jodil

Hi Mike, I dont understand your question about licensing in ND. Can you reword? So what you are saying is that each unit should have its own main breaker outside with the subpanel being inside the unit? That was not the set up here. It was one main for the whole building, then each condo has its own panel with no main (and yes it was set up like a main grounds and neutrals all on the same bar.) So there should be a main breaker then on each unit outside right?

Ive been told that all condos and apartment buildings must have a main breaker for the building located outside (if anyone knows where that exact verbage is please post) But, shouldnt each condo have its own main breaker at the panel? Yesterdays inspection on a 4 year old condo came up with no main, builder says its fine since there is one at the end of the building? thanks

I am sure this is a simple question but I havent seen this before, so: Image Insert: 42.17 KB Feels like cement, ceramic-ish... Is it normal to nail it right on like that?

Women always read the manuals frank Well kinda... No, it has no threads, and the plastic cap is still taped to the top. I read the instruction label on the side of the 14 year old 80 gallon unit: Image Insert: 48.97 KB

In case you dont know what it looks like here it is: Image Insert: 51.33 KB

Is it necessary to remove the shipping nipple and replace with the plastic cap per manufactures instructions? What if you dont? Then what? Thanks

I did not take a temp reading. The hot line was hotter to the touch than the cold, but not by much. I didnt notice a drop in temp at the faucets, it was consistant. I will note to have to plumber check the for dip tube issue. He has to come for 9 leaks anyways. Can you explain in laymens terms about this baffle deal mentioned above? thanks Jodi

Is it common for the cold water line to the gas hot water heater to be hot to the touch up to two feet before it enters the tank? I havent seen this before and am curious. Water heater was a year old and only on a medium heat setting. Thanks

Since there is most likely OSB or a solid form of decking underneath, combined with no ventilation in the attic and blanket insulation installed on the back side of the decking, would you say that all of these factors are contributing to this premature deterioration?

Ahhha~Your'e so smart Mike! I would never of noticed that.

I dont know if this photo is any better at showing you what you need to know. Image Insert: 89.66 KB The attic was partially finished off (inside of attic had blanket insulation covering everything) which was just installed. According to the home owner (and the Realtor whom has sold and listed this house several times over the last 10 years) it was completley redone four years ago. I didnt think to ask him if it was under warranty. The front side (as seen in the above pic) has the most moss (due to the huge tree in front) but appears in better condition even with the moss than the back side. I worry about it, since the seller is a "handyman" and has done a crappy job at other repairs (cutting a doorway through the foundation to make a storage room where the cistern used to be with nothing re-enforcing the opening.) thank you

Hi, I read everything on this forum in regards to shake roofs, and know alot more now. However, I'd like you alls opinion about this one. This roof is only 4 years old. It has ALOT of moss (large pieces of moss growing underneath top layer has popped off some shakes), there are several shakes in various areas that have already been replaced, and I could see felt in various areas. Image Insert: 62.52 KB Image Insert: 59.75 KB The realtor asked me when she showed up if the roof is "serviceable?" I told her any roof is "serviceable." (just a matter of how much service one is willing to pay for?) Anyways, is it typical for such a newer roof to have so much moss? (There is a huge oak tree in the front that completely blocks the front from any sunlight.) What is your opinion of the roof in general? Thank you!

No, I meant the front panels on the furnace (blower area and burner area) the furnace was very old so alot of the heat was coming off the burners. I'll order the code check books. Most of the combustion intakes that I have seen here (and I hopeIm using the right term) are made of aluminum accordian style venting going from outside to inside the room. I hadnt seen one in the attic before. thank you!

