Tim H

I have done one Level 1 site visit. The firm that contracted me did all the document research etc., and I had a list of questions for the interview(s). Pretty straightforward photo-documentation for the most part. I have a pretty extensive manufacturing background, so the nomenclature and environmental features were familiar to me. Pretty profitable, and I would welcome the opportunity to do more. Tim

I suppose it would depend on the inspector. Personally, I don't like checklists, and I don't do on-site reporting. My reasons are many, but primarily I don't want to be in a hurry, and I don't want someone standing over me while I work. I look at lots of reports on line, and I have seen but a few that were prepared on site that wouldn't embarrass me. To try to sell one as being superior without considering WHO is preparing it is folly, IMO. That being said, I have never heard of anyone taking 3-10 days to get a report to a client. That's just puffery, and would raise red flags with me if I were choosing an inspector. Tim

You are correct. The house was built by the sellers grandfather, who was a farmer and barn builder. You may have noticed that the type of bricks aren't consistent throughout either. Also very unusual for a house of this age, in this area, was the poured concrete foundation walls and piers (combination basement/crawlspace). Some of the issues with the soldiers were caused by the failed lintel at the basement window well underneath. Some, not all. Tim

I went back to find more photos and I found this pic of what was originally an exterior wall (before they closed in the porch) that still had the black mortar. Click to Enlarge 53.86 KB Here is a pic of the exterior showing the tan mortar (and a really bad repair job under the window). Click to Enlarge 56.08 KB And another of the mortar around a portland cement repair at a lintel. Click to Enlarge 45.25 KB I didn't think that the entire house had been repointed because the tan layer was so thin in the places that I checked, but after looking again, I think you may be right. Thanks to all. Tim

This house was built in 1925. The lime mortar has a light brown-tan color that is what I am used to seeing around here. When I flaked a little away, the mortar underneath is dark, almost black. It was like this all over, not just next to the portland cement covered rowlock sill. Except for the blown lintels and typically horrible portland cement repairs/repointing, the walls were in pretty good shape. Click to Enlarge 56.99 KB Any idea what is going on? Thanks, Tim

Not a snowballs chance in hell. If I am expending all of my concentration on staying alive/adhered to the roof, I would have just as good a chance of missing something right in front of me as I would from the eaves. A mans gotta know his limitations. Tim

Thanks a bunch, Ezra. Tim

Are you saying that manufacturers don't intend for shingles to be installed in valleys? The quantity of water is no different. I think that there is a major difference between water flowing down a valley, and the same volume of water being concentrated and then dropped (accelerated) several inches onto a much smaller area. The physics are not nearly the same, it seems to me. Tim

Maybe it's not the water causing it, but from debris flowing out of the gutter slowly grinding away at the shingles?? I really don't know. I think you may be on to something. All I know for sure is that I commonly see accelerated wear in these areas. I hardly ever see moss associated with the condition. If it isn't the water itself, it could be debris and granules that wash off the field shingles, abrading the shingles on the lower roof. Tim

1st-If you are talking E&0, a lot. 2K+ for the first year, but absent any claims it will settle down over time. 2nd-Lots of good discussion on this topic over the years. Do a forum search and soak it up. Tim

Anyone know the purpose of this bit of framing? It's in the attic of a one story bungalow, built in 1900. The lumber has the same dimension and patina as the original framing lumber. It is located over the front entry hall. I was thinking that it could be a support for a ceiling fan and motor, but that is just a guess. Click to Enlarge 48.24 KB Thanks, Tim

Pretty interesting stuff. http://www.youtube.com/googlechrome For some reason, the link doesnt open the seminar anymore (maybe it hasnt been arcived), but it was the roll out seminar for the chrome notebook. I'll fix the link if I can find it. Sorry about that. Tim

The mechanical damper for dryer exhaust is intended to let air out, but not in. That would not work for a make-up air intake on the return. Something does not make sense. Exactly. My original question was not very clear. There is what looks like a normal backdraft damper type vent hood at the roof. Looking into the return from the filter slot, I could not see any damper or conductors. I have seen a pretty good handful of these unvented attic-Icynene insulated designs, and have never seen this. This was a warranty inspection, and the homeowner had the HVAC contractor coming in to do an annual inspection anyway. The homeowner is going to ask for an explanation, and if/when I hear the explanation, I will share it here. The picture shows the vent hoods for the two heat pump ducts and the kitchen fan duct. They are identical. Download Attachment: 11-11-10 072.jpg 45.48 KB Thanks, Tim

Yeah, I guess it would be a return register in function. Should have just said register. No motorized damper or timer that I could see. Just a mechanical damper on the roof vent-the same type used for a roof surface dryer exhaust. It (the register) would be drawing make-up air from the attic, but it was closed. If it is drawing make up air from 2" - 3" above the roof cover, it is introducing 130 degree plus air into the system in the summer. That can't be the best way to go about supplying make-up air, can it? Thanks for the help, Guys. Tim

This house is one year old, unvented attic with Icynene applied to the sheathing and roof framing, and covering up the soffit vents. What is different about this from the other unvented attic/Icynene applications that I have seen, are jumper ducts from the return side of the heat pumps, going to dampered roof vents. The 4 ton unit also has a supply register installed in the ductboard return (the 1.5 ton unit does not have a register). Any ideas what is going on? Should the supply register be opened, closed, or removed (or changed seasonally)? Download Attachment: 11-11-10 065.jpg 49.99 KB Download Attachment: 11-11-10 067.jpg 46.57 KB Thanks Tim