure-free. I don't know if a moisture test was performed before spraying. The smell peaked at a 6-7 scale last week and is now maintaining at a 3-4. We also had a sump pump pit "tunnel" which used to be an access to the basement from the outside sprayed during the same time. That section is 100% yellow foam and while there's good ventilation in there because we installed intake/uptake fans, we detect no smells.
  3. Closing the HVAC vent in the room brought the smell down to nearly undetectable levels. We just re-opened that vent this morning & a few hours later the smell is more noticeable. We removed the section of vent that is feeding into that room to check for any irregularities (there were none) and cleaned it for good measure. My installer came by while it was (of course!) nearly smell-free. He could not smell anything. I asked him about the color differences he said the darker foam is Johns Manville and the rest of the room is Enerlab. He did not explain why that was. He speculated
  4. Is it possible that the unevenly cured foam in a basement room is giving me chemically-type new car smells on the 1st floor? I've been dealing as well with a faint but unchanging new-car type smell upstairs. It seems logical given the odor from the foam but the smell is not like rotting fish, its more of a freon-new car-freezerburn type smell.
  5. When I get a hold of the installer I'll ask him who the mfr was. All I have on my bill is Type 2.
  6. It would have been in the mid 20's © and moderately humid as I recall. Do you think the blueish portions are the uncured portions?
  7. Thanks Kurt. Not what I was hoping for but now we'll get started on making it right. It's been unseasonably warm here in my part of Canada. The smell coincided with the first few days of colder weather last week. Perhaps the hot air pipes had something to do with an uptick in the smell. Also, its barely noticeable in the morning and seems to increase as the day progresses. I would prefer to have the installer come when it indisputably smells.
  8. We had a basement room which has 2 outside walls sprayed with type 2, closed cell spray foam this summer. The room was stripped bare and re-studded before the spray. The walls were gyprocked, primed & painted but the ceiling is yet to be finished. We experienced the typical fish smell which dissipated as expected a few days later. We use the room as a craft shop and have had no smell issues until last week. All os a sudden that fishy smell is back and its definitely coming from that room. Yesterday we opened the basement door and installed a box fan in the patio door to try and vent-ou
  9. All makes good sense to me. The expert has a reputation for being straight & honest - but then, he can't go wrong selling a bulletproof solution at a fair price, even if that's not strictly necessary (or at least not yet). I'm hoping to avoid problems, but within a budget closer to 5k than to 25k. You've just reminded me of something else he mentioned - that the life expectancy of these drains, with 4" perforated ABS pipe - is around 30-40 years. When inspecting it, there had been an obstruction that cleared when the camera went in, and water flowed into the sump pit. Does the sheer ag
  10. Thanks Marc. I think that's DRIcore. Looks pretty neat. The drainage fix I'm considering would be like trenching the corners of a tent, only underground - starting from the corners of the foundation slab. I don't know if having only a couple of such underground drains/conduits would be sufficient to lower the waterlevel all around the foundation, or if they would only drain the water in their immediate vicinity.
  11. Thanks for your replies. He found the pipe sitting on the footing by digging - excavator dug down 8 feet along the exterior of the foundation wall until it reached the pipe, which was sitting on (rather than alongside or below) the concrete slab. Here's an image I found that captures the situation: Click to Enlarge 27.99 KB What he concluded was that the pipe (with the perforations on top) would only drain water to the level of the footing/slab, rather than below it, causing water to accumulate not below the basement floor level, but at it. Thus the buildup of hydrostatic pressu
  12. Hi All, I'm new to this and hoping for some advice. An inspection of a 40-year-old house has revealed that the french drain pipe encircling the house at the foundation level (some 8 feet below the surface) is placed on (not below) the concrete footing. It was explained to me that this causes the water to remain level with (not below) the concrete slab, and that it's only a question of when (not if) the hydrostatic pressure will cause either the cove joint or the basement floor itself to leak. The water level in the sump hole tends to be high, and the sump tends to run more often as
  13. According to the owners the damage was done while updating the septic in 1994. There are 2 lids to the septic and are quite close to the house. One lid is abutting the doors to the walkout in fact. I suspect that pipe near the crack has something to do with the septic. ?
  14. Thanks Kurt. Nope, no mention of an oil tank - the house has central air. Also wondering what the open-ended pipe along the stairs with the wires is. Any relation to the septic? Also, isn't it strange that the sump pump would be in the walkout wall?
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