Its very common here to find combustion air intake for furnace room in basement. However, today I find one that terminates in attic. The furnace was missing both covers so lots of warm air was rising up the intake and going into the attic. Besides that factor not being a good thing, what other issues can you think of as to why this vent should not be in the attic? Thanks

Im so glad you posted this Kurt. A friend of mine (a single mom with twin 2 year olds) lives in a triplex, and shares the furnace with a downstairs apartment. The guys that live down there are always smoking pot, and it filtrates throughout her apartment. She has called everyone, and the city says its fine because it used to be a SFR that was now converted to a triplex. Is there any recourse for her? (I told her, to keep the thermostat in 55 this winter and get some space heaters to freeze them out since shes the master of the controls!) Jodi

Thinking like a Realtor? Please tell me how all Realtors (lumped into a single pile ) think? Do they think like ALL home inspectors? Like ALL use car sales persons? Bad choice of words Chris... What's worse, making them nervous up front or having them financially injured and all pissed off at you later? You're thinking like a realtor. Also it doesn't do any good to put such information in the report unless you voice a recomendation to do something about it; I come from the land where I have to do so. In other words, lets say somewhere you put in your report the age of the water heater, which at the time of the inspection was working perfectly fine. Then somewhere else in the report you have a list of expected service life. When the water heater goes out as soon as they move in, do you think they will remember that you kinda warned them in the report? That they, if they had performed some quantitative anaylsis and added two and two together, that they would have come to the conclusion that the water heater was old and that they needed to be prepared to replace it? Hell no. Chris, Oregon

What I mean by the siding ending a foot above the window is this window is below grade a couple of feet (its not a true egress since its not a real basement.) You can tell from my first pic in this post where the window well is (see the timbers that frame out the well area?) Here is another example of a different basement window. This one the siding ends just at the top of the window. These are not replacements, this house is only 5 years old and is 4000 sq. ft. (a very expensive home in this town) Image Insert: 32.9 KB The wood you see at the bottom of pic 1 (original post) and here part of the foundation. My concern is that once that black plastic has disinigrated the wood will be right up to the soil.. I'll go read the wood foundation download now. Thank you!

I dont know too much about wood foundations, so hoping some one else does here. This is more a window question than anything, heres the pic... Image Insert: 102.72 KB This egress window doesnt look right to me. Although I am not used to seeing windows with no siding around them. Shouldnt there be some type of flashing or something overlapping the part where the nails are? The siding stops about a foot above the window. thanks

I knew it would have some strange name from mars.... Thanks!

Now that I have some experience, I am not feeling the self inflicted pressure to be like the other two inpspectors in my town when it comes to report writing. It has been a custom here to have a "life expectancy" section on the summary page of appliances that MAY die in the next 5 or so years. Does anyone do this in their reports? I dont like the idea. I have no way of guessing when a furnace will die. I dont like the buyer getting all nervous that they MAY have to buy a new water heater, AC unit, and furnace maybe, possibily sometime soon cuz the book says so.... What say you?

This is located on a water line going to the humidifier a the furnace and its leaking. I dont want to call it a "thingy" in my report so I am hoping for a better term. Image Insert: 39.64 KB

I see that the red wire coming off of the 15 amp breaker feeds the box to the right that says "30 amp" on the actual breaker. So what does that mean then?

Hi, my question has a few parts, but first lets look at the subject: Image Insert: 69.22 KB The panel where the SEC comes in is a Generl Switch Co. 100 amp panel. It has two pull out blocks at the top and four small fuses below (15, 15, 15, and 20amp) Then below that four other fuses (15,15,15, and 20amp) So wheres the main? Are those large pull out block fuses the main? If so how can I tell (and how can you tell what size amps those style of fuses are without pulling the whole thing out?) Secondly, the panel to the left (breakers) is that a subpanel? How do you know? If it is a subpanel arent the neutrals and grounds supposed to be separated? The box to the right is just a 30 amp breaker.

Is pvc a common material to be used for the main line coming in (through basement floor?) I personally havent seen pvc used, but that doesnt mean much The basement is only five years old, out in the country on rural water (not a well, just not city water.) It made me a little nervous being that it gets so damn cold here, but being that it is located at least 7 feet below the ground, I assume it wouldnt freeze? thanks

Great info guys. So if the valve gets stuck open just how much water can potentially come out? Im going to practice on mine and fams this weekend, before I ruin someones basement floor...