Jump to content

leeboy

Members
  • Content Count

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About leeboy

  • Rank
    New Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Canada
  • Occupation
    Contractor/inspector
  1. Thats from a detached fan pushing moisture against the sheathing. The only way to see if it is still good is to probe it. Id recommend caulking the crap out of the punctures if those fasteners went thought towards the roof. You can paint on some sort of epoxy product to stop the decay. Im sure someone will recommend one to you from this site. Should have been easily noticed from 10 ft away.
  2. Hot water restricter inside the valve needs to be set.
  3. Bring a local renovator over and get some hands on experience working for you,what the hell call 3 different guys. Its too hard for us to recommend the easiest fix from a computer 100s of miles away from your house. Im sure a clever renovation carpenter could sort you out. After all they fix stuff like this all day long. Im not going to say it will be cheap but some options will be available. In the mean time remove the last decking board closest to the house to allow it to drain.
  4. Give some thought to a solid surface deck after the repair has been done. Adding the necessary flashings. I once pushed a deck away from a house using car jacks put in the missing drip flashings and push it back. It was a days work.
  5. Everything here is pex too, just havnt seen or had plumbers use red or blue yet. I have seen missed crimps sneak up and flood one of my jobs though
  6. Funny I cant say I have ever seen 3/4'' line on a hot water supply line. red and blue are pex as well? not sure on that one.
  7. does anyone have any feed back on these? I dont see them much./Users/apple/Downloads/IMG-20120303-00435.jpg Click to Enlarge 35.44 KB
  8. How is it different that a concrete pier and a 6x6 post for example, The grain is horizontal as oppose to vertical which may mean more shrinkage, besides that if it has a footing, I dont see a problem with it. It is also carrying a load through an I joist close the wall.
  9. You may try a power vent although they can be problematic in winters, A power vent may work if it's a lack of venting air flow and make it worse if its air leakage, by drawing more air up through wall cavities etc
  10. -28 oC or colder - keep humidity below 15% -23 to -27 oC - keep humidity below 20% -17 to -23 oC - keep humidity below 25% -12 to -16 oC - keep humidity below 30% -6 to -11 oC - keep humidity below 35% +4 to -5 oC - keep humidity below 40% found this online ^ air leakage? or moisture issue?
  11. What year is the home? Any renovations done? is that an addition? Just to clarify we looking at the attic of the lower roof and it is unvented where it runs in the addition (on the right hand side of the lower roof) Watch carefully where the snow melts odd your house first. It is possible there is a lot of heat coming up the wall cavity and finding its way to the attic , condensing on the cold surface and freezing. I have seen it where the main power runs into a home these spots are hard to seal up, standing from the road you can see less snow here from the melting.
  12. If there was new roof venting added when the roof was done/re done (by roofers) It's not likely that they added soffit venting and pulled the insulation back to allow it to work. I have seen this before. And of course adding moisture from bathrooms is always a good idea. Good find.
  13. I usually see torch on, I wasn't worried about the material, more the design. from the pics there doesn't seem to be evidence of the staples in the field be too short just the exposed staples from the ridge cap/s. like Bill said
  14. The 3rd pic gives me the willies! I hope you checked it carefully and recommended they keep an eye on it. watch for ice damming if you in a cold climate. some architects idea of a good time!!!!!
×
×
  • Create New...