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  1. One thing to note also is that the 2 wire setup often has reverse polarity. With that said, if a computer hard-drive is plugged into this outlet, the motor in the harddrive will run backwards which will ruin the harddrive. If Im wrong correct me! BIGDOG
  2. Brian- Lead is NOT threaded, like galvanized (at joints). Lead has joints that look like "bulbs" and is not magnetic either. I carry a magnet on a extended handle to test for this and to "recover" any screws that I may drop in an unreachable area. Randy
  3. Called around to some HVAC guys. They said they have never heard it labeled that way (forced sleeve air). But they said it is the unit found in closets in Condos that have the Furnace/Air combo. Normal ductwork, normal thermostat, etc. Furnace is on the top, AC evaporator on the bottom. The entire unit is bolted to a sleeve in the closet and can be electric or gas. Unit is exhausted out the wall and is covered with a grill exteriorly. Examples: Trane (Skymark) Armstrong (Magic Pack) Randy
  4. Hey guys, I have an inspection tomorrow, and the Realtor called to tell me that the Condominiums heating is listed as: Forced Sleeve Air The realtor said that he never heard of it but wanted to give me a heads-up on it. I never heard this term before? Is it someone making up a fancy name for your typical Forced Air Furnace? - the furnace is Electric - realtor said that there is a switch alone on the wall that says Warm/Cool Sounds to me like your typical electric furnace and thermostat? Maybe a heat pump? Am I missing something here? Thanks for any input! Randy
  5. Isnt this the same concept as a subpanel, where the neutral and ground must be separated and isolated? Where the ground would be hot from the sub to the main, if it was on the neutral bus in the sub? Thats why the ground and neutral can share the same bus in the Main, but not in the Sub. Maybe I'm missing the entire point? Randy
  6. Stupid question, but if AFCI's are located at the panel, cant you test them like a GFCI in a panel? Just press the test button and see if the AFCI trips? Wouldnt this be suffice; therefore why would you need the Suretest? Are there AFCI's at OUTLETS or only at panels? Is that what the Suretest is for...at the outlet? Thanks, Randy
  7. What if I only use your basic GFCI tester and neon bulb tester when testing ELEC. then is it still testable? I heard that you dont have to test AFCI's.. is that true? What is the testing process even with the Suretest? Any detailed infor would be helpful! Thanks, Randy
  8. What can anyone tell me about the testing process for AFCI's. I know what they are, but do they have the same setup as a GFCI with the Test and Reset button? Are they located in the Mainpanel or just on the outlets themselves. How do you test their function? Thanks, Randy (cant change username from bigdogbonz?)
  9. I have a general question about the inspection of condos. I realize that everyone may have a slightly different answer. When inspecting condos, what do you report on and what do you leave out? Generally, the roof, exterior, grounds and possibly even the foundation are "common" space that is the Associations responsibility (as I have learned).Do you briefly look it over and report significant findings, or write them off as NOT inspected because they are the responsibility of the Association? Thanks for any input Bigdog (I updated my profile, hope I gave enough, dont want to be known as the mystery man!)
  10. How did you ultimately write up this in your report if you didnt know what you were looking at? Have further evaluation by HVAC tech? Bigdog
  11. Mike, You lost me on the explanation about Carrier. Beginning with R in 1964, skipping letter Z and ending in 1979 with H? Which way are you working in the alphabet ascending or descending...either way I run out of letters before years? So everything is in the SERIAL #, and not the MODEL #? Carrier Blue Book only gives the Model #. I think Serial # sounds right though. Any input on the Water Heaters? Thanks, Bigdog
  12. Bobby Ryon, This was the first time I ever posted here. Must have the wrong guy. I'll fill in my PROFILE soon. Bigdog
  13. I had to reply to this topic, as I find it quite humorous! I consider myself fairly new to the business and fantasized about doing 3/day. That was when I was in HI class. Now that I am out there actually doing them, reality is probably 1 a day and some days 2/day...alternating every other day would be great (2 one day 1 the next). My inspections take 3 hours for your average 1500-2000sqft home and figure an hour between inspections (minimum). With that said, my 8-9 hour day is filled and I'll go home and sleep pretty well knowing that I actually looked at the house! 4/day?!...come on! I wouldnt even consider my fantasy of 3/day anymore! Bigdog
  14. Compliments to this site!!! Never thought I would get responses this quick! Never heard of the Preston Guide? I'll check the internet to see if I can find it. If I cant I'd appreciate hearing where to find it. If anyone else has any magical answer to my original question, I'd love to hear from you. Thanks again guys! Bigdog
  15. I am "relatively" new to the business, and was wondering if anyone had some input on "dating" furnaces and AC? I notice that alot of the newest models have a manufacured date on them, but the older ones make you read into the model/serial; #'s. Is there any easy way to read into these numbers for each different manufacturer? I have the Carrier Blue book, but it only goes to '93. I figure too that you could call the manufacturer while on the site and ask if they could tell you, but I would like to save time! Water heaters seem to pose the same problem. Any input would be helpful!! Bigdog
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