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About Lasswell

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  1. I was inspecting a new house and I am pretty certain the drain line for the sprinkler system is not put together correctly. In the crawlspace a short galvanized nipple was threaded into the CPVC and then had flexible tubing hose clamped to it. The tubing made and immediate 90 degree bend and is kinked. It had no support where it ran across the crawlspace and then was hose clamped to a section of copper pipe which threaded into CPVC which exited to the exterior. Does anyone know the code requirements for material for the drain line on a fire sprinkler system? Also this was thr
  2. I am not exactly sure what you are looking for but here is my $.02 I am also going to make the assumption that this house is post and pier and does not have a foundation. 1. White fungal growth under the vapor barrier is nothing to worry about. I see it all the time. 2. Posts that have decay should be replaced. If the pads aren't 6" above grade recommend using pressure treated lumber for posts. Cut ends should be treated with appropriate end cut solution. There should also be gasket material between posts and footings to prevent wicking of water from the concrete. 3. What is t
  3. Thanks guys, I haven't seen this before but I basically said in my report the same thing you said MGB. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything. Thanks John
  4. I recently ran across this crack. It was located at the rear door from a garage. There were no other visible cracks in the garage floor slab or foundation wall. Any ideas on what the caused it? What would be your recommendation? Thanks John Click to Enlarge 47.61 KB
  5. I have been researching this and is appears the tubing is color coded like most pex tubing and was produced by IPEX and has Kitec printed on the tubing. John
  6. Just a note to finish this thread. I installed a PRV which solved the problem. John
  7. I just ran across this article and it is a must read for all home inspectors. http://hubpages.com/hub/kitec-failed-fi ... -time-bomb Cheers! John
  8. I have an answer, not sure if it is accurate but it is entertaining. After making a half dozen phone calls to different people at Seattle Public Utilities it spoke with one of their plumbing inspectors. I am not sure what they inspect because they are not code inspectors. She informed me that it was in fact the expansion tank pushing water back and forth through the meter as the line pressure fluctuates. They are aware of the problem and told me to remove the expansion tank. She said "I don't understand why everyone installs these on their hot water systems because they are not needed" I felt
  9. Scott, I don't know whether the tempering valve is in relation to the expansion tank. I will give that a look next time I am at the house. John
  10. I new the pressure was on the high side and I am planning on installing a pressure regulator. Terry, I have tried shutting off every angle stop and valve and that is what led me to the hot water system and the expansion tank. Removing the expansion tank then turning the water back on is the only thing that stops the meter. Why this works has left both me and the plumber scratching our heads. John
  11. Terry, I did check the water pressure at it was 82 psi so marginally high. The thing I can't figure out is if I remove the expansion tank and put a pipe plug in the fitting and turn the water back on the meter does not turn. As soon as I put he expansion tank back on the meter starts turning. John
  12. The pressure relief line is visible and I have checked it several times and it has always been dry. It discharges over an area of beauty bark and there are no signs it has been discharging water. One thing I didn't mention is the water heater is turned off because the house is vacant. John
  13. No pressure reducing valve. Yes it does have a tempering valve at the water heater. John
  14. I have been a home inspector for 8 years but this one has me stumped. I have searched the web and found nothing so I though I would try here. I own a new house which is vacant and for sale. I just received a water bill that showed I was using 40 gallons per day. I checked the meter and sure enough it shows water is flowing at the rate of about 1.5 gal. per hour. The meter does not register a constant flow but stop and starts in 10 second intervals. I went around the house shutting valves off until I was able to isolate the problem to the hot water system. When I shut the supply valve
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