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CheckItOut

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  1. House I looked at today had a mix of copper and poly plumbing and a few pieces of PEX at the newly installed water heater. Cold line did have a bond wire on it within about a foot of water heater. Due to PEX, the bond is not carried through WH and remainder of copper. Since most plumbing is hidden, I don't know if they have copper, poly back to copper. What I am getting at is trying to figure out what the point would be in running a bond to the hot line at WH to re-bong lines as they were at one time. With all the poly, does not seem like it will do much good other to equalize potential (with electrical system) for the little bit of copper I can see. Write it up or keep moving?
  2. Inspected a house built in 2003 with a second floor that was just finished this month. Heat pump was manufactured in 1989. Buyer was not real thrilled to lean this. CO just obtained. Efficiency is very low compared with minimums of today. According to the State, federal energy standards prohibit this (unless hoops are jumped through), but since that is not mentioned in the code book, code official can't do anything about it.
  3. This is a subpanel in a 1966 house. Neutrals are on buss bars. All of the available bars are tied together we can't just add grounds to bars the neutrals are on. Grounds are connected at a variety of places including under one of four screws holding the buss/breaker assembly to the panel box. Another example is a bunch of wires twisted together that are too short to reach a connection point so another wire is twisted to them and placed under a screw. Is the proper ground wire attachment point the lugs on either side of the box? Just stuff a bunch of wires under the lug and snug? Click to Enlarge 58.34 KB
  4. ie a separate ground wire vs. two hots and a neutral. House was built in 1953 but has breakers now and I'd guess the panel boxes were replaced in the 70's. Trying to figure out what year the four wire was required vs. three.
  5. Nothing come out of the other side so I'd say no. Maybe a damper?
  6. House built in 1953 and this is right off the supply line coming through foundation wall. Kind of rounded at the bottom with a bolt/nut on the bottom. Click to Enlarge 45.43 KB
  7. That is correct, it is not connected to anything.
  8. House is ten years old. Click to Enlarge 40.74 KB
  9. Title says this was moved to a new thread. Where is the new thread?
  10. Made of standard 8 x 8 x 16 CMUs. I have never seen a foundation wall as smooth as drywall. If not smooth and even, the large rigid foam board (some are full 4 x 8 sheets) will not fit flush.
  11. In the process of sealing my crawl space and ran the vapor barrier up to about 3" from top of foundation wall. Now I am installing Dow Thermax 1.5" R-10 on the walls. Since the foundation walls are not perfectly smooth/even, the insulation board will not make full contact with the walls. If not making contact, it is not doing much good. Most installations I see have spray foam sealing gap between the board and foundation wall around the perimeter of the boards. So the space between the board and wall is still present but air flow has been cut off. My concern with this is a possible condensation issue due to the cold foundation wall (in winter anyway) and warmer back of insulation board. What do you think the chances of condensation formation are here?
  12. That hit me just before I read your comment. I don't know if they extend down or not. I can't see them - plastic in the way. If they did extend all the way down, we'd have a problem which is that brought up the issue. So they must not extend down.
  13. Do you have a picture of the wiring diagram by chance? No, but you can see four wires at the main lugs.
